Brake advice needed
#1
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 45
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From: The UK
Bikes: Cannondale touring
Brake advice needed
Hi converting to drops will these components work together and stop a loaded tourer?
And which brake is better
1.Shimano XT M770 V Brake
2.Shimano Deore LX BR-T660 V Brakes
with this lever Tektro RL520 Drop Bar Brake Levers
Will this set up do the job safely if not can you recommend a reasonable priced leave brake combo?
Is linking to products allowed or considered advertising.
Thanks
And which brake is better
1.Shimano XT M770 V Brake
2.Shimano Deore LX BR-T660 V Brakes
with this lever Tektro RL520 Drop Bar Brake Levers
Will this set up do the job safely if not can you recommend a reasonable priced leave brake combo?
Is linking to products allowed or considered advertising.
Thanks
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,766
Likes: 1
From: NE Tx
Bikes: Tour Easy, Linear USS, Lightening Thunderbolt, custom DF, Raleigh hybrid, Felt time trial
Linking is allowed and encouraged.
I'm no brake expert. Use calipers myself. Do know that nearly any combo that will sqeeze the pads against the rims will adequately stop a loaded bicycle if all components are properly tuned. Clearance for tires/fenders can be an issue. Kool Stop pads seem to be the standard.
I'm no brake expert. Use calipers myself. Do know that nearly any combo that will sqeeze the pads against the rims will adequately stop a loaded bicycle if all components are properly tuned. Clearance for tires/fenders can be an issue. Kool Stop pads seem to be the standard.
#3
V brakes require either special "long pull" drop levers, or a cable pull adaptor like the Travel Agent.
https://aebike.com/product/problem-so...r0411-qc30.htm
I prefer Avid SD7 series brakes over Shimano LX, XT series because they stop as well or better, weigh less, and cost about half as much.
https://www.pricepoint.com/detail/144...Brake-2010.htm
I just discovered Shimano no longer makes the parallelogram-mechanism brake it sold for many years. Now they sell a copy of the SD7, for twice the price. At least they used to sell you something for the extra cost, even if it was no more effective - now they just take your money.
Last edited by seeker333; 08-18-11 at 05:54 PM.
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,441
Likes: 4
My advice for brakes, at least something you can check out, is to model carefully the set-up on the factory version of your bike, or at least something very similar. There can be combinations that do not work well depending on the fork geometry. In this case the geometry as seen from the front, rather than the side (stearing geometry is the side view for the most part). Touring bikes, drop bar tourers, come with fork geometry that runs the gamut from road racing with fender rack, mounts to hefty MTB type forks. What works in that context varies.
I run conventional levers, and cantis. But Vs are just as good with some peculiarities of their own. You need either the tektro rl 50 or Dia Compe 287v.
https://www.rivbike.com/products/show...-levers/15-146
The main problems with Vs are that you need true wheels, and you need to use kludgy levers, or kludgier travel agents. There isn't better brealing power for the most part, once the levers are accounted for. But the mechanics are more familiar to many.
I run conventional levers, and cantis. But Vs are just as good with some peculiarities of their own. You need either the tektro rl 50 or Dia Compe 287v.
https://www.rivbike.com/products/show...-levers/15-146
The main problems with Vs are that you need true wheels, and you need to use kludgy levers, or kludgier travel agents. There isn't better brealing power for the most part, once the levers are accounted for. But the mechanics are more familiar to many.
#5
old and in the way
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: Anchorage, Alaska
Bikes: Icicle Cycles..custom touring bike, Fargo 1st gen
My LHT came with canti's, didn't work worth beans. Installed the XT V-brake & Tekro long pull lever, works great. Not sure what the difference the LX would make.
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 571
Likes: 1
From: Maryland
Bikes: Hollands Touring Bike, Schwinn mountain bike, folding bike, tandem and triple
My advice for brakes, at least something you can check out, is to model carefully the set-up on the factory version of your bike, or at least something very similar. There can be combinations that do not work well depending on the fork geometry. In this case the geometry as seen from the front, rather than the side (stearing geometry is the side view for the most part). Touring bikes, drop bar tourers, come with fork geometry that runs the gamut from road racing with fender rack, mounts to hefty MTB type forks. What works in that context varies.
I run conventional levers, and cantis. But Vs are just as good with some peculiarities of their own. You need either the tektro rl 50 or Dia Compe 287v.
https://www.rivbike.com/products/show...-levers/15-146
The main problems with Vs are that you need true wheels, and you need to use kludgy levers, or kludgier travel agents. There isn't better brealing power for the most part, once the levers are accounted for. But the mechanics are more familiar to many.
I run conventional levers, and cantis. But Vs are just as good with some peculiarities of their own. You need either the tektro rl 50 or Dia Compe 287v.
https://www.rivbike.com/products/show...-levers/15-146
The main problems with Vs are that you need true wheels, and you need to use kludgy levers, or kludgier travel agents. There isn't better brealing power for the most part, once the levers are accounted for. But the mechanics are more familiar to many.
#7
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,898
Likes: 70
#8
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: The UK
Bikes: Cannondale touring
Wow no i am good and confused ....decided to go to the LBS give him the money (he is a good chap and deserves a quid or two) Ill go with his advice, thanks for the input it proved to me i need some good advice and not to try wing it on the brake issue.
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