I was kind of in the same boat, and just went ahead and bought a new complete bike, and that's what I'd recommend. Or if you want to work on stuff, buy older bikes and work on them.

One problem is knowing if Widget A fits on Frame B and whether it is compatible with Widget C.

One problem is knowing if Widget A is really worth $100 more than Widget B when you haven't ever used either one of them.

Some of these people that are building a bike up already have half the stuff for it, so they don't have to go buy everything new at one whack like you or I would.

I agree. A biginner is best buying a complete bike and then if they want to change a few things they can do it incrementally. I'd never buy a complete bike now as all I cam see on stock bikes are all the things I'd like to change; tweek the gearing, install barcons, better brakes etc. But for just getting out there and riding that's not really necessary

As far as quality components go I'd still recommend paying a bit more for quality. I've had BBs a d freewheels fail on me after a few thousand miles

I went with buying a vintage touring bike for cheap, and spending the cash I saved to modify it quite a bit.

agreed.

I personally am more in favor of building up but that's just b/c it seems to be working out okay for me...

I started with a bike that I already had, stripped off the old components.... and I am in < 400 so far. Here is my list:

(2) Tires @ 26.xx each
2 tubes @ 7 each
Crankset @ 39.xx
Bottom Bracket @ 8.xx
Handlebars @ 14.99
Brake Levers @ 17.99
Cross brake levers @ 15.xx
Bar-end shifters @ 56
stem @ 17.xx
quill - threadless adapter @ 17.xx

total there (rounding up to the next dollar) is 257. Add in maybe another 30 or so for shipping. I still have to buy a seat & seatpost (unless I use the old ones...) and I am going to get a new rear wheel/cassette
I am using deraillers that I already had so of course that is a huge savings.

If you're smart, shop right, wait for good prices, maybe source some parts from friends, craigslist, etc you can get out relatively cheaply. Not to say the bike will be better than what you could have bought but maybe cheaper. If you have to buy a frame though, forget about it. Buy a bike on CL, make sure the frame is the right size, and (re)build it up, using what you can from the original bike. Do your homework, trust the knowledge of others for guidance, read everything you can find, talk to the guys at your LBS, and you will learn a lot, get a lot of satisfaction from your build, and have your bike set up the way you want it (for now) For me, it has been very rewarding. Will I end up changing things out down the road? Probably. Might I even end up buying a 520 or LHT down the road? It's possible. But all said and done, I can ride my bike for < $500 & I have learned a lot by the build.

"1,800 is starting to get pricey. I could shell it out if convinced there is a big jump in quality and a much better long term investment."

Often people just get different stuff, not a lot better quality. Some touring bikes may spec disc brakes or STI, eithe of which are big dollar items, and no improvement in quality. May improve function depending on your point of view. Wouldn't be on my world touring bike though. More randomly, people just put different parts they like better and may end up costing more because of the volume in which they were purchased. Sound unfair? I think it does happen because a lot of the time the "custom" builder is really focused on only a few parts. They have a particular brake or saddle in mind, and the rest of the stuff becomes a mad search of online sources and the parts barrel. When building for market, I think the better brands are a little more careful than that.

It doesn't have to be that way. An LHT frame online with some substantial parts purchased at the same time, would be around discoutned to about
390. Between 390, and 1800, you have a budget of 1410. One really ought to be able to put together something better within that budget. That said, for world touring or comuting, rugged, less stolen, more easily replaced gear rules. It would be worth getting the mid range of Shimano simpler stuff (lx). Boutique stuff doesn't really fit in. I would buy a Brooks, some really good bars, And otherwise gut the sturdiest stuff. Like I bought a bunch of Ritchey headsets with roller bearings cheap but tough. Pick and choose solid stuff.

Or this:

https://www.brucegordoncycles.blogspot.com/

What about the Nashbar X Cyclocross frame for touring? I know I may sound like a broken record for those who saw my other posts but I'm I'm still brainstorming the idea of touring. I can upgrade my current MTB commuter but I also would like a road bike for club rides, centuries, etc. so I could kill two birds with one stone if I build a touring bike: good for touring and club rides. But I like disc brakes So I was looking at Kona Sutra frame for $400 on eBay with fork. But the Nashbar frame is $120 and another $80 for fork - that's 1/2 the price! And it has fittings for rear rack, etc.

Adam

I bought a Nashbar Double-Butted Aluminum Touring Frame on sale for a little more than $100 along with their carbon cyclocross fork. They also offer a $50 CroMo fork with canti and disc mounts. I've been very happy with this combo, especially the ability to run a disc brake up front.

I have their $100 MTB frame and I like it so I may go for this one too )

A.

Whatever you decide, make sure the end results have 26" wheels for third world travel. The LHT is available with 26" wheels. IMO, the LHT is the biggest bang for the buck for a well thought out touring design if you're heading for the boonies.

Ha, you brought my thread back!! I definitely hope to go to the boonies

Actually, I decided on an LHT w/ 26" wheels and ordred it about 10 days ago. It came in yesterday and I picked it up today. My first ride today was awesome, Did some hills both up and down and flats, was great. my first really nice bike. So excited to get out and ride more

I don't know the word but my only complaint was my hands felt tense or tight mostly between my thumb and index finger. Wasn't a long ride and that is how it felt pretty much from the start. Is that normal when you are not use to drop bars? I did start the ride going up a hill (Topanga Canyon in the Santa Monica mountains if anybody is familiar), maybe I should use a different hand position when climbing? Or just need to ride more and it will become more comfortable hopefully

And Thank you to everybody for all their help, this forum has been fantastic

You have to learn to relax your hands while riding. Move them around, on the curves, hoods, and on the straight section near the stem.
What gearing did you get?

K. I will work on relaxing my hands more

Stock gearing except I changed the 26 to a 24

soo
48-36-24t
11-13-15-17-20-23-26-30-34t

Gives a low of 18.9 if I remember correctly. 18 something

Nice change

You all know what an LHT looks like but here she is.

I had two other questions:

1. I got the strada cadence spedometer and there is nowhere in the directions that tell you how to turn it off. Now it just shows the time. Is that how it is supposed to be or there is a way to turn it off? I'm almost hoping there isn't so I don't look too stupid lol

2. How come you are not supposed to put a kickstand on the bike

As I recall, there's no way to turn it off completely.


Road racers don't put kickstands on bikes because they add weight and aren't necessary; their only stop is at the finish line. Mountain bikers don't put kickstands on bikes because they reduce ground clearance and can catch on roots or rocks. If you want a kickstand, feel free to add one to your bike. Consider stealth options if you want a stand, but don't want everyone to know that you have one.

If you want to learn more about building up bikes, check out some of the co-op/community bike shops in Los Angeles. Volunteering there will give you experience and access to tools as well, so if you want to build up your next bike you'll have all the stuff you need.

I have a kickstand on my lht just be careful to not overtighten. I used some old bar tape underneath to lessen the stress on the stays. Surly has posted spew about this https://surlybikes.com/blog/spew/20_-...haul_truckers/

Thanks, exactly what I was looking for

That is a great idea Clasher, I'll have to see if I can made some time at some point

Once you start the climb up Topanga, when you hit the bridge and it gets steep for about a mile. it will tear you up if you have a heavy bike and you just started riding. Once you hit the store it is a nice mellow climb to the top, and there are lots of good loops. It's a beautiful ride too. PM me if you want info on the local canyons.