opinions on wheel build please.
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 1
opinions on wheel build please.
ok promise i wont ask again but i was thinking of going with this wheel build for loaded touring just wonderingwhat you folks think
rims, 36 hole velocity deep section.
hubs ,white industries M15.
spokes.stainless steel double butted .
people seem to like the velocity rims ,the hubs are perfection and the spokes should last the journey
thanks all.
rims, 36 hole velocity deep section.
hubs ,white industries M15.
spokes.stainless steel double butted .
people seem to like the velocity rims ,the hubs are perfection and the spokes should last the journey
thanks all.
#2
Banned
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,115
Likes: 4
I have, I think the M16s, 1.5 sets. They are pretty and I talked myself into them for some foolish reason. I really think the Phils would be a better choice, they make a slew of touring specific hubs, and they are more roadside serviceable, though that is still a bit of a myth.
Velocity deep sections are a good choice relatively, they are what I built up my M16s with. Since you are going all top end, you might as well go extra spokes. It's a goodish idea for 700c, and probably unecesarry for 26", but 36 is a good idea, and probably not a lot easier to find replacements for than 40s, so why not double up and go with the 40s. With 26 you can always buy a new wheel if pressed, so my feeling is go with bombproof with the fallback being your easy to match wheel size. If the wheel should ever break, and you could get 250000 miles out of the spokes and hub, so why worry, just remove the rim, and tape the spokes and hub into a rebuildable bundle, and get a kmart wheel.
With the 700s 36 is fairly comon, but still probably 10-1 for 32s, which would be too light. So Again, I feel the good deal is to go overbuilt and keep it at that. 40 should be fine, and was once considered standard. If your wheel blows you probably can't get replacements for it outside of really major cities.
All that said, I think there are much cheaper options, if that is a factor for you.
Velocity deep sections are a good choice relatively, they are what I built up my M16s with. Since you are going all top end, you might as well go extra spokes. It's a goodish idea for 700c, and probably unecesarry for 26", but 36 is a good idea, and probably not a lot easier to find replacements for than 40s, so why not double up and go with the 40s. With 26 you can always buy a new wheel if pressed, so my feeling is go with bombproof with the fallback being your easy to match wheel size. If the wheel should ever break, and you could get 250000 miles out of the spokes and hub, so why worry, just remove the rim, and tape the spokes and hub into a rebuildable bundle, and get a kmart wheel.
With the 700s 36 is fairly comon, but still probably 10-1 for 32s, which would be too light. So Again, I feel the good deal is to go overbuilt and keep it at that. 40 should be fine, and was once considered standard. If your wheel blows you probably can't get replacements for it outside of really major cities.
All that said, I think there are much cheaper options, if that is a factor for you.
#3
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 1
thanks peterpan1 ,i did have a look at phil wood hubs but there way out of my price range,basically all i want is a really good set of wheels that wont let me down .i have a set of sun rhyno 36 hole xt m770 hubs on my thorn great wheels but man are they heavy.my new dream bike will have as light as possible gear should have said the new wheels will be 700cc.
#4
Banned
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 43,586
Likes: 1,380
From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
I have had excellent service from Phil's Freewheel hubs , nothing to go wrong, really , all else you buy another freewheel
7 speeds are plenty, you can shift them with friction levers , also pretty failure resistant .
still using 25 YO sun tour Bar end shifters.. All you have to learn is how to shift the gears, and when.
7 speeds are plenty, you can shift them with friction levers , also pretty failure resistant .
still using 25 YO sun tour Bar end shifters.. All you have to learn is how to shift the gears, and when.
#5
Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Japan
I`ve also been thinking about the MI5 hub for a touring wheelset but found that you can get the PW cassette touring hub for around the same price online. LicktonBikes for eg.
I also like the 7sp freewheel option but it`s hard to source good quality fw in touring range ie 32 or 34 large sprocket. As for 7sp cassettes, plenty of cheap 13-34 `K` cassettes still around. Looking at the amount of metal in 7sp teeth, they must last a lot longer than 9sp.
I also like the 7sp freewheel option but it`s hard to source good quality fw in touring range ie 32 or 34 large sprocket. As for 7sp cassettes, plenty of cheap 13-34 `K` cassettes still around. Looking at the amount of metal in 7sp teeth, they must last a lot longer than 9sp.
#7
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 1
doug64 i have no idea ,thing is I'm trying to sell my road bike to finance a new touring frame custom build from a guy called Paul Villiers in the UK ,so at the moment I'm just window shopping.but i reckon all will be standard nothing out of the ordinary.why did you ask.
edit.. i will be looking to get a 9 speed cassette (shimano)
if ever i get to build this bike i will be stripping my thorn and putting it on the new bike all xt gear.
edit.. i will be looking to get a 9 speed cassette (shimano)
if ever i get to build this bike i will be stripping my thorn and putting it on the new bike all xt gear.
Last edited by antokelly; 09-30-10 at 05:18 AM.
#8
Banned
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,115
Likes: 4
>I also like the 7sp freewheel option but it`s hard to source good quality fw in touring range ie 32 or 34 large sprocket.
.
It isn't as easy a cassettes, but the new IRDs are pretty good. I got a bunch of old shimanos from Nashbar in various alpine combos. Resupply on the road is another mater...
.
It isn't as easy a cassettes, but the new IRDs are pretty good. I got a bunch of old shimanos from Nashbar in various alpine combos. Resupply on the road is another mater...
#9
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 1
i asked velocity what rims they would recommend for loaded touring they said there most popular rims is Dyas but also recommended the Chukka and cliffhanger .the chukka look's like my choice.
so what do you guy's think.../ white industries hubs 9 speed
velocity chukka 700cc rims
double butted spokes,
36 hole i'm going to go for.
meant to ask who could i get to build them?
thanks all.
so what do you guy's think.../ white industries hubs 9 speed
velocity chukka 700cc rims
double butted spokes,
36 hole i'm going to go for.
meant to ask who could i get to build them?
thanks all.
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,053
Likes: 0
From: Alexandria, VA
Bikes: Trek 830 Mountain Track Drop bar conversion
I love Velocity rims. I don't have experience with the Chukka, though. I have the 36h Dyad rim on my rear, built up around a Deore LX hub. My weight is much closer to 300 than it is to 200, and the wheel has held up (no broken spokes or hub issues) w/ only one $25 truing/retensioning along the way. I't been a daily (decently loaded) commuter and weekend ride bike and I've got close to 3,000 miles on the wheel at this point. I had hoped to do an overnight touring trip or two in August, but circumstances didn't allow it. Nonetheless, I'll have no qualms taking my Dyad rim on tour when I finally get to.
So, I hope I'm not muddying the water for you here, but just wanted to give a vote from personal experience for the Dyad...
So, I hope I'm not muddying the water for you here, but just wanted to give a vote from personal experience for the Dyad...
#11
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,670
Likes: 43
Bikes: Rivendell Quickbeam, Rivendell Rambouillet, Rivendell Atlantis, Circle A town bike, De Rosa Neo Primato, Cervelo RS, Specialized Diverge
ok promise i wont ask again but i was thinking of going with this wheel build for loaded touring just wonderingwhat you folks think
rims, 36 hole velocity deep section.
hubs ,white industries M15.
spokes.stainless steel double butted .
people seem to like the velocity rims ,the hubs are perfection and the spokes should last the journey
thanks all.
rims, 36 hole velocity deep section.
hubs ,white industries M15.
spokes.stainless steel double butted .
people seem to like the velocity rims ,the hubs are perfection and the spokes should last the journey
thanks all.
The M15s have a loud ratchet mechanism which can be annoying to some.
#12
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 1
thanks lad that's what i wanted to hear i like the look of the rim's and the hub's are pure class.
NUN by chance do you know of a builder in the UK who can supply and build them for me .
thanks again lads appreciate the thoughts and info.
anto.
NUN by chance do you know of a builder in the UK who can supply and build them for me .
thanks again lads appreciate the thoughts and info.
anto.
#13
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,076
Likes: 1
From: Wheat Ridge, CO
Bikes: '93 Bridgestone MB-3, '88 Marinoni road bike, '00 Marinoni Piuma, '01 Riv A/R
I've been very happy with Velocity Cliffhanger 26" rims on my tourer, Velocity Aeroheads on my road bike. Both seem to be good, sturdy rims. Both wheelsets have required no attention since being built. The Chukker seems to be the widest of Velocity's 700C rims, which would be nice on a touring bike. Easier to mount a tire, especially a wider tire, and the tiny bit of extra air volume can only help cushion your bike and you on bad roads.
I built my wheels with Sapim 14-15 double butted spokes and Polyax nipples. The Polyax nipples are rounded where they seat in the rim, so they seat properly no matter what angle they contact the rim at. This is nice for deep section rims, where the spoke might intersect with the rim at a sharper angle than with a box section rim.
Look into VeloPlugs instead of rim tape. Saves weight, lasts longer than rim tape, and makes mounting tires a tiny bit easier.
I built my wheels with Sapim 14-15 double butted spokes and Polyax nipples. The Polyax nipples are rounded where they seat in the rim, so they seat properly no matter what angle they contact the rim at. This is nice for deep section rims, where the spoke might intersect with the rim at a sharper angle than with a box section rim.
Look into VeloPlugs instead of rim tape. Saves weight, lasts longer than rim tape, and makes mounting tires a tiny bit easier.
#15
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,670
Likes: 43
Bikes: Rivendell Quickbeam, Rivendell Rambouillet, Rivendell Atlantis, Circle A town bike, De Rosa Neo Primato, Cervelo RS, Specialized Diverge
https://www.whiteind.co.uk
and Velocity rims are available from brick lane bikes.
Any good professional bike shop should be able to get them and put the wheels together for you.
I have Velocity Dyads with M15 hubs and a 9 speed XT Shimano cassette
on my touring bike and the combo works very well.
https://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2007/cc...ndley0207.html
https://wheelsofchance.org/bikes/
Last edited by nun; 10-01-10 at 08:29 PM.
#16
doug64 i have no idea ,thing is I'm trying to sell my road bike to finance a new touring frame custom build from a guy called Paul Villiers in the UK ,so at the moment I'm just window shopping.but i reckon all will be standard nothing out of the ordinary.why did you ask.
edit.. i will be looking to get a 9 speed cassette (shimano)
if ever i get to build this bike i will be stripping my thorn and putting it on the new bike all xt gear
edit.. i will be looking to get a 9 speed cassette (shimano)
if ever i get to build this bike i will be stripping my thorn and putting it on the new bike all xt gear
Depending on your rear dropout spacing, 130 or 135mm., some hubs will not fit e.g., Shimano mountain hubs (LX,XT ect) use 135mm spacing. Road hubs(Shimano105's, Ultegra) use 130mm. I hve had a touring bike with 130mm dropout spacing and my present bike has 135mm. My wife's new bike is 130mm. FWIW--My wife's is set up with Ultegra hubs and 36 hole Dyad rims. Mine is Shimano XT hubs with 36 hole Dyad rims. Both 700c. We are using 11-34 Shimano XT 9 spd. cassettes on both. We just returned from a 500 mile fully loaded ride, and all the wheels performed as expected--great. Only time will tell how durable they really are.
Should not be a problem if you are doing a cutom build. Decide on the hub and have it built to fit. Enjoy your new bike
#17
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,670
Likes: 43
Bikes: Rivendell Quickbeam, Rivendell Rambouillet, Rivendell Atlantis, Circle A town bike, De Rosa Neo Primato, Cervelo RS, Specialized Diverge
#19
just another gosling


Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 20,577
Likes: 2,684
From: Everett, WA
Bikes: CoMo Speedster 2003, Trek 5200, CAAD 9, Fred 2004
Our tandem (310 lb. team) runs Velocity Aerohead in front, Velocity Deep V in back, 36H, on Chris King hubs. Plenty of spokes. Expensive hubs, I know, but maintainable and the most trouble free hubs I've ever had. WI hubs are more common for tandem hubs. Strong. I'll probably replace the Aerohead with a Deep V when I wear the brake track out again. For our sport riding, which is more like loaded single touring, we are running 25c, Conti 4000 in front and Schwalbe Durano in the back. The Durano has the edge for durability and the Conti for speed and grip. We have a carbon fork. For touring we run Vittorio Rubino Pro Tech in 28c, which have been wonderfully durable.
Dyads are also common tandem rims, running wider, heavier tires. However, when riding with tandems with this spec, we just vanish on the descents, meaning we work less hard on the flats and to a lesser extent, on the climbs. We were quite astonished at first. So there's that. But if you're a really strong rider with plenty of energy left at the end of the day, you probably don't care about that. We camped with one fellow, very strong, who carried a chair with him, while we pare every ounce we can.
Dyads are also common tandem rims, running wider, heavier tires. However, when riding with tandems with this spec, we just vanish on the descents, meaning we work less hard on the flats and to a lesser extent, on the climbs. We were quite astonished at first. So there's that. But if you're a really strong rider with plenty of energy left at the end of the day, you probably don't care about that. We camped with one fellow, very strong, who carried a chair with him, while we pare every ounce we can.





