Training for Touring
#1
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Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Marana, Az.
Bikes: 2014 Specialized HardRock Sport
Training for Touring
Hello all. I am a dedicated cyclist and work out on a Giant Rapid for fitness. However, I poked around in here a bit and I am being turned on to the idea of touring. My rides on my Rapid have been getting longer and I have access to lonely desert roads, not far from my house, here in Arizona, and my road/fitness bike is not up to the abuse because the roads out here get pretty nasty. So I started researching touring bikes and the more that I did the more I liked the idea of 26". The only drawback is that touring bikes are for pretty pricey, so I came up with an idea. I've been looking at a Giant Revel 2 that my LBD will give me for $350. My plan is to buy this bike and train on it. I would first build myself up for commuting to work, 30 miles each way, and carry a light load on a rear rack. Then eventually do some light touring and pull a trailer. I know front shocks will hinder my ride, and the front forks don't lock out, but can be adjusted to be pretty stiff. I have a lot of rough dirt roads out here too that short cut to other highways so I need a softer ride and a stiff frame. I plan on running big apples 2" tires. I've read great things about these tires. My LBS manager is my friend and wants to tour a few years down the road with me, and he's been riding for over 30 years. He commutes 60 miles round trip everyday so I have my work cut out for me. Anyway, I can't reason to buy a touring bike, like a LHT, especially on the nasty roads that are out here. The Revel 2 is has a relaxed geometry and is aluminum. I've heard that Giant's aluminum frames are tougher (lighter too) than the steel that is being used today on most bikes. I'm no expert on this matter so that's why I'm throwing myself to the wolves. What say you?
#2
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 293
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From: San Francisco Bay Area
This forum does give the impression that you need about $1,000 of extremely carefully thought out bicycle parts to assemble an adequate touring bike. Fortunately, you don't. Your existing bike is just fine. You may want to get ahold of some wider tires, or spend $50-$75 for a pair of study used wheels for wider tires so you can swap back and forth if you wish. Most tourers would also suggest adding handlebars that give you more hand positions, which helps a lot on longer rides. But that's about it. You're basically there already.
It's OK to quest after the perfect, spare-no-expense touring bike, but not if failing to obtain it keeps you from touring. There are a lot more important variables in a successful tour than how many spokes your rear wheel has or whether you've got the perfect shifters . . . or whether the bicycle industry has chosen to market your bike as appropriate for touring. The most important variable is comfort: Can you sit on your bike all day and have a good time? Then it's a touring bike.
It's OK to quest after the perfect, spare-no-expense touring bike, but not if failing to obtain it keeps you from touring. There are a lot more important variables in a successful tour than how many spokes your rear wheel has or whether you've got the perfect shifters . . . or whether the bicycle industry has chosen to market your bike as appropriate for touring. The most important variable is comfort: Can you sit on your bike all day and have a good time? Then it's a touring bike.
#3
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 102
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From: Marana, Az.
Bikes: 2014 Specialized HardRock Sport
This forum does give the impression that you need about $1,000 of extremely carefully thought out bicycle parts to assemble an adequate touring bike. Fortunately, you don't. Your existing bike is just fine. You may want to get ahold of some wider tires, or spend $50-$75 for a pair of study used wheels for wider tires so you can swap back and forth if you wish. Most tourers would also suggest adding handlebars that give you more hand positions, which helps a lot on longer rides. But that's about it. You're basically there already.
It's OK to quest after the perfect, spare-no-expense touring bike, but not if failing to obtain it keeps you from touring. There are a lot more important variables in a successful tour than how many spokes your rear wheel has or whether you've got the perfect shifters . . . or whether the bicycle industry has chosen to market your bike as appropriate for touring. The most important variable is comfort: Can you sit on your bike all day and have a good time? Then it's a touring bike.
It's OK to quest after the perfect, spare-no-expense touring bike, but not if failing to obtain it keeps you from touring. There are a lot more important variables in a successful tour than how many spokes your rear wheel has or whether you've got the perfect shifters . . . or whether the bicycle industry has chosen to market your bike as appropriate for touring. The most important variable is comfort: Can you sit on your bike all day and have a good time? Then it's a touring bike.
#4
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,907
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From: Montreal Canada
30miles or 50km EACH WAY? wow, thats a hell of a commute.....do you really have the time to do that? 50k could very well take close to 3 hours.....dont you think this is unrealistic (but hey, if you can, want to and have the inclination, you sure as heck will get in shape!)
#5
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From: Marana, Az.
Bikes: 2014 Specialized HardRock Sport
I would aim for 2 to 3 commutes a week and do rides on other days after work with my road bike for fitness and variety. I want to commute that distance for training purposes. I know it will take some time to build up to that. That is the whole point though. My line of work is so demanding and stressful that 2 to 3 hours each way will be a great stress reliever.
#6
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Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Montreal Canada
well, that would be an excellent way to get into shape.
to the bike, just looked at the specs and was surprised to see that it uses a 7 speed rear casette, just surprised a bit as 8 and 9 speeds tend to be the common stuff now, and 10 and even 11 on higher up bikes. Just for that I would question it being a good buy for the money, as I would think that other bikes (even used) might be more worth your money. My old aluminum hard tail mtn bike that I use for just what you are wanting to do works fine with slick(ish) tires on it and a rack. It is about 13 years old and it has 8 speeds, so you might want to look into something with better components that is used and you would have a better bike for your money.
If your friend is willing, he would be able to suggest/and or look for others for you to think about.
to the bike, just looked at the specs and was surprised to see that it uses a 7 speed rear casette, just surprised a bit as 8 and 9 speeds tend to be the common stuff now, and 10 and even 11 on higher up bikes. Just for that I would question it being a good buy for the money, as I would think that other bikes (even used) might be more worth your money. My old aluminum hard tail mtn bike that I use for just what you are wanting to do works fine with slick(ish) tires on it and a rack. It is about 13 years old and it has 8 speeds, so you might want to look into something with better components that is used and you would have a better bike for your money.
If your friend is willing, he would be able to suggest/and or look for others for you to think about.
#7
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Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Marana, Az.
Bikes: 2014 Specialized HardRock Sport
Hmmm, for some reason the 7 speed got past me. Thanks for the heads up. All though 7 speed wouldn't be a deal breaker it would be a factor. I'll look at the gear ratio compared to the Revel 1. I wanted to stay away from the Revel 1 because of the disc brakes. Same frame geometry just different components.
#8
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 677
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From: Grants Pass, Oregon
Bikes: Hard Rock Sport, Peugeot Triathlon, Schwinn Paramount Series 7
It's OK to quest after the perfect, spare-no-expense touring bike, but not if failing to obtain it keeps you from touring. There are a lot more important variables in a successful tour than how many spokes your rear wheel has or whether you've got the perfect shifters . . . or whether the bicycle industry has chosen to market your bike as appropriate for touring. The most important variable is comfort: Can you sit on your bike all day and have a good time? Then it's a touring bike.

Regarding the 7-speed - that's all I've ever toured on. Works for me. I'm more concerned with how low is low gear for touring. That Revel 2 has a 34T low gear on the cassette, which I would think would be fine coupled with the 28T chainring.
Last edited by simplygib; 05-15-11 at 07:19 PM.
#9
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Joined: Jan 2007
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From: NE Tx
Bikes: Tour Easy, Linear USS, Lightening Thunderbolt, custom DF, Raleigh hybrid, Felt time trial
As for training, sounds to me like you're already up to speed for touring. It ain't a race. More of a slog. Of course, I guess there is no such thing as being in too good a shape. Just don't burn your self out training. I ain't necessary.
#10
Any chance you could borrow and try a couple of different bikes from your friend? A couple of short tours will tell you more than this forum as far as what works for you. People have and do tours on just about any bike, fitness allowing. Start slow, experiment, and see what floats your boat.
#11
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Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Marana, Az.
Bikes: 2014 Specialized HardRock Sport
Any chance you could borrow and try a couple of different bikes from your friend? A couple of short tours will tell you more than this forum as far as what works for you. People have and do tours on just about any bike, fitness allowing. Start slow, experiment, and see what floats your boat.
#12
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 102
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From: Marana, Az.
Bikes: 2014 Specialized HardRock Sport
Checked out your journal. Been to Tortilla Flat many, many times. By motorcycle though. I bet riding 88 from Canyon Lake all the way to Apache and then Roosevelt would be awesome. And I probably will since it's a mere 1.5 hours from Marana (by car that is). Anyway, cool journal. Thanks for sharing!
Last edited by OdieInAz; 05-16-11 at 01:15 AM.
#13
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,907
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From: Montreal Canada
I too toured on 7 speed for years, with middle of the road derailleurs (LX) and it was all very durable etc. Having used 7, 8 and 9 speed stuff, I'll take 8 or 9 over 7 just cuz its just as durable and the ratios are closer--but hey, as you say, it works too.
Like I said, my comments were more in the line of perhaps spending a bit more for better components and/or used, just so longevity is better. (example, my wife's bike has twist grips, low to middlish level, and after only a year and a half, they werent working well-partly perhaps with my son being hamfisted using it, but for me an example of sometimes it being worth spending a bit more for better working, longer lasting components with less troubles down the road.)
ALL that said, I agree completely, you make sure your bike is in good shape, dont overload it like a RV and it will be fun.
I also agree on not going nuts with training.
#14
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Alexandria, VA
Bikes: Trek 830 Mountain Track Drop bar conversion
Yeah. Don't overdo it with the training. This page sums up pretty well what I've gathered as a prevailing current of thought among touring cyclists.
www.bicycletouring101.com/LetsGetPhysical.htm
www.bicycletouring101.com/LetsGetPhysical.htm
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