I have had spokes break where their threads started at the nipple end of spoke. I could not get the bit of spoke out of the nipple and had to replace the nipple. But that was a couple decades ago, I do not recall if I had a rim tape issue or not.

I do carry some post office envelope tyvek to use as a tire boot. If I could not get my adhesive rim tape back on the rim after changing a nipple, I would probably use that tyvek in an emergency.

Duct tape will work fine for rim tape if needed. Truth be told, you can often use your rim tape again after the repair by just carefully rewinding it upon itself as it originally came packaged and then reapplying. The old reliable Velox tape seems to re-apply easier than some of the newer "plastic" like rim tapes. Also it doesn't dry out and crack as well leaving you exposed and more susceptible to flats.

How is this so? It would seem the leverage of the wheel would be greater than most wrenches and you would have to be careful not to pop the skewer when removing the cassette or getting it too tight when securing it again.

I only use the Velox tape. I've tried several plastic ones and they all failed at the nipple holes much sooner than good old Velox. It's true that Velox is a little thicker and thus makes tires a little harder to get on, but it's not much harder and is worth it IMO. You can reuse the Velox. Plastic electrical tape makes a good rim tape repair, at least for a while.

When they fail there, it's because the rim is drilled vertically, rather than in line with the spokes. In this case, cheap doesn't necessarily mean inexpensive, just cheaply made.

I'm not sure that I follow you, how does rim tape affect tire insertion since theoretically it shouldn't come in contact with the tire and your tube is deflated when inserting?

I used to carry a cassette cracker, like the one pictured.

Then I got a bender that I could use to dog-leg my spare spokes. I got this at a hobby shop. It's designed to put a dog-leg into RC airplanes' throttle wires. It works perfectly on bicycle spokes. (I added the pink line to demonstrate the shape on the working end of the bender.) With dog-legged spokes, no cassette removal is needed to replace them.

I also carry a fiberfix spoke so I can put off actually installing the replacement spokes until I reach my destination.

Bless you my son, finally a replacement for the old long discontinued Eldi tool

When mounting a tire, the bead will be more or less in the center of the rim, which is where the rim tape is. The tube should never be deflated when mounting a tire. Always pump it until it is just round. Then mount the first bead. Push the second bead back and insert the valve. Then go around and push the slightly inflated tube into the hollow of the rim, until it is all invisible behind the second bead. Then push the valve up into the tire and insert the second bead at the valve. Proceed to push the bead over the rim to the left and right, until it stays there. Turn the rim in your hands 180° and push the bead over the rim until there's only about 6" left and it's hard to do. Push it a little more with your thumbs until it's very hard to do. Then go back to the valve and push it back in against the tire. Push the bead at the valve close to the rim center. Then work around the tire toward where the bead is still showing, pushing that second bead into the tire center. Then push the rest of the bead over the rim with your thumbs. You may have to repeat this bead-centering procedure a couple of times. If it still won't go over, only then let the air out of the tube and try again. If you do it this way, you'll never have a tube trapped under the bead or have a tube damaged by a tire lever.

It was a thread about that tool that started me trying to find a substitute.
I think this bender has Z-bend in the name.

The problem is with horizontal dropouts. The small tab of the tool needs a firm flat surface upon which to bear. With horizontal dropouts, the lower lip is not flat and can cause the tool to shift around. The tool can force the axle out of the dropouts and then apply force to the skewer, bending the threaded tip.
Most of the time it works OK but you have to be very careful.
On vertical dropouts, the tool bears on the derailleur hanger and forces the axle forward so it can't move.
A Pamir Hypercracker does not bear on the dropout but on the chainstay. It works with either style of dropout equally well.

I will have to file a complaint with the company that made my 1961 vintage Italian racing bike.

You might try lacing on some modern rims with the spoke holes drilled properly. Modern rims and tires are the biggest advance in cycling technology since your bike was built. I used to ride a Legnano of about that vintage. Bought it used in '62. Full Campy.

Think about the amount of people who ride a bike. Although many bike riders claim to know a lot the reality is the same as car users, most of us don't have a clue about bike mechanics or know very little about bike mechanics. I think everyone should learn and be able to change a tire on their car or bike. I also think if people are travelling long distance they should carry spare parts like built and ready to go wheels. If you get a flat you should be able to fix it, if the tire is worn you should be able to change it but if a major problem was to happen you could just change the wheel because you have ready built ones with you. It's easier to change a complete wheel than it is to change a tube or tire so there should be no problems doing this and they are also very light and easy to carry.

Sorry, I have to ask. Where do you carry a spare wheel on a bicycle? Please post a picture of your bike, loaded for touring with the spare wheel in place.

Might as well tow a whole new bike behind you
Maybe there are some very remote regions that would justify carrying spare wheels?

Believe it or not. i encountered a guy with a massive cart once where he had a higher than i would have wanted clearance for the cart. under it was a spare cart wheel, along with a bunch of other parts. It looked heavy and painful to me. Did you ever read Grant Peterson's comment on Rivendell website.

"Still, it’s a common concern: What if I’m touring in Timbuktu and I need a new rim-tire-wheel? We have researched this. There’s no bike shop of any kind in Timbuktu. There’s what amounts to a general store, but it doesn’t sell bike stuff. Surprise: Timbuktu is a hot, sandy place that’s inhospitable to bikes. Avoid it!"

But more recent concerns other than hot, sandy and inhospitable, Al Queda insurgents and French Foreign Legionaires, aka mercenaries.

I stack my stuff at the back of the bike and secure it if ratchet straps. I can secure a wheel on each side of the stack. Or if it's a small load i leave the rear rack bare and the wheels can be carried flat secured by ratchet straps with a ground mat which i cut to a certain size placed between them to protect them.

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