Power meter?
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,214
Likes: 1
From: Baltimore, MD
Bikes: 2010 GT Tachyon 3.0
Power meter?
Should I get a power meter? I want a cheap one that does its job; I'm not interested in a $1800 übermeter installed in the rear hub or whatnot. Rear hub Shimano compatible I guess, but then you know... can I replace the freewheel? Is it a good freewheel? etc.
There's those handlebar ones, but I hear they're not great.
I just sometimes feel that when my hybrid hits the back trails, I'm putting a hell of a lot more force on the pedals and keeping my speed constant... 14mph on level mud/crushed rock/dirt at around 90 cadence (I back off slightly, I still need a cadence meter)... whereas on the road I seem to be all over.
It's come to my attention recently that I have no clue what I'm doing going up and down hills, sometimes pushing too hard, pedaling too fast, draining myself to near-death and heart failure climbing hills; and then pedaling hard downhill while recovering. Even on somewhat level ground I'm not sure I keep a good pace, and I feel like I'm doing less work and getting more tired than when I'm burning calories off road yet handling it just fine.
It seems to me that if I'm putting out less power, I should not get more tired; and if I put out more power, I should not get less tired. I cannot imagine any other direct measure that will tell me exactly what load I'm putting on my body. Speed doesn't do it. Cadence doesn't do it. Body temp, heart rate, whatever, those won't do it. The mechanism is constant: my body is producing X amount of power through a fixed mechanical means, end of story. That's the most meaningful measurement I can think of.
Do I need one? Should I get one? What should I get? I don't want to spend over $1000 on something like this. Something cheap and good. Used is good if the unit is durable.
There's those handlebar ones, but I hear they're not great.
I just sometimes feel that when my hybrid hits the back trails, I'm putting a hell of a lot more force on the pedals and keeping my speed constant... 14mph on level mud/crushed rock/dirt at around 90 cadence (I back off slightly, I still need a cadence meter)... whereas on the road I seem to be all over.
It's come to my attention recently that I have no clue what I'm doing going up and down hills, sometimes pushing too hard, pedaling too fast, draining myself to near-death and heart failure climbing hills; and then pedaling hard downhill while recovering. Even on somewhat level ground I'm not sure I keep a good pace, and I feel like I'm doing less work and getting more tired than when I'm burning calories off road yet handling it just fine.
It seems to me that if I'm putting out less power, I should not get more tired; and if I put out more power, I should not get less tired. I cannot imagine any other direct measure that will tell me exactly what load I'm putting on my body. Speed doesn't do it. Cadence doesn't do it. Body temp, heart rate, whatever, those won't do it. The mechanism is constant: my body is producing X amount of power through a fixed mechanical means, end of story. That's the most meaningful measurement I can think of.
Do I need one? Should I get one? What should I get? I don't want to spend over $1000 on something like this. Something cheap and good. Used is good if the unit is durable.
#2
It's not worth it unless you are racing and you are willing to spend the time reading and researching to understand how to use it, and then spend the time analayzing your data.
If your goal is to burn calories, go ride more. 23 miles a week is not much.
If your goal is to burn calories, go ride more. 23 miles a week is not much.
#3
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,214
Likes: 1
From: Baltimore, MD
Bikes: 2010 GT Tachyon 3.0
No, my goal is to figure out why the heck I'm working so hard and loving it, and then working less hard and dying from it, and then working MORE hard and recovering.
My perception doesn't line up to reality, apparently. I'm trying to get numbers to explain what I'm doing wrong.
My perception doesn't line up to reality, apparently. I'm trying to get numbers to explain what I'm doing wrong.
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 6,341
Likes: 326
From: Mountain View, CA USA and Golden, CO USA
Bikes: 97 Litespeed, 50-39-30x13-26 10 cogs, Campagnolo Ultrashift, retroreflective rims on SON28/PowerTap hubs
Unless you just want to maximize the use of your time to become faster to keep up with a local group ride, gain fitness so you burn more calories faster, or just because it feels good and you are willing to have some structure to your riding which can change according to what comes out of your bike computer and the following data analysis on your PC.
Used first generation Powertaps have also depreciated to the point where a lot of people could justify one as an impulse purchase just because they're curious. They might figure out what happens to perceived exertion with some fatigue in their legs, discover that sometimes although it feels tough they can dig deeper, find that they can go harder on their hard days when they keep the easy ones easy enough, and average more power when pacing off power than perceived exertion or heart rate.
Used first generation Powertaps built into wheels with the electronics package ($200-$250) can cost less than a Garmin and some brand new wireless ANT+ power meters (Powertap Elite+ for $700 + $20 of spokes to build into an existing rim or Power2Max crankset for 690 euros) are in-line with "nice" wheelsets recreational cyclists upgrade too and way less expensive than plastic bikes which don't make them any faster than what they were riding for the preceding decades.
Reading Training and Racing with a Power Meter would be a fine idea if the price of a power meter is significant to you. That way if it's not for you you're only out $20.
6-8 hours a week is enough to avoid slowness and isn't hard to fit into a normal lifestyle.
Used first generation Powertaps have also depreciated to the point where a lot of people could justify one as an impulse purchase just because they're curious. They might figure out what happens to perceived exertion with some fatigue in their legs, discover that sometimes although it feels tough they can dig deeper, find that they can go harder on their hard days when they keep the easy ones easy enough, and average more power when pacing off power than perceived exertion or heart rate.
Used first generation Powertaps built into wheels with the electronics package ($200-$250) can cost less than a Garmin and some brand new wireless ANT+ power meters (Powertap Elite+ for $700 + $20 of spokes to build into an existing rim or Power2Max crankset for 690 euros) are in-line with "nice" wheelsets recreational cyclists upgrade too and way less expensive than plastic bikes which don't make them any faster than what they were riding for the preceding decades.
and you are willing to spend the time reading and researching to understand how to use it, and then spend the time analayzing your data.
If your goal is to burn calories, go ride more. 23 miles a week is not much.
Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 05-25-11 at 06:41 PM.
#6
Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Based on your post, I would recommend a heart rate monitor and a few good books, like Chris Charmichael The Ultimate Ride and Joe Friel Ultimate Heart Rate Training.
I too would love a power meter. But they are expensive and I spend equal time on road and mountain bikes. I'm into data, it's a motivator for me. I like to record/analyze my workouts.
I too would love a power meter. But they are expensive and I spend equal time on road and mountain bikes. I'm into data, it's a motivator for me. I like to record/analyze my workouts.






