Handlebar width
#1
Thread Starter
Tom
Joined: Jun 2007
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Handlebar width
I'm considering Nitto 123aa for a deep drop bar for track use. (Not many alloy bar options to fit my 26.0 stem). I noticed that the range of widths available is narrower than I expected.
Is a narrower bar somehow preferable for bunch races (to squeak through marginally narrower gaps)? Or is it because NJS bars are made for a market of slightly narrower racers? (European brand track bars are generally 40cm or wider.)
Is a narrower bar somehow preferable for bunch races (to squeak through marginally narrower gaps)? Or is it because NJS bars are made for a market of slightly narrower racers? (European brand track bars are generally 40cm or wider.)
#2
Some general ramblings on the subject.
Generally speaking, stems are cheaper than handlebars. I assume that you have a bike that requires a 1" threaded stem (Nitto Pearl?). A quill stem and B123AAs will make a DEEEEEP drop that may not be comfortable. Looks nice, but not comfy. If you switch to a quill to threadless adapter then your stem + handlebar combinations are GREATLY increased. Yes, it may not look pretty, but no one will be able to catch you to tell you about it, hahaha.
If you are really considering racing, I'd suggest trying bars in your hands before you buy them. Bars come in 1cm increments for a reason.
But, to answer your question, people generally go for the same or slightly more narrow bars on the track.
Here is a teammate's bike which uses a stem adapter:

Chrome Paris Sport-1.jpg
These are B125s (more shallow that B123s and B123AAs). Imagine where the B123 bars will put her hands...now imagine if she had a downward facing quill stem.
In short, if you intend to race, stop in for a bike fitting. You'll save money that way. By the way, 80-90% of bars used in local track races are road bars.
Generally speaking, stems are cheaper than handlebars. I assume that you have a bike that requires a 1" threaded stem (Nitto Pearl?). A quill stem and B123AAs will make a DEEEEEP drop that may not be comfortable. Looks nice, but not comfy. If you switch to a quill to threadless adapter then your stem + handlebar combinations are GREATLY increased. Yes, it may not look pretty, but no one will be able to catch you to tell you about it, hahaha.
If you are really considering racing, I'd suggest trying bars in your hands before you buy them. Bars come in 1cm increments for a reason.
But, to answer your question, people generally go for the same or slightly more narrow bars on the track.
Here is a teammate's bike which uses a stem adapter:
Chrome Paris Sport-1.jpg
These are B125s (more shallow that B123s and B123AAs). Imagine where the B123 bars will put her hands...now imagine if she had a downward facing quill stem.
In short, if you intend to race, stop in for a bike fitting. You'll save money that way. By the way, 80-90% of bars used in local track races are road bars.
Last edited by carleton; 05-02-10 at 07:08 PM.
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,700
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From: Kanazawa
Bikes: Marin Stelvio, Pogliaghi SL, Panasonic NJS, Dolan DF4, Intense Pro24 BMX
Nitto track bars are 25.4mm diameter, not 26.0. If you want to use them you'll need the adaptor shim. And I think narrow is nice on the track. I've got 40cm NIttos now (road bike is 44), but I'm thinking of getting 39's.
#4
Thread Starter
Tom
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 80
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The current bar is a B115 with Nitto shims and is 42cm, like my other bikes. 40cm bar would bring each hand in 10mm.
#5
Thread Starter
Tom
Joined: Jun 2007
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These days, with the stem all the way in, it is fine for general riding. But now the brakes are off for racing and I'm not low enough. I'm holding the front of the hooks and bending my elbows way down to get the position I need.
It seemed to me that swapping a B115 for a B123 would give me 30mm more drop and a bit more reach -- a step in the right direction. There's an ebay vendor sells them for about $55, which isn't bad.
Thanks for your comments, btw. The track director is a former fit tech so I'll ask him about it before I buy anything.
Last edited by thefsb; 05-02-10 at 09:22 PM. Reason: typo
#7
Thread Starter
Tom
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 80
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#8
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,700
Likes: 87
From: Kanazawa
Bikes: Marin Stelvio, Pogliaghi SL, Panasonic NJS, Dolan DF4, Intense Pro24 BMX
Hmm. The whole lot looks several centimeters too short to me. However, I think in the last photo your back is too flat-- try pushing back on the bars to get your pelvis more vertical (though maybe the bars are too close to do that effectively). But it does look too high, too short. This might be one of the rare cases where a Nitto drop stem makes sense. But honestly the frame looks like a touring bike.
Any one else have thoughts?
Dig the jersey!
Any one else have thoughts?
Dig the jersey!
#9
Thread Starter
Tom
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
It is like a touring bike. That was the riding position I was aiming for when I specified the frame. Perhaps it's not so smart to reuse this fame for racing.
New bar and/or stem might get me in position. But if I spend the same money on rental bikes at the track (which are nice Fuji Comp bikes) that would probably be enough to get me through to the big races in August.
The jersey is, I think, from 1987, the first year of Z-Peugeot (it doesn't have "vetements enfants" above the Z on the front), 2 years before Robert Millar joined.
New bar and/or stem might get me in position. But if I spend the same money on rental bikes at the track (which are nice Fuji Comp bikes) that would probably be enough to get me through to the big races in August.
The jersey is, I think, from 1987, the first year of Z-Peugeot (it doesn't have "vetements enfants" above the Z on the front), 2 years before Robert Millar joined.
#10
I agree that he very well may need a nitto drop stem.
Also, for race bikes, people tend to set their bars such that their hands are over the front axle (give or take a few CM).
Have you been to the track with it in it's current state? How does it handle? Twitchy/sluggishly?
Also, for race bikes, people tend to set their bars such that their hands are over the front axle (give or take a few CM).
Have you been to the track with it in it's current state? How does it handle? Twitchy/sluggishly?
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