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Converting Whiskey Fork to Rack Mounting Fork

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Old 10-02-25 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN
A few notes on a Carradice bag:
.
  1. They used to be expensive, and that was before tariffs. Now if you can find someone in UK to ship one to you, probably even more expensive.
  2. I do not like the way the bag hits my legs as I pedal, I used a stem with appropriate shim on the seatpost and a wood dowel (sprayed black) to push the bag further back, see photo below.
  3. I tried a piece of cardboard inside the bag to give it more structure, worked great, so I later replaced that with a piece of coroplast to be more permanent if it gets wet. I put several creases in it. The coroplast is not attached to the bag, just in it loose, see photo, disregard the banana case.





With the Coroplast above, the bag has plenty of structure, does not sag like a wet pillow case.

The bag shown above is a Carradice Pendle, too small for bike touring. Photos below show a Nelson Long Flap. In this case the bag was supported from the bottom with the two panniers.







The only thing that I do not like about the Carradice bag is that it is the opposite of quick release, it takes several minutes to attach it and several minutes to detach it every day.

Someone on this forum has done extremely light weight touring with a large Carradice bag, his name on this forum is Nun. With a search you might find some of his past posts. I just did a quick search, here is one post:
Who here likes Carradice bags?

And another:
Touring with a Saddlebag Instead of Panniers?
Thank you for the good reading. BTW I usually carry a small backpack in my bags somewhere just in case I need to carry groceries from the store to the campground. Its so small it can fit under my front packet of my shirt (and its waterproof).
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Old 10-03-25 | 12:11 AM
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You can also use a Carradice Bag on a Rack in front, a frame bag, and a saddle bag, they come in plenty of sizes.

Here on this setup there is all in, tent, all sleeping stuff needed, all cooking stuff needed. All warm clothing needed.





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Old 10-03-25 | 05:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Ridefreemc
I'm running 40mm wide, so maybe just a little better. I'm not sure how to work that calculator, as I've seen that before. However, I'd guess that the 23 gear inches you cite would be maybe 22. Would I like a little lower, yes just in case.

I'm sorting out what I'd like the bike to look like and how I want it to feel while riding. Ortlieb Sport Packers look appealing, as does a Carradice style seat bag. I've had a Dill Pickle in the past, but that particular one needed a little more support (it got a bit too loose for my tastes).

I know its a contradiction from what I wrote earlier, but I'm even looking at a setup for large saddle bag, large bag in front (resting on a small front rack), and a frame bag like you mentioned. Maybe front low riders and saddle bag. The weight is a bit higher with the non low-rider setup, but I like the way the bike feels with the weight towards the center-line. Panniers are nice and low, but when I stand to pedal (up steeps for example) I don't have the same feel/rhythm that I like while riding a bicycle. Have you noticed that?

I'm having fun with it though. We are fortunate to have so many options. Also, I'm happy that I've tested so much and found that I'm very happy with less. I was looking at my 16 pound kit played out one morning in the Rockies and saw a couple of things I could do without. After getting caught in a hail and rain storm at 11,000 feet though, I thought an emergency set of warm clothes would be smart. I enjoy traveling less when I have more to organize and keep track of. Got back early August from a week in the north Georgia mountains, and if it weren't for multiple saws and support gear (I hike and volunteer to clear trails for the TNGA), I'd have only one daypack full of my things (drove my Jeep to the area).

BTW - The guy I'm working with at Spork Forks is excellent - very helpful. I have a couple of suggestions for their website, as the explanations of their products are hard to follow. However, when I speak to them, all is clear though.
an appropriate low gear depends on your bike+load total weight, what sort of terrain/steepness/long climbs are realistic to encounter, and to a smaller extent imo your age, fitness etc . Im in my early 60s and even in my mid 20s I realized that having a low gear of about 20 g.i. works best, and easier on my knees, easier on knee and leg muscles, so stronger overall in a day if you can downshift and not force your body a bit too much---this is the still ongoing fallacy in bike gearing, being able to put less torque into your knees and leg muscles just means it takes less out of you in the long run, so fresher over the day. When you don't need to be in the lowest gear, you shift up, its that easy.
There are days where we are more tired, didnt sleep well, or feeling sick a bit, starting a cold, or had tummy issues -- or whatever, so having a low gear that you dont use that often is fine. As long as you can comfortably pedal up to about 30 or 40kph 20-25mph for a period if you have a tailwind, which really doesnt happen that often anyway.
Going fast downhill is pretty much always going to be way past your gearing anyway. If the conditions are safe enough, I love blasting down hills and around corners, but all the times I get to 70, 80+ kph, 50mph+ I am way past my gearing so its a moot point also.

re panniers, look at the weights of empty panniers and you'll see how some are much lighter than others, its worth looking at this. The ortlieb bikepacking 25L rears are lighter , also ortlieb "Plus" versions of all their panniers uses a lighter fabric, I like these and used plus ones for about 30 years.
But then specific bikepacking small panniers are much lighter also, but probably dont have the "easy on, easy off" aspect of regular panniers.
I use a very light set of Arkels, 25L , called Dry-Lites, only about a pound for the set, BUT arent as tough as regular panniers and go on with velcro and a traditional bungee and hook system--but are super solid on rough single track--BUT are finicky putting on and off.
Compromises as always in life.

as you say, lots of options, for a cross country trip, you may appreciate a bit more volume , or not....but you have fun options.


Last edited by djb; 10-03-25 at 05:42 AM.
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Old 10-03-25 | 10:32 AM
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"""an appropriate low gear depends on your bike+load total weight, what sort of terrain/steepness/long climbs are realistic to encounter, and to a smaller extent imo your age, fitness etc ."""

of course its nice to have a very low gear when cycling with weight, no doubt about that. at home with any weight on the bike I use then same low gears I use with a well loaded bike, and I love the easy going. the really big roll on the back panniers of your last image looks really cool.



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Old 10-03-25 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by djb
...
Brifters would not work with that drybag you have on your handlebars, more and more people are touring on brifters. I do not recall the brand name of the shifters you use, but they must have very short levers to work with that dry bag. I can't quite make out the shift levers in the photo.

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Old 10-03-25 | 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by str
"""an appropriate low gear depends on your bike+load total weight, what sort of terrain/steepness/long climbs are realistic to encounter, and to a smaller extent imo your age, fitness etc ."""

of course its nice to have a very low gear when cycling with weight, no doubt about that. at home with any weight on the bike I use then same low gears I use with a well loaded bike, and I love the easy going. the really big roll on the back panniers of your last image looks really cool.
Hi there senor
You will laugh, when I did that trip in Scotland ,I borrowed the red dry bag just to have some spare space and to avoid putting heavier stuff in those thin rear panniers, so with all rough riding, they wouldn't get a hole worn in them.
The first day, the bottom of the dry bag came apart, so I had to improvise with a plastic bag to close the end so in the regular Scottish rain, it wouldn't get wet inside.
A frame bag would have been best to put the heavier stuff in like my pump, repair stuff, stove etc

I still like the idea of having a dry bag for overflow food shopping, weighs very little and with voile straps, easy to securely put on top of each.

It all worked out, and the setup was fine on a lot of rough single and double track. The panniers work well, but better to just have softer stuff like clothes, rain gear.
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Old 10-03-25 | 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by str
You can also use a Carradice Bag on a Rack in front, a frame bag, and a saddle bag, they come in plenty of sizes.

Here on this setup there is all in, tent, all sleeping stuff needed, all cooking stuff needed. All warm clothing needed.


Agreed and that looks like a good way to go (the Carradice bags front and rear). I emailed them yesterday to confirm the Super C Audax for the front. Would be thinking maybe the Super C (23L) off the back (with support from their QR system). Any suggestions you all have on attaching the front using a rack? Maybe the Soma demi-porteur. I'd rather not attach to the handlebars. Would I need a decaleur receiver for a Randonneur-style handlebar bag or a tombstone loop for that bag?

I still have thoughts on using the Tubus Duo for the front. Got some time to think about it.

And...I just ordered the Rodeo Spork 3.2 fork. Again, excellent service. With this fork I can attach a rack, fenders, or the low rider rack (and fenders) My current Whisky forks allow none (I had fenders, but they were a little odd to attach).
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Old 10-03-25 | 04:58 PM
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I've ridden a lot with low rider panniers on a tubus Tara front rack.
Low weight means very nice handling around corners, and you just get used to the ride feel with them.
For a paved trip, or regular dirt roads, it's fine.

So many options, I'd recommend figuring out what volume you really need and then you'll have a better idea of options you'd like to consider.
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Old 10-03-25 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by djb
I've ridden a lot with low rider panniers on a tubus Tara front rack.
Low weight means very nice handling around corners, and you just get used to the ride feel with them.
For a paved trip, or regular dirt roads, it's fine.

So many options, I'd recommend figuring out what volume you really need and then you'll have a better idea of options you'd like to consider.
Yes, It is getting slightly cooler here so I can break out the gear and do a couple of S24Os using my current pannier and rear rack setup. Nothing like a trial run to figure out what you knew at one time, but seemed to have forgotten
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Old 10-03-25 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Ridefreemc
Yes, It is getting slightly cooler here so I can break out the gear and do a couple of S24Os using my current pannier and rear rack setup. Nothing like a trial run to figure out what you knew at one time, but seemed to have forgotten
I'm always surprised how much I forget what works, although I now tend to take clear photos of what I have in each bag from different times of the year, a simple visual reminder of a packing list.
I used to take notes of what I used, what I didn't use, what I would have liked to have etc etc.
Handy to dial in stuff, but again, you have this experience from hiking.
Theres always some improvising with different time of year or specific regions countries, but I've found most of the core stuff remains the same year to year.

Oh, and you can always try certain bags or racks, and if you aren't crazy them, it's pretty easy to resell stuff. I've bought used frame bags and stuff before.
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Old 10-04-25 | 01:24 AM
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Originally Posted by djb
Hi there senor
You will laugh, when I did that trip in Scotland ,I borrowed the red dry bag just to have some spare space and to avoid putting heavier stuff in those thin rear panniers, so with all rough riding, they wouldn't get a hole worn in them.
The first day, the bottom of the dry bag came apart, so I had to improvise with a plastic bag to close the end so in the regular Scottish rain, it wouldn't get wet inside.
A frame bag would have been best to put the heavier stuff in like my pump, repair stuff, stove etc

I still like the idea of having a dry bag for overflow food shopping, weighs very little and with voile straps, easy to securely put on top of each.

It all worked out, and the setup was fine on a lot of rough single and double track. The panniers work well, but better to just have softer stuff like clothes, rain gear.
thats a good idea having an extra dry bag, never thought about it. I carry one of these ridiculous thin back packs in case i have to carry food for some hours.
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Old 10-04-25 | 01:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Ridefreemc
Agreed and that looks like a good way to go (the Carradice bags front and rear). I emailed them yesterday to confirm the Super C Audax for the front. Would be thinking maybe the Super C (23L) off the back (with support from their QR system). Any suggestions you all have on attaching the front using a rack? Maybe the Soma demi-porteur. I'd rather not attach to the handlebars. Would I need a decaleur receiver for a Randonneur-style handlebar bag or a tombstone loop for that bag?

I still have thoughts on using the Tubus Duo for the front. Got some time to think about it.

And...I just ordered the Rodeo Spork 3.2 fork. Again, excellent service. With this fork I can attach a rack, fenders, or the low rider rack (and fenders) My current Whisky forks allow none (I had fenders, but they were a little odd to attach).
I use the Nitto M18 on that bike, the Carradice Nelson Longflap rests fine on that rack, look at your handle bar width... my wife's Carradice is very small, I still had to change her handle bar to 44mm. Also the Tubus Duo when my wife comes with me, works fine. At the down part of the fork I place some 2-3mm rubber between the fork leg and the Duo, the Duo fixing point touches the fork there.

Has the Rodeo 3.2 already 3 eyelets, or 2? If 2 eyelets think about it .... the day you mount these fork leg cages 3 eyelets would be the easy way. My Rodeo is some years old and has only tow, so when I mount my King for cages I need to do a workaround with rubber and zip ties.

DUO and ORTLIEB GRAVEL Panniers





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Old 10-04-25 | 04:35 PM
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Str, I don't think I have mentioned this before, but your frame size and nearly level toptube is so handy to be able to have that partial frame bag, yet still have ample room for two regular water bottles.
I do like having a sloping toptube on rough terrain, but having a much bigger frame triangle is really nice.
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Old 10-04-25 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN
Brifters would not work with that drybag you have on your handlebars, more and more people are touring on brifters. I do not recall the brand name of the shifters you use, but they must have very short levers to work with that dry bag. I can't quite make out the shift levers in the photo.
Hi T, didnt see this message. Nope, they aint brifters, thems those oddball Gevenalle shifters, so the levers dont swing at all, they are just regular old brake levers.
But yes, makes things easier with baggage, to an extent.
I still do have to place the yellow drybag properly to not get in the way of the swing of the shift levers, and I have 46cm wide bars-- a lot of bikepacking bars are really wide nowadays, part for more wide control on sketchy surfaces, but with bonus of working well with brifters. The son of a friend put wide dropbars on his bike earlier this year, they were super wide, like 54cm or something.
Here are the shifters, easier to see, on narrower bars than now.

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Old 10-05-25 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by djb
Hi T, didnt see this message. Nope, they aint brifters, thems those oddball Gevenalle shifters, so the levers dont swing at all, they are just regular old brake levers.
But yes, makes things easier with baggage, to an extent.
I still do have to place the yellow drybag properly to not get in the way of the swing of the shift levers, and I have 46cm wide bars-- a lot of bikepacking bars are really wide nowadays, part for more wide control on sketchy surfaces, but with bonus of working well with brifters. The son of a friend put wide dropbars on his bike earlier this year, they were super wide, like 54cm or something.
Here are the shifters, easier to see, on narrower bars than now.
...
When I saw that dry bag, my first thought was how do you shift? I did not see bar end shifters on your bike. Then I remembered your type of shifters.

I use a fairly large handlebar bag. When I built up my rando bike, I was unsure how a Campy brifter would work on that bike, but it works just fine, below:



But if the bag was up higher, that side pocket could get in the way.
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Old 10-05-25 | 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN
When I saw that dry bag, my first thought was how do you shift? I did not see bar end shifters on your bike. Then I remembered your type of shifters.
I use a fairly large handlebar bag. When I built up my rando bike, I was unsure how a Campy brifter would work on that bike, but it works just fine, below:
But if the bag was up higher, that side pocket could get in the way.
a better photo to show how they work well enough with stuff in the handlebar harness, it keeps things low ish so not an issue when placing the drybag and stuff in a way not to be sticking up and out the sides where the shifters swing inwards.
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Old 10-06-25 | 05:28 AM
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Originally Posted by djb
a better photo to show how they work well enough with stuff in the handlebar harness, it keeps things low ish so not an issue when placing the drybag and stuff in a way not to be sticking up and out the sides where the shifters swing inwards.
...
Yeah, the bikepacking front bag harness systems put the weight and volume lower than the modern handlebar bags that use a quick release bracket.

Decades ago handlebar bags also hung lower when they hung from a steel rod support that cantilevered off of the handlebar.

You have seen photos of my usage of a second stem to lower the quick release bracket for my handlebar bag, so I won't bother showing that again here.

I use bar end shifters on my touring bikes, except the Rohloff bike. But that Rohloff shifter is mounted on the end of the handlebar (with a Hubbub adapter) too, so I suppose you could call that Rohloff shifter a bar end shifter.

I am not sure why the drop bars on bikebacking bikes initially were angled out more, as that was not a big aero advantage. But I can see how the extra width on those bars is needed for bikepacking handlebar harnesses, especially when brifters are used.

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Old 10-06-25 | 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN
I am not sure why the drop bars on bikebacking bikes initially were angled out more, as that was not a big aero advantage. But I can see how the extra width on those bars is needed for bikepacking handlebar harnesses, especially when brifters are used.
being in the wider drops is nice on rougher or technical downhill sections, wider gives more steering control, or easier control with bumpy stuff going on.
The drop bars on my Troll have a moderate flare out, there were more flared out ones even back when I built that bike up in 2016, but I preferred a shallow flare for the majority of my riding.
Pretty much why mtb bars have gotten wider and wider over the decades. The 90s mtb were really narrow and folks figured out wider was better. Ive ridden both old and new and wider is nicer.
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Old 10-28-25 | 01:14 PM
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Okay it has taken some time to make progress, but here it is thus far. I purchased a Rodeo Labs Spork with the two holes for mounting racks (as opposed to the three holes), as it saved $100 and I don't see myself needing the three (I don't care for the little bottle holders and baby panniers). I had to have another caliper installed (another Sram), as the existing one did not line up. I could have run an adapter, but this new caliper fits better and looks/operates perfectly. I went to a 15mm thru axle and away from the quick release. I had Rodeo pre-install eyelets for connecting a rack or fenders down near the axle (as I will likely run fenders). The offset went from 43mm to 50mm and after two 25 mile rides I determine it is very nice. I cannot tell much difference in ride quality between the old vs. the new (still feels very stable).

The next step is to decide which front rack and bag/box setup. I'm edging towards a Velo Orange Flat Rack (a demi-portuer) and either a Rando handlebar bag (e.g., Velo Orange), or a bag from the likes of a Goldback from Bags by Bird. I like the Carradice bags, but I also like the XPAC material for a number of reasons.

Related - looking at another bag off the rear seat and like the bigger ones like the one mentioned above from BxB. Also, looking at the Tailfin or the Relevate Designs Spinlock. However, these would not be a used or useful on a day to day ride vs. longer tour. The bag idea would be great for both long and day to day/around town usage.

Last edited by Ridefreemc; 10-28-25 at 01:17 PM.
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Old 10-28-25 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Ridefreemc
Okay it has taken some time to make progress, but here it is thus far. I purchased a Rodeo Labs Spork with the two holes for mounting racks (as opposed to the three holes), as it saved $100 and I don't see myself needing the three (I don't care for the little bottle holders and baby panniers). I had to have another caliper installed (another Sram), as the existing one did not line up. I could have run an adapter, but this new caliper fits better and looks/operates perfectly. I went to a 15mm thru axle and away from the quick release. I had Rodeo pre-install eyelets for connecting a rack or fenders down near the axle (as I will likely run fenders). The offset went from 43mm to 50mm and after two 25 mile rides I determine it is very nice. I cannot tell much difference in ride quality between the old vs. the new (still feels very stable).

The next step is to decide which front rack and bag/box setup. I'm edging towards a Velo Orange Flat Rack (a demi-portuer) and either a Rando handlebar bag (e.g., Velo Orange), or a bag from the likes of a Goldback from Bags by Bird. I like the Carradice bags, but I also like the XPAC material for a number of reasons.

Related - looking at another bag off the rear seat and like the bigger ones like the one mentioned above from BxB. Also, looking at the Tailfin or the Relevate Designs Spinlock. However, these would not be a used or useful on a day to day ride vs. longer tour. The bag idea would be great for both long and day to day/around town usage.
A lot of people on this forum like the Tubus Tara. It has a very small range for adjustment, in my mind too small, so if the horizontal bar is not horizontal it is hard to make adjustments. But it is a very strong rack. First post at this thread shows several photos of my bike, one photo (in a train station lobby) with the Tara on it without panniers so you can see the rack
Bike Tour near Lake Ontario and part of Erie Canal - June 2024.

I do not use a platform rack on the front for a big bag. I use a handlebar bag that has a very quick attachment method, so I can take the bag off and bring into stores and restaurants with me. I keep my valuables in the bag.

And I have enough steerer tube above my frame, that I have a second threadless stem mounted there with my handlebar bag bracket. Instead of writing up a description, here is a post I made a few years ago with some photos.
Racks/Bags and Interrupter Levers

The handlebar bags I have used are from a company that no longer makes them. But Ortlieb makes a handlebar bag that is pretty popular, you might consider one of those if you like the idea of a quick release bracket so you can take the bag with you when off of the bike.

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Old 10-28-25 | 06:15 PM
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Bikes: 2017 Kona TI, 2011 Mezzo D9, Gazelle Ultimate C380

I have a Tubus Duo now, but would like to go for a randonneur style rack bag.

Last edited by Ridefreemc; 10-28-25 at 06:19 PM.
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Old 10-29-25 | 02:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Ridefreemc
Okay it has taken some time to make progress, but here it is thus far. I purchased a Rodeo Labs Spork with the two holes for mounting racks (as opposed to the three holes), as it saved $100 and I don't see myself needing the three (I don't care for the little bottle holders and baby panniers). I had to have another caliper installed (another Sram), as the existing one did not line up. I could have run an adapter, but this new caliper fits better and looks/operates perfectly. I went to a 15mm thru axle and away from the quick release. I had Rodeo pre-install eyelets for connecting a rack or fenders down near the axle (as I will likely run fenders). The offset went from 43mm to 50mm and after two 25 mile rides I determine it is very nice. I cannot tell much difference in ride quality between the old vs. the new (still feels very stable).

The next step is to decide which front rack and bag/box setup. I'm edging towards a Velo Orange Flat Rack (a demi-portuer) and either a Rando handlebar bag (e.g., Velo Orange), or a bag from the likes of a Goldback from Bags by Bird. I like the Carradice bags, but I also like the XPAC material for a number of reasons.

Related - looking at another bag off the rear seat and like the bigger ones like the one mentioned above from BxB. Also, looking at the Tailfin or the Relevate Designs Spinlock. However, these would not be a used or useful on a day to day ride vs. longer tour. The bag idea would be great for both long and day to day/around town usage.
Nitto M18 and Bags by Bird or Carradice
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Old 03-10-26 | 05:29 PM
  #48  
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From: Western Florida

Bikes: 2017 Kona TI, 2011 Mezzo D9, Gazelle Ultimate C380

UPDATE

I went with Old Man Mountain's Pizza rack up front and I am carrying my "bedroom" (sleeping bag, air mattress, tent) and rain jacket on that - all about 10 pounds. For the rear I went with a lovely large Fabio's Chest, which is so well thought out. Tons of room and really versatile bag. It sits on my Carradice Expedition bag support. In that are my clothes, camp shoes, stove/cup, breakfast food and snacks, toiletries, and electronics - all under 10 pounds. Spare tube and tools are occupying the triangle area where the seat stay and seat tube meet and are secured on there with zip ties - out of the way, as I hope to never use them.

I swapped out my drop bars for my Jones Bars and I'm glad I did. I love the looks and feel of the drop bars, but on longer rides I have issues because I use only one hand position on the brake hoods 99% of the time. With the Jones Bars I'm shifting to about three or four positions regularly and can lower down on my elbows comfortably and with stability if needed for aero.

The bike with racks, bag and empty water bottles is 35 pounds. With all the above plus water I'm expecting to be at approximately 55-60 pounds.

Gear ratios are 34 tooth up front and an 11-speed (11-42) in the back. With the tires listed below I'm at a 22.6 low gear inch and close to 87 high.

Running Schwalbe Marathon Supreme 42mm wide tires with tubes. SKS Matt black plastic fenders are mounted too.

Cross country route maps arrived Saturday and downloaded TransAm and Western Express onto my Coros Dura.

So I will ride until my body, my mind, OR the road gives out
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Old 03-11-26 | 01:16 AM
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sounds interesting, pictures? ;)

my guess is that with 42mm tires you stay on tarmac? why 20-25 "pounds" aprox 11L of water? where will you tour?
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Old 03-12-26 | 05:14 AM
  #50  
djb
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Originally Posted by Ridefreemc
UPDATE

I went with Old Man Mountain's Pizza rack up front and I am carrying my "bedroom" (sleeping bag, air mattress, tent) and rain jacket on that - all about 10 pounds. For the rear I went with a lovely large Fabio's Chest, which is so well thought out. Tons of room and really versatile bag. It sits on my Carradice Expedition bag support. In that are my clothes, camp shoes, stove/cup, breakfast food and snacks, toiletries, and electronics - all under 10 pounds. Spare tube and tools are occupying the triangle area where the seat stay and seat tube meet and are secured on there with zip ties - out of the way, as I hope to never use them.

I swapped out my drop bars for my Jones Bars and I'm glad I did. I love the looks and feel of the drop bars, but on longer rides I have issues because I use only one hand position on the brake hoods 99% of the time. With the Jones Bars I'm shifting to about three or four positions regularly and can lower down on my elbows comfortably and with stability if needed for aero.

The bike with racks, bag and empty water bottles is 35 pounds. With all the above plus water I'm expecting to be at approximately 55-60 pounds.

Gear ratios are 34 tooth up front and an 11-speed (11-42) in the back. With the tires listed below I'm at a 22.6 low gear inch and close to 87 high.

Running Schwalbe Marathon Supreme 42mm wide tires with tubes. SKS Matt black plastic fenders are mounted too.

Cross country route maps arrived Saturday and downloaded TransAm and Western Express onto my Coros Dura.

So I will ride until my body, my mind, OR the road gives out
your total load weight is fine.
I ride drops and Jones bars and while I like both (in fact, got my Jones bar bike out for the first time just the other day, I live in real winter country and there were two unusually warm days recently and the road salt was washed away).
I dunno, I switch hand positions all the time with drops, one of the reasons I love them for hand comfort.
Show photos sometime.
Supremes are great tires, alas no more.
The 42mm ones ride very well and are quite light, Just be very aware of the thin sidewall so don't ride up against hard stuff.

Other than offroad riding, I don't really get the 1x thing, a double would be so much nicer and more versatile, and give you a wider gear range, lower low and higher high, and you could even put a closer cassette on back.
22.7 low gear is just so so, decades of touring has consistently proven that for me.
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