Selecting a crankset
#1
Selecting a crankset
I'm not sure what best sub-forum would be for this question but "touring" is my best guess, given what I know about the equipment that is commonly used.
I'm getting a bike built from the frame-up and the last real component I need to choose is the crankset. I plan to use friction shifters so indexing compatibility is not an issue.
The two cranksets I've narrowed down to are the Deore Trekking 48/36/26 and the Sugino XD-2/XD600 46/36/24 / 46/36/26. Either will give me the gearing range I want so I'm looking solely at the effects of the crankset and bottom bracket on ride feel.
The Deore is an external BB Hollowtech crankset and the Sugino is square taper. Will there be a substantial difference in the feel of these two set-ups? Will the differences be too small to really notice?
My rides will be anthing from a few miles around the neighborhood to 20-50 mile group rides. I won't be hauling anything besides myself and typical items like water bottles, spare tube, etc...
I'm getting a bike built from the frame-up and the last real component I need to choose is the crankset. I plan to use friction shifters so indexing compatibility is not an issue.
The two cranksets I've narrowed down to are the Deore Trekking 48/36/26 and the Sugino XD-2/XD600 46/36/24 / 46/36/26. Either will give me the gearing range I want so I'm looking solely at the effects of the crankset and bottom bracket on ride feel.
The Deore is an external BB Hollowtech crankset and the Sugino is square taper. Will there be a substantial difference in the feel of these two set-ups? Will the differences be too small to really notice?
My rides will be anthing from a few miles around the neighborhood to 20-50 mile group rides. I won't be hauling anything besides myself and typical items like water bottles, spare tube, etc...
#2
#3
You'd have to be ODC to notice any difference in ride or feel. Gear inches are gear inches. After that different spindle, bearing and crank designs are intended to make things lighter and in some extreme cases - stiffer. Chainrings on 6-7-8 speed cranks don't have to be quite as concentric as 9-10 speed set-ups, but what you're looking at should be equivalent to each other. The ramping pins on the Shimano are propriatory and work extremely well when used with their chains and cassettes, but if you are going to mix and match chain, cassette and chainrings anyway - it really doesn't matter.
#4
Newbie

Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: Sandy, UT
Bikes: Gunnar Roadie, Gunnar Sport, Surly LHT, Gary Fisher Genesis
I have the Sugino on my Gunnar Sport and a Deore crank on my LHT. Set up properly I don't think you would notice any difference, both work great. In touring I always feel that having potentially lower gears is always better, but with friction shifters I see no reason why you couldn't put a 22 on either one if you wanted.
What frame are you using?
What frame are you using?
#5
Banned
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 43,586
Likes: 1,380
From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
no big difference, But the External bearing type crank has the tubular spindle fixed to the right crank arm
the bearings are exposed to stuff coming off the front wheel, mudguards will cut back on that,
get their mudflap down close to the ground...
feel? you will feel modern since it's the latest stuff..
square taper there are more competing brands, some of the better ones, have superior weather sealing..
they have to be chosen in consideration of what crank is chosen.
see all the what length do i get ?questions here , from those that think they are individual decisions..
I like the setup on my square taper BB to be 3rd ring edge over the fixed cup face,
the 3rd ring has ears coming down to almost touch , eliminating the possibility of the chain
getting wrapped around the BB spindle and getting jammed there..
the bearings are exposed to stuff coming off the front wheel, mudguards will cut back on that,
get their mudflap down close to the ground...
feel? you will feel modern since it's the latest stuff..
square taper there are more competing brands, some of the better ones, have superior weather sealing..
they have to be chosen in consideration of what crank is chosen.
see all the what length do i get ?questions here , from those that think they are individual decisions..
I like the setup on my square taper BB to be 3rd ring edge over the fixed cup face,
the 3rd ring has ears coming down to almost touch , eliminating the possibility of the chain
getting wrapped around the BB spindle and getting jammed there..
Last edited by fietsbob; 03-17-13 at 12:32 PM.
#6
Senior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 358
Likes: 0
#7
weirdo
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,962
Likes: 5
From: Reno, NV
I`m guessing the hollow BB Deore will be slightly lighter than Sugino + BB. On the other hand, since you prefer friction shifting, you might prefer the more "classic" look of the Sugino. The Deore looks modern without question. Availability might be an issue for you also. As far as I know, the Deore trekking cranks have never made it to North American distributors, so if you`re on this side, would need to be ordered from a European retailer (minor added time and expense) and replacement rings won`t be as easily available as for the 74/110 setup. My understanding is that Suginos and VO cranksets are as hard to source in Europe as the 4-arm trekking sets are in NA.
#8
I am leaning toward a more classic look at this time but I was thinking there might be a noticeable difference in feel between the two. Amazon.com carries the trekking cranksets if anyone is interested in them.
The frame I'm using is an all-rounder called the Handsome Devil. I got the frame yesterday and will take it to the LBS this week for the initial steps of the build (primarily headset installation) and then I'll spend a few weeks collecting the last bits and pieces.
The frame I'm using is an all-rounder called the Handsome Devil. I got the frame yesterday and will take it to the LBS this week for the initial steps of the build (primarily headset installation) and then I'll spend a few weeks collecting the last bits and pieces.
#9
Senior Member

Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 505
Likes: 7
From: Portland, Oregon
Bikes: Cannondale Topstone gravel bike Dahon MU folder w/2x8 speed internal drive train
Get the Shimano. It will shift much better and parts are universally available.
The Sugino is designed for 8 speed chains and one of the spider arms is hidden under the crank arm and can be a bit of a trick to remove plus the outer chain ring is not universally available and small town LBS probably will not have the inner ring either.
The Sugino is designed for 8 speed chains and one of the spider arms is hidden under the crank arm and can be a bit of a trick to remove plus the outer chain ring is not universally available and small town LBS probably will not have the inner ring either.
#10
I would always choose the internal tapered cartridge BB over the external bearing type for one reason: Durability.
In my experience, the former last about 10 years, while the latter last about *one* year.
In my experience, the former last about 10 years, while the latter last about *one* year.
#11
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,310
Likes: 29
From: The Pearl of the Pacific, Mexico
Bikes: '12 Rodriguez UTB Custom, '83 Miyata 610, '83 Nishiki Century Mixte (Work of Art), '18 Engin hardtail MTB
I've done a couple of "retro" builds over the last year. In both cases I have gone with Shimano touring cranksets. If my memory serves me right, I believe you can only go as low as 24t with Sugino and 20t with Shimano. Possibly the only drawback with Shimano Deore M590 is the feeling of putting a "cheap" crankset on a nice build. In reality, however, the M590 has been working smoothly after a couple of thousand miles. At least in my eyes, it doesn't look out of place either. BTW, the M590's weight is very competitive, if that matters to you: 960 grams including the B.B. that comes with it (nice pluses in my book.) In the latest build, went with a rare NOS XT hollowtech II touring crankset (geared 48-36-26.) In regard to durability, there are several members here who attest putting 10-15K miles before replacing their hollowtech II BB. From previous research, it seems like one will indeed get more mileage out of a square taper, but again, the Hollowtech II is not too shabby. I find the Hollowtech II stuff really easy to install/replace (I travel with my bike quite a bit.)
I'll share a couple of pics of my retro builds with modern Shimano Hollowtech II cranksets below. BTW, the version in anodized silver cranks is the way to go for this type of builds, IMO.
Build with Deore M590 Crankset:

Build with XT "Touring" Crankset:
I'll share a couple of pics of my retro builds with modern Shimano Hollowtech II cranksets below. BTW, the version in anodized silver cranks is the way to go for this type of builds, IMO.
Build with Deore M590 Crankset:

Build with XT "Touring" Crankset:
Last edited by Chris Pringle; 03-18-13 at 12:36 AM.
#12
weirdo
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,962
Likes: 5
From: Reno, NV

(Especially if one of them happens to have a cool crown logo!)
#13
Banned
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 43,586
Likes: 1,380
From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
Of course where you go will influence spare parts availability..
sub Saharan Africa, Argentine Pampas and Andes, maybe not so up to the minute in trends..
north "merca, western 'Yurp maybe so...
sub Saharan Africa, Argentine Pampas and Andes, maybe not so up to the minute in trends..
north "merca, western 'Yurp maybe so...
#14
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,310
Likes: 29
From: The Pearl of the Pacific, Mexico
Bikes: '12 Rodriguez UTB Custom, '83 Miyata 610, '83 Nishiki Century Mixte (Work of Art), '18 Engin hardtail MTB
What do you me by this, fietsbob? Sugino's square taper BB is still easy to find. I believe same goes with finding replacement chainrings. Shimano, well, it's just ubiquitous ANYWHERE in the world. Hollowtech II is now found even in their low end line. So in this regard, it seems to me availability of spare parts is a moot point with either crankset.
#16
Mad bike riding scientist




Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 29,136
Likes: 6,180
From: Denver, CO
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
I'm not sure what best sub-forum would be for this question but "touring" is my best guess, given what I know about the equipment that is commonly used.
I'm getting a bike built from the frame-up and the last real component I need to choose is the crankset. I plan to use friction shifters so indexing compatibility is not an issue.
The two cranksets I've narrowed down to are the Deore Trekking 48/36/26 and the Sugino XD-2/XD600 46/36/24 / 46/36/26. Either will give me the gearing range I want so I'm looking solely at the effects of the crankset and bottom bracket on ride feel.
The Deore is an external BB Hollowtech crankset and the Sugino is square taper. Will there be a substantial difference in the feel of these two set-ups? Will the differences be too small to really notice?
My rides will be anthing from a few miles around the neighborhood to 20-50 mile group rides. I won't be hauling anything besides myself and typical items like water bottles, spare tube, etc...
I'm getting a bike built from the frame-up and the last real component I need to choose is the crankset. I plan to use friction shifters so indexing compatibility is not an issue.
The two cranksets I've narrowed down to are the Deore Trekking 48/36/26 and the Sugino XD-2/XD600 46/36/24 / 46/36/26. Either will give me the gearing range I want so I'm looking solely at the effects of the crankset and bottom bracket on ride feel.
The Deore is an external BB Hollowtech crankset and the Sugino is square taper. Will there be a substantial difference in the feel of these two set-ups? Will the differences be too small to really notice?
My rides will be anthing from a few miles around the neighborhood to 20-50 mile group rides. I won't be hauling anything besides myself and typical items like water bottles, spare tube, etc...
no big difference, But the External bearing type crank has the tubular spindle fixed to the right crank arm
the bearings are exposed to stuff coming off the front wheel, mudguards will cut back on that,
get their mudflap down close to the ground...
feel? you will feel modern since it's the latest stuff..
square taper there are more competing brands, some of the better ones, have superior weather sealing..
they have to be chosen in consideration of what crank is chosen.
the bearings are exposed to stuff coming off the front wheel, mudguards will cut back on that,
get their mudflap down close to the ground...
feel? you will feel modern since it's the latest stuff..
square taper there are more competing brands, some of the better ones, have superior weather sealing..
they have to be chosen in consideration of what crank is chosen.
That's not been my experience. I'll agree that sealed bottom brackets can last forever but that goes for internal or external. Both units are extremely durable.
__________________
Stuart Black
Dreamin' of Bemidji Down the Mississippi (in part)
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Dreamin' of Bemidji Down the Mississippi (in part)
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#17
Bus Stop Ratbag
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: Northern Maine
I would go with Shimano! I have had a 180mm XT hollowtech II crankset on my single speed mountain bike for a couple years, I've neglected it and have been quite hard on it, yet it still spins as freely and reliably as day one!! It's sealed very well and has been the most trouble free crankset I've ever used. Just sold my SS and the only thing I kept was the XT, I just put it on my cargo bike as it is so realiable and trouble free.
#18
Senior Member

Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 505
Likes: 7
From: Portland, Oregon
Bikes: Cannondale Topstone gravel bike Dahon MU folder w/2x8 speed internal drive train
To test my assertions, you might want to go into your LBS and see if they have any OME Sugino compact outer chainrings in house and 74mm inners for that matter? Then ask what they can offer you in 104/64 rings – outer, middle and inner? When Race Face went bankrupt a few years ago I switched to a standard Shimano Hollowtec crankset (SLX) with only smile as a result.
End note: Race Face was reorganized by some of its employees and I have changed my worn out OME SLX Shimano chainrings over to Race Face. RF makes some very nice, durable, smooth shifting rings.
#19
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,310
Likes: 29
From: The Pearl of the Pacific, Mexico
Bikes: '12 Rodriguez UTB Custom, '83 Miyata 610, '83 Nishiki Century Mixte (Work of Art), '18 Engin hardtail MTB
^^^^
Thank you for adding important value to the discussion. So, this is another big point in favor of Shimano Hollowtech II cranksets. I will be switching to Race Face chainrings when mine wear out. I've heard more than once that RF chainrings are nice and durable. MTBers love most of their product line-up.
Thank you for adding important value to the discussion. So, this is another big point in favor of Shimano Hollowtech II cranksets. I will be switching to Race Face chainrings when mine wear out. I've heard more than once that RF chainrings are nice and durable. MTBers love most of their product line-up.
#20
Sugino 74&110 bcd chainrings are readily available in a wide range of teeth from any QBP-affiliated bike shop:
https://classic.aebike.com/product-li...03-m2007-qc30/
I've used RF rings and they did not impress me as anything special. Truvativ and Shimano rings are just as good and less expensive.
https://classic.aebike.com/product-li...03-m2007-qc30/
I've used RF rings and they did not impress me as anything special. Truvativ and Shimano rings are just as good and less expensive.
Last edited by seeker333; 03-18-13 at 02:53 PM.
#21
Banned
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 43,586
Likes: 1,380
From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
Any chainring machined out of 7075-T6 aluminum will be fine .. TA and Campag
and many others use that Alloy to make chainrings ..
just get the types ramps and lift pins if you need those,,
and many others use that Alloy to make chainrings ..
just get the types ramps and lift pins if you need those,,
#22
#23
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,310
Likes: 29
From: The Pearl of the Pacific, Mexico
Bikes: '12 Rodriguez UTB Custom, '83 Miyata 610, '83 Nishiki Century Mixte (Work of Art), '18 Engin hardtail MTB
Thank you for the compliment, Gerv! The dream would have been a Herse crankset for this build, but at the end of the day function won over form (and budget reality sunk in!) It's hard to beat Shimano cranksets when it comes to their installation, ease of travel (it's coupled frame), availability of replacement parts worldwide (live in Mexico), etc.
#24
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
From: Trenton On
Bikes: 2010 Cannondale T1, 1998 Specialized FSR
I've got the XD2 46/36/24 on my Cannondale T1 and it works fine and lasts a long time. I wouldn't have a problem with going to a Modern Shimano setup either. Just make sure that your mechanic properly faces the bottom bracket shell before installing an external bottom bracket. If the faces are not perfectly parallel to each other then the bearings will probably wear out prematurely.
I use friction shifters on my bike. They are simple to install and use but were somewhat touchy when I was using a 10 spd cassette. I've since switched to a 9 spd and it seems to be less finicky. I went with friction shifting because I was doing a lot of mix and match with the drivetrain and friction shifting basically eliminates compatibility issues. Al
I use friction shifters on my bike. They are simple to install and use but were somewhat touchy when I was using a 10 spd cassette. I've since switched to a 9 spd and it seems to be less finicky. I went with friction shifting because I was doing a lot of mix and match with the drivetrain and friction shifting basically eliminates compatibility issues. Al
#25
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 7,579
Likes: 6
From: Pearland, Texas
Bikes: Cannondale, Trek, Raleigh, Santana
corwin1968, If you are going to use an indexed FD shifter, pick the Shimano. If not, pick whichever you prefer.
The external BB is fairly new and as such hasn't yet established a reputation for reliability amoung tourers, but there shouldn't be a problem IMHO. It is a PIA to R&R the chainrings on a Sugino crankset, but that's not an everyday task.
Brad
The external BB is fairly new and as such hasn't yet established a reputation for reliability amoung tourers, but there shouldn't be a problem IMHO. It is a PIA to R&R the chainrings on a Sugino crankset, but that's not an everyday task.
Brad



