Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Touring
Reload this Page >

Potential LHT build, feedback appreciated

Notices
Touring Have a dream to ride a bike across your state, across the country, or around the world? Self-contained or fully supported? Trade ideas, adventures, and more in our bicycle touring forum.

Potential LHT build, feedback appreciated

Old 09-03-12, 11:25 AM
  #1  
Full Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 321
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Potential LHT build, feedback appreciated

[outgrowth of the "have 4k" post]

My beloved LHT is no more, but I used it on two previous month+ tours. I did worry about the occasional "death wobble" on descents. However, I'm lighter now, and will probably use a Bob, so this should be less of an issue.

Goals are basically to have a backup/alternate to my thorn for touring. I need:
- big gearing range, as I'm a big dude and will be tackling Cascades next year, possibly on this bike.
- disc brakes and friction shifters, as I've always found rim brakes and indexed derailleurs too finicky.


So the following is a first cut at an LHT disc trucker build. For a few things, I'm not sure what to get, including the brake levers (short-pull, separate from shifters), derailleurs (need to deal with mountain triple in front, and huge (36t) cog in rear). Will the Silver shifters work w/ all thuff?

- disc trucker frame, 60cm $409.00 modernbike

- road avid bb7 x2 $142.00 amazon ASSUMING ROAD BRAKES WORK
- brake levers, short-pull for road bb7, WHICH?

- SOS levers x2 $107.00 rivendell (friction, bar mount)
- shimano HG61, 9spd, 12-36 cassette $50.00 rivendell
- deore XT 44-32-22, chainrings, $0.00 reuse
- SRAM PC-890 chain $28.00 amazon
- derailleurs, WHICH?

- wheelset $750.00 peter white, white industries disc, 40-spoke
- 2 new tires, schwalbe supreme 700x35 x2 $150.00

- Nitto Noodle, 48cm $83.00
- handlebar tape, leather $70.00 velo-orange
- thompson seatpost $0.00 reuse
- saddle B17 $0.00 reuse
- pleischer kickstand $0.00 reuse
- assorted cables $100.00
- stem WHICH?

Thanks,
pete

Last edited by northerntier; 09-03-12 at 12:20 PM.
northerntier is offline  
Old 09-03-12, 12:37 PM
  #2  
Full Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 321
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
This thread:
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...on-Cross-Check
talks about the Deore M592 SGS shadow derailleur to deal w/ the 12-36. $54 shipped from Niagara.

For the front, should I go w/ a mountain or road derailleur?
northerntier is offline  
Old 09-03-12, 01:06 PM
  #3  
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,598

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,357 Times in 863 Posts
stem WHICH?
that is a fit issue, not do able assess over the blind web.
What was the stem size and rise angle on the last bike, how did you like the fit?

I have gone from a 8cm and Randonneur bars to a shorter stem Noodle Drop bar,
quill type then,
then my newer bike I adopted trekking bars .. Magura HS33, hydraulic rim brakes.
Rohloff grip-shifter..
fietsbob is offline  
Old 09-03-12, 01:13 PM
  #4  
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,598

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,357 Times in 863 Posts
brake levers, short-pull for road bb7, WHICH?
road no Brifter lots of choices .
you can even get campag levers without the gizzards in them ,
or get their lower end ones and strip the Brifter parts out.

V brake long pull Tektro , Cane Creek make a lever in both types..

its almost like saddle choices .. see whats in the shops, hold it in your hand

I have some of Shimano Aero levers, they are on my bar end shifted road bike..

Riv stocks those {?]

Last edited by fietsbob; 09-03-12 at 01:16 PM.
fietsbob is offline  
Old 09-03-12, 04:25 PM
  #5  
Used to be fast
 
surfjimc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: So Cal
Posts: 580

Bikes: 85 Specialized Expedition, 07 Motobecane Immortal Spirit built up with Dura ace and Mavic Ksyriums, '85 Bianchi Track Bike, '90 Fisher Procaliber, '96 Landshark TwinDirt Shark Tandem, '88 Curtlo

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I did a similar build with an '86 Specialized Expedition. I went with XT derailers front and rear. I used the same 48cm nittos with Shimano brake levers. Love the bars, hated the levers. They were very narrow. I ended up with Cane Creek levers with a much wider platform to rest your hands on. They also come in normal and long pull versions at Harris Cyclery. Being a big guy, the wider levers made a huge difference. I also went with leather bar tape, but double wrapped it over some cheap gel tape. That gave a great feel to the bars.
What made you choose the White Industries wheels over the Phils? The cost? I wanted the Peter White touring wheels with the Phils, but ran out of money and am still using the original wheels with a 7 speed until I can afford them.
The Velo Orange stem is very nice looking, or to keep it in the family you could go with a Thompson to match the seat post.
surfjimc is offline  
Old 09-03-12, 04:57 PM
  #6  
Full Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 321
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Cane creek scr-5? They look pretty good. White industry's are less than Phil wood, I've had a problem w/ a Phil wood hub before, and some of philwood.com is not rendering on google chrome/ Mac. :-).
northerntier is offline  
Old 09-03-12, 09:11 PM
  #7  
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,598

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,357 Times in 863 Posts
One thing I found , smaller shops in the high season are not set up to hand build wheels on demand
so some times a common 36 spoke freehub will be better , if you damage the rim
an off the peg wheel wont be premium components, then you have to tear out
the premium hub, un build the wheel, and mail it home.

Had no problems with my Phil Hub, but I used a Freewheel.
so the hub was simple ..
fietsbob is offline  
Old 09-03-12, 09:32 PM
  #8  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,428

Bikes: Cervelo RS, Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Pro, Schwinn Typhoon, Nashbar touring, custom steel MTB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by northerntier
- disc brakes and friction shifters, as I've always found rim brakes and indexed derailleurs too finicky.
If you think that rim brakes are too finicky, you're not going to like any of the mechanical disc brakes. I love discs, but will be the first to admit that the BB7 Road and BB7 Mountain are more finicky than any rim brake I've used.

- road avid bb7 x2 $142.00 amazon ASSUMING ROAD BRAKES WORK
Match them with the right levers and BB7 Road brakes work as well as the MTB version...

- stem WHICH?
They're all about the same these days. If you want something that offers some adjustment, I like Specialized's line of shim-adjustable stems. I've broken two cheap, infinitely adjustable stems. The Specialized stems, like the Comp Multi-Stem are light, offer a useful range of stem angles, and won't break...
sstorkel is offline  
Old 09-04-12, 02:58 PM
  #9  
Full Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 321
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks for the comments, guys. I talked to Dave at Rivendell for a bit and he was very helpful. Says they spec bikes with the SOS shift levers and the 12-36 rear cassette all the time. I'm going to use Cane Creek SCR-5 brake levers, plus interrupter levers from my old bike (can't remember what they were).
sstorkel, I have a BB7 on the back of my thorn and like it quite a bit, so I think it'll be okay. I am going to use the road disc brake model. I've heard preferences both ways (road better, and ATB better), so I'm going to just stay w/ the road.

scubasteve, it actually happened to one of my touring buddies. His bottom bracket started snapping, popping, and crackling. The local ISP theorized that the builder hadn't used any/enough grease, and the builder did pay for everything. Seems unlikely to have made that big of an error, though, as he is a very well-known, and well thought of, custom builder. *My* Phil Wood has been fine, but I no longer think of it as being bullet-proof.


I'll have an Arkel handlebar bag and probably a bob on tour. I'll upload a picture when I build it up.


pete
northerntier is offline  
Old 09-04-12, 05:26 PM
  #10  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,428

Bikes: Cervelo RS, Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Pro, Schwinn Typhoon, Nashbar touring, custom steel MTB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by northerntier
sstorkel, I have a BB7 on the back of my thorn and like it quite a bit, so I think it'll be okay. I am going to use the road disc brake model. I've heard preferences both ways (road better, and ATB better), so I'm going to just stay w/ the road.


With the BB7, both road and mountain, I find I have to adjust the pad spacing a bit almost every time I remove a wheel... and sometimes when I don't. In that respect, they're quite a bit more finicky than rim brakes. Can't remember the last time I had to do any maintenance to a rim brake, other than change the pads when they wear out.
sstorkel is offline  
Old 09-04-12, 06:58 PM
  #11  
Full Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 321
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by sstorkel
With the BB7, both road and mountain, I find I have to adjust the pad spacing a bit almost every time I remove a wheel... and sometimes when I don't. In that respect, they're quite a bit more finicky than rim brakes. Can't remember the last time I had to do any maintenance to a rim brake, other than change the pads when they wear out.[/FONT]
I'm constantly adjusting cantilever brakes. Maybe the springs and/or housings have just gotten messed up. I haven't replaced them in five years.
northerntier is offline  
Old 09-04-12, 07:58 PM
  #12  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 11,309

Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.

Mentioned: 48 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3509 Post(s)
Liked 1,492 Times in 1,165 Posts
Regarding finicky indexed shifters, I use an 8 speed system on my two touring bikes and on my foldup bike. I have almost no problems at all. Shifting on my foldup is a bit sloppy but I have to use outer housing on the full length of the derailleur cable and it is long enough that I have to use a tandem cable because of the folding mechanism.

Was your finicky shifting on a 9 or more speed system?

I occasionally have to clean and lube the plastic cable guide under the bottom bracket, but that will cause a shifting problem on indexed just as much as on friction.

I use friction front shifter.
Tourist in MSN is offline  
Old 09-04-12, 10:10 PM
  #13  
Senior Member
 
juggleaddict's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 866

Bikes: LHT

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The Rivendell silver shifters will work with just about anything, I'm running a full XT setup and they work great.
juggleaddict is offline  
Old 09-05-12, 08:10 PM
  #14  
Full Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 321
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN
Was your finicky shifting on a 9 or more speed system?
There were a number of elements: 9-speed megarange cassette (11-34), mountain front, mountain deraileurs, and it turns out road shifters (LBS says they would work, lots of people now tell me no). So the shifters could be at least part of my problem. I've had problems on other bikes as well, as I generally have very large ranges.

W/ friction it might not be fast, precise, but at least I know I'll be able to get in the top and bottom gears, plus appropriate ones in the middle.

My silver shifters should be here tomorrow, frame and almost everything else is now in the mail and on it's way to me. Unfortunately, it turns out Peter White is backlogged, so my wheels will take a month to get here .

pete
northerntier is offline  
Old 09-06-12, 09:44 AM
  #15  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,428

Bikes: Cervelo RS, Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Pro, Schwinn Typhoon, Nashbar touring, custom steel MTB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by northerntier
Unfortunately, it turns out Peter White is backlogged, so my wheels will take a month to get here .
Peter White isn't the only guy in the country who knows how to build wheels... Hell, I bought the parts and the tools and built wheels myself. Had them faster that PW could deliver, they're every bit as reliable, and despite the cost of tools they ended up being cheaper! Having built them myself, I'm now much more confident that I could repair them on the road.
sstorkel is offline  
Old 09-06-12, 10:25 AM
  #16  
Senior Member
 
NCbiker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 353
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
You might want to look closer at your chain selection. That Sram chain only comes with 114 links and with the extra chain stay length on the LHT, it will most likely be too short. I just replaced mine and found this out this the hard way. Surly spec's out a Sram chain on their complete builds, but they are just cutting the length they need from a spool of chain.
NCbiker is offline  
Old 09-06-12, 12:31 PM
  #17  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon, USA
Posts: 90

Bikes: 1995? Trek 830 (with mods); 1980ish Fuji S12-S

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I'd go cautiously with the kickstand with a Surly frame. Surly has a statement about kickstands on their website, specifically about crushing the chain-stays. While I am aware that you aren't some noob likely to crush chain stays through over-tightening, there may be a warranty issue lurking there anyway that they can use in case you ever have any difficulty.

https://surlybikes.com/info_hole/spew/kickstands_on_long_haul_truckers

P.S. The Pletscher is one that they recommended near the bottom.

Last edited by SteamDonkey74; 09-06-12 at 12:35 PM.
SteamDonkey74 is offline  
Old 09-06-12, 01:05 PM
  #18  
Senior Member
 
Chris Pringle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: The Pearl of the Pacific, Mexico
Posts: 1,310

Bikes: '12 Rodriguez UTB Custom, '83 Miyata 610, '83 Nishiki Century Mixte (Work of Art), '18 Engin hardtail MTB

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 32 Post(s)
Liked 29 Times in 18 Posts
Originally Posted by SteamDonkey74
I'd go cautiously with the kickstand with a Surly frame. Surly has a statement about kickstands on their website, specifically about crushing the chain-stays. While I am aware that you aren't some noob likely to crush chain stays through over-tightening, there may be a warranty issue lurking there anyway that they can use in case you ever have any difficulty.

https://surlybikes.com/info_hole/spew/kickstands_on_long_haul_truckers

P.S. The Pletscher is one that they recommended near the bottom.
Also look into a click-stand. Much more elegant and weighs very little compared to any kickstands. It will fit easiy in your handlebar bag.
Chris Pringle is offline  
Old 09-08-12, 10:05 PM
  #19  
Full Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 321
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by NCbiker
You might want to look closer at your chain selection. That Sram chain only comes with 114 links and with the extra chain stay length on the LHT, it will most likely be too short. I just replaced mine and found this out this the hard way. Surly spec's out a Sram chain on their complete builds, but they are just cutting the length they need from a spool of chain.
This is a bit worrisome, though I've always used SRAM chains on my broken trucker, and the three that I've checked all have 114 links. What do you use?


Originally Posted by SteamDonkey74
I'd go cautiously with the kickstand with a Surly frame. Surly has a statement about kickstands on their website, specifically about crushing the chain-stays. While I am aware that you aren't some noob likely to crush chain stays through over-tightening, there may be a warranty issue lurking there anyway that they can use in case you ever have any difficulty.

https://surlybikes.com/info_hole/spew..._haul_truckers

P.S. The Pletscher is one that they recommended near the bottom.
Yep, I used the Pletscher on my old trucker and liked it quite a bit. Much heavier than a clickstand, but so convenient. Nothing like it for holding the bike when fixing flats.
northerntier is offline  
Old 09-09-12, 06:59 AM
  #20  
Senior Member
 
NCbiker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 353
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by northerntier
This is a bit worrisome, though I've always used SRAM chains on my broken trucker, and the three that I've checked all have 114 links. What do you use?
I guess the the required length will depend on the size of the largest chain ring you are using. I have the stock crankset with 48-36-26t rings. In order to get the chain around the largest cogs with an inch of extra chain, which is how I was taught to size chains, I needed 116 links. The original stock Sram chain also had 116 links. Any of the 9 speed Shimano chains can be had with 114,116 or 118 links. I saw online where another LHT owner contacted Sram to see if he could get a longer chain and they advised him to buy 2 chains and use an extra power link to lengthen to the desired 116 links. I went with a Shimano Ultegra chain.
NCbiker is offline  
Old 09-09-12, 07:01 AM
  #21  
Full Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 321
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by NCbiker
I guess the the required length will depend on the size of the largest chain ring you are using. I have the stock crankset with 48-36-26t rings. In order to get the chain around the largest cogs with an inch of extra chain, which is how I was taught to size chains, I needed 116 links. Any of the 9 speed Shimano chains can be had with 114,116 or 118 links. I saw online where another LHT owner contacted Sram to see if he could get a longer chain and they advised him to buy 2 chains and use an extra power link to lengthen to the desired 116 links. I went with a Shimano Ultegra chain.
Well, I do have an extra powerlink, so that should be okay :-) Also, my biggest chainring is 44, so I might squeak by.
northerntier is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
JWK
Bicycle Mechanics
2
03-14-16 08:46 AM
nddesign
Bicycle Mechanics
19
02-24-16 10:36 AM
duffetta
Commuting
9
04-01-11 12:34 PM
sogood
Folding Bikes
9
03-01-11 11:54 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.