I have a '96 Cannondale T1000 with 700 wheels. The back wheel has a broken axle, and LBS said it isn't made anymore. The hub is a Sansin Gyro Master. The wheel is perfect other than the axle and I don't want to fork out the dough for a whole wheel. Any help would be appreciated.( something tells me cycommute will have an answer for me)

Wheels Manufacturing makes some replacement axels. Try another bike shop, or www.loosescrews.com.

try https://biketoolsetc.com/

I agree, try another shop. Unless there is something something specific to your hub, the axle should be standard. As long as you get the right length, with the correct threads to fit your cones, you should be fine. It's the cones (bearing races that screw on) that can sometimes be unique to the hub and the internal bearing race design. My LBS has a box of cast-off axles and has previously let me rummage through to find a QR axle that I used to convert a bolt-on rear wheel to QR.

I'd also consider just getting a new rear wheel. The hub you have isn't anything special, and an upgrade won't cost you all that much. Keep your eyes open for a good used set. I got a near-new set of wheels with Deore hubs and Mavic rims for $100.

Interesting - a friend of mine bought an old Canondale touring bike a couple weeks ago, it had a broken rear axle too. He got a replacement axle at the local bike shop. They even had the right length, I think his bike has 126mm spacing. As briwasson noted above, as long as the threading is the same, the old nuts and cones will fit. The axle that my friend got had a groove for washers that have an internal tab, the groove on the new axle however was not deep enough for the tabs.

Note that axles are usually ~10mm longer than the hub spacing. So, if you have a typical touring/MTB hub that's 135mm, you'll usually go with a 145mm axle. You can go a bit shorter, but not much. You want a little bit extra on each side to fit into the dropouts for alignment.

Again, the cones and nuts are the parts that may be specific to the way your hub's bearing races are made. Also, before taking it apart, note which spacers go on which side. It can be difficult to get things lined up again afterwards if you don't.

If the washers from your old axle have orientation tabs on them, as MSN Tourist notes, either get new washers or simply file down/off the tabs. They don't really serve much of a purpose.

first guess .. 10mm x 1 thread per mm pitch..
shimano uses that one, sansin may also..

if it breaks too often, consider a solid axle and nut fixing ,
the cones and washers should fit a solid axle..


Permanent cure , Phil Wood rear hub , freewheel type are fine .
(cassette are way up there in price)
I toured a couple years worth of loaded trips and they're still fine.
You will never break those axles.