Hello all!

Regarding my build, a 2016 Fuji Touring overhaul/respec: I now have a complete bike, minus the shifters I’m waiting on (some super-sweet Gevenalle CX shifters). I have converted the rear to 10 sp. with An m592 RD. I lined everything up initially, and all looks good in compatible without a doubt.

Now, according to The Late, Great, Sheldon Brown, and my very careful calculations, I should have no problem running a 10 speed chain on this 9x3 crank With its 9x3 FD.

There seems not to be a whole wealth of information on this subject, so it is quite nerve racking. Here’s my thought process.

Given that the FD is operated by friction shifter, I foresee no problem with chainring spacing and indexing.

the chainline will remain the same so no problem there. And given the identical cassette width between 9 and 10sp, no foreseeable issues with chainrub are present (especially given the ability to trim to my heart’s content).

10 sp chains have the same inner width, and length (roller to roller), so the chainring will operate the chain and seat correctly.

the derailleur, being that it will manually move the chain from ring to ring and trims to my will, will also not be a problem.

i also don’t imagine the pickup ramps to be designed much different between 9/10 speed, being that the 2 chains have only a fractional difference in design (being only the outer width of the chain).

i am fairly confident that this will work exceptionally well. The problem is that the ONLY confidence-inducing information I’ve got on this very specific subject beside my own common sense is from Sheldon Brown (which is best case scenario, IMO). However, in scouring the forums, I’ve found very little. Those threads I’ve found which talk about it are very vague.

Some say it doesn’t work. Then again, none of them mentioned weather they were using indexed shifters. Being that (obviously) it didn’t work, I have a feeling that their problem was that they are using Indexed shifters to attempt this. In this case, why would I even bother batting an eye to those threads. Chainring/indexed spacing is OBVIOUSLY different between 9 and 10 sp cranks/Front mechs.

Can someone please confirm that I can use a 10sp chain on a 9sp triple crank with friction shifting and a 9sp triple FD?

thank you!

havent a clue but have wondered the same myself. Ive never gotten around to trying out changing my 9 spd gevenalle bike to 10 spd even though I have some 10 spd microshift thumb shifters kicking around.
In the times Ive made half hearted attempts to get proper info, it seems to me that people have gone to 10 with 9 spd cranksets with no issues, but good luck finding some reliable examples.

the fd wont be a problem, no reason for it to be, given the friction aspect especially.

get back here if and when you find confirming info on the 9 spd crnaks with 10 chains

Almost never a problem, chain rings don't know what "speed" they are (within limitations of course). For what little it's worth, my own personal touring bike is set up with a 10 speed chain indexed to an older "9" speed triple.

i absolutely will. Just waiting on the mail. I don’t know if you’ve seen Sheldon Browns speed compatibility article (I’m guessing you have), but I believe that it’s explained quite properly and there is no reason it shouldn’t work.

when I am done (likely the beginning of June I’ll have the shifters set up. I will very certainly confirm for you “yay or nay” when I finish. That way perhaps you can make your conversation with just a bit more confidence, a cassette, a chain, and elbow grease, because that is all it would take!

By the way, great choice with the Gevenalles. How do you like them? I’m anxious to try. I had the 9 sp M.S. bar ends and Tektro levers on this thing stock, but love that they are together with these. Super slick, and different.

Stay tuned for valuable, reliable confirmation. What kind of bike would you be converting and what parts are your DT comprised of?

This bike

Untitled by Stuart Black, on Flickr

is running a 10 speed cassette, 10 speed rear derailer and a 10 speed chain. The crank is a Race Face Turbine with a 94/58 BCD (allows for an easy 20 tooth inner). I'm reasonably certain that the crank is a 9 speed but it may even be an 8. No chain issues.

thanks robow, you've probably mentioned this in the past, and it just didnt stick in ye ol brain.
I have switched out a 9 speed 30t for an old old 28t I had from the 7 speed days, and it was fine.

Ive been using them for about three years now. Found them to be completely intuitive from the get go, and work as I thought they would compared to bar ends, which I wasnt keen on using.
I did however change the orientation position of the fd lever so that straight down its the mid ring, canted out to the left is the granny, and and canted out to the right is the big ring. This is a much more user friendly setup than the stock one, which they may have changed, I did write to them to tell them I thought their stock position wasnt great--but maybe thats because it works well for a double, I dont know.
It was a real bugger loosening the bolt to do this, i had to get a mechanic I trust do it as I was afraid to bread the damn thing. He very carefully heated the bolt without melting anything and all was well after.

All in all, I really like them. Setting up proper tension on the small bolt that determines shifting tension of the actual levers can be tricky. Well, not tricky, but start loose and gradually tighten, I over tightened it a bit and it was hard shifting. My rd doesnt have a barrel adjuster, so i had to install one in line up near the headtube. My first one was not good and kept slipping, and I didnt realize this, so messed around with actual shifter lever tension too much before realizing i had to change the barrel adjuster, and got a good inline one. Fine after that.

in photo, this is small ring position of fd. large ring would be opposite side.

oh, and the "one day maybe do it" change to 10 spd is this same bike.
I took some 10 spd MS shifters off a bike and replaced them with trigger shifters, and they probably would just go onto my Gevenalles.....but I never tried it yet--and a bit apprehensive knowing that I would have to loosen the right hand shifter this time, and it might be as hard to get off as the left one was three years ago....plus Im not sure if my 9 spd era XTR rd would shift properly with the ten speed...

basically I just put off doing it, and still havent .

this is great! With the bar ends, obviously I had the same gripe. With these, Knowing intuitively what position each chainring is at is Quite annoying. Not a huge problem, but I would have to put more focus on front shifting when doing so. I kid you not, I actually got in to a pretty gnarly accident attributed to that setup (face through the back glass of a parked Honda Accord). But of course, this was mostly user error, as I looked down to examine the FD’s position in truly amateur fashion. So I think your idea is great, to set a more intuitive position so that this risk is avoided. I am sure that millions of people use these without incident, but in that moment, I would have benefited from not using my eyes and having a shift position that takes away guesswork.

id also argue that being able to trim manually has attributed to a smoother, more quiet ride. Tradeoffs, man!

i like your Cockpit, by the way. I bet the narrow hoods feel nice with the thicker bartape. I also like the idea of supplemental levers. It’s perfect and I may copy you on this.

bar end shifters are also positional intuitive without having to look down, so I wish you the best with getting more comfortable riding and shifting if you are new to biking.
re thick bar tape, Im not sold on it, have had it for a while, but will probably just go back to not so thick, but with a good quality bar tape.

but you just gotta try it and live with things for a while to really get an idea.

yeah I need to get the feel a little more, because I am so used to STI levers. That accident happened within my first 2 months of owning the bike (First time with barend shifters). Lesson learned haha!

yeah I quite prefer bartape of mid-thickness. But you’re right, it’s good to try something new and live with it for a while. Life is no fun without the variety.

stay tuned, I’ll post a picture once the thing is finished. But first, I’ll give you a little sneak peek. The saddle is gonna be replaced (same color), and I’ll be putting a nice new pair of schwalbe marathon GGs on there too!

Freshly powder coated

thats double bartape on my bike, why its so thick, but Im not so keen on it because when I climb a steep hill I put my hands on the tops, and the double tape is a bit too thick.
Also, the outer tape is good as its surface is tough, but its not as cushy as other bar tape. There seems to be a huge range of feel of bar tape types, and prices, some are super expensive, which I would never buy, but I think I'll just try a single layer of some I have a new package of, and not put it on too tight, as this helps with a bit more cush.

have fun building

ps, the gevenalles come with really very little setup info, or mine did 3 years ago, so they do kinda make you figure stuff out, or i guess i woiuld say, they aim their product at people they figure know how to do hands on mechanic work.
It was a drag our dollar was and is, so low, compared to the yank dollar, so for me they cost a good 35% more--but dont regret them, they are a neat product. Not as fast and fun as sti's, but a pretty good compromise for touring and nice and simple.

dont forget, if yoiur rd doesnt have a barrel adjuster, I cant see it in photo, then make sure you get a good one to put in somewhere.

yes! That’s what I had in mind. Originally I wanted STIs, but the issue Front derailleur compatibility seemed abysmal, especially if I were to want an upgrade in the future: easily achieved with the Gevenalles.

as for the barrels, I have 2 on the down tube (one FD cable barrel and one rear)

I’m pretty handy with mechanical work so, no instructions: no problem. However, I am a stickler for following instructions obsessively and do enjoy reading some good ol’ technical literature (the only reading I do). So a nice set of instructions would be a plus for me.

Love the color, really took that frame up a notch. Well done !

yes! It’s a rare one actually. I don’t know if you’re familiar with mission bicycle, but they are one of San Francisco’s main custom bike shops.

https://www.missionbicycle.com/home

Anyway, I was at our local powder coat shop (which happens to finish all of mission bicycles frames) picking out colors. He showed me the color and said that the owner of MB had one of his personal frames in this color, and everyone drooled over it when they saw it in person.

if you want that color, it can definitely be bought online, it’s called “electric blue sparkle”. If you happen to ever get this color, I pretty much guarantee you’ll be the only one in your area who has it,

dude knew exactly what I was going for, instantly! Haha

will you be getting them only later or is it a soon to come thing? You'll have to see how you find the hood shape, I was used to the fatter shape of my shimano tiagra sti's, so the narrower shape was so so, but honestly, over time they are fine, and I really never think about their shape anymore.

Not sure if I'll be able to help if you have any installation questions, but do ask if you have any.

ahh! Worthwhile consideration! I’m waiting on them to be machined then sent to me. However, the same Tektro brakes and same Microshift barend shifters came stock on the bike. I love the more narrow hood of the Tektro lever.