No more Disc Brakes for New Novara Safari's?
10-28-14, 06:55 PM
#27
Senior Member
I know; I saw the 2015 on their website a few days ago. It has some of the upgrades I've done to mine; I installed BB-7 disc brakes and jagwire cables today. The one thing the new version has that I can't get is a matte black paint job. Mine is brown, but what a price difference: the new one is $470 more than I paid on labor day clearance sale.
10-29-14, 12:47 AM
#29
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Yeah, I like the brown color myself.
It looks like they also changed the location of the rear break mount and the fork dropouts are now facing forward.
It looks like they also changed the location of the rear break mount and the fork dropouts are now facing forward.
10-31-14, 11:15 AM
#30
Senior Member
10-31-14, 12:21 PM
#31
Banned
If buying a disk brake wheel set, I recommend a Centerlock hub, at least on the front.
The easily removable disc is very useful in Cartoning the bike up to ship to someplace you start from that is not your front door.
or sending it back at the end of your Tour. the disc off the wheel can be packed separately so as to not get bent in shipping, with the front wheel Off.
The easily removable disc is very useful in Cartoning the bike up to ship to someplace you start from that is not your front door.
or sending it back at the end of your Tour. the disc off the wheel can be packed separately so as to not get bent in shipping, with the front wheel Off.
10-31-14, 10:02 PM
#32
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Idaho
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Bikes: Trek 420, Novara Safari, Novara Bonaza
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I found the same deal on a Safari in Boise. I am also planning to add the BB7 disk brakes so I be interested in hearing your impressions on installing them and how they perfrm compared to the rim brakes it came with.
11-01-14, 04:59 PM
#33
Senior Member
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Dus9jGmGLI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiN6kpWhg-8
Installing them is not complicated if you have the star or torx tipped tool to screw the disc to the hub, and a good tool to cut the cable housing and cable. I had a little set of tips that fit into a 1/4" socket, including the star and allen head tips; I used a dremel tool to do my cutting. Tighten the screws holding the disc to the hub evenly, alternating sides, but don't tighten any one a great deal more than any other one on any go round. This means tighten each a little at a time, skipping the next one, and so on around the hub. go around the hub a couple of times, tightening evenly. For goodness sake, don't use a long handled lever if you use a socket or you might strip the threads in the hub and you will be screwed. I used a screwdriver type tool with a 1/4" socket driver for most of my tightening, and when I used the small ratchet handle I held it very close to the socket. Uneven tightening on the mounting screws will warp the disc.
Mount the appropriate calipers' mounting bracket to the front fork and seat stay bosses (they are different) firmly, but hold off tightening the screws holding the caliper to its mounting bracket until you can squeeze and hold the brake lever to compress the pads onto the disc before tightening these last screws. This method will or should get the caliper centered on either side of the disc, but you may have to loosen and adjust the caliper screws mounting to the bracket again, and possibly each time you remove the wheel. I had that experience, but maybe because I didn't turn my bike upside down to do the work (hung it on car transport rack, so it was like a bike shop frame holder). If I had done that, the hub axles would probably have bottomed out in the dropouts. That is my impression after doing my first and only install. Other folks here can probably point out a better method, but I worked through it the best I could. I got the disc/brake pad interface adjusted after one or two tries, no rubbing.
I don't have enough miles using the discs to say how much better; I haven't ridden in the rain or down long hills. I believe the reports that disc brakes are better in those conditions, though. Any other questions, send me a visitor message.
Edit: One more thing - make sure you order the BB7's for 'Mountain Bikes', not road bikes. Likewise the cables/housing. My brake levers worked fine. All together, about $100 for the upgrade.
Last edited by DeadGrandpa; 11-02-14 at 04:06 AM. Reason: one more thing
11-02-14, 12:27 AM
#34
Senior Member
Thread Starter
OP; You have the option of changing to disks easily so that is a plus to say the least. On you could just add the disks and swap the levers for a pair of dual wire levers. With 4 working brakes, you will have "for sure" stopping power while also precluding all the hypothetical or real braking shortfalls posed on these forums... Just thinking...
Anyways, I am glad that they are offering it with disc brakes again. Hopefully, I'll have enough toy fund when it goes on sale sometime next year.
11-02-14, 12:41 AM
#35
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I have a Schwinn DBX that I have installed BB7's brakes. I can honestly say that it is so much better compared to my V brake equipped bikes. Just make sure to use good quality cable housing and pay attention to skewer adjustment (tightness) when re-installing your wheels.
