qmsdc15

I don't know what Velo Orange is but your bike does not have oversized frame tubes. If these clamps are designed for attaching water bottle cages to bicycle frames, it's inexcusable that they aren't long enough. Return them and get your money back.

politicalgeek

For 3 bucks, it's not worth the hassle. I can save for another bike if they don't work. It's just a really awkward method-but I'll play with it some more.

ETA

Just spent some more time. It does work, just takes a LOT of patience and fussing. Once it's clamped down, it seems very strong. I have the cage shimmed with a piece of inner tube sandwiched between the cage and the bike. Unfortunately I lost a screw and the matching washer, so the one cage is only half way there. Might leave the one on the top tube underneath the saddle. We'll see.

politicalgeek

Quick question? Geared properly (chainring and cog) what are the limits of a 3 speed style bike? I know people ride fixed and single speed bikes on centuries.

Thinking of biking to class, which was never a thought until filling up my gas tank yesterday. Now, looking at the map, a ride to campus doesn't look impossible. Nice 15 mile ride or so through gentle hills (at least I assume, we are at the edge of the Hocking Hills in SE Ohio) and farm land. Trying to figure out if I should stick with my gears or if my AW hub will be fine.

Thoughts?

noglider 

Let's get back to basics. Why are you thinking of making the change?

The drawback to an old 3-speed hub, as I see it, is that there are only three gears, and they may not be suitable for your terrain or conditioning. The better condition you are, the more you want your gears to be closely spaced. The AW hub has a high gear of 33% that is higher than the middle gear, and it has a low gear that is 25% lower than the middle gear. Those jumps are fine for many people but too wide for me. I would end up using only one gear, except that on very steep uphills, I'd use low gear and on very steep downhills, I'd use high gear.

If your derailleurs are in working order, there's no sense in replacing them in anticipation of their failure.

politicalgeek

One, I like IGH a lot better from the bikes I have ridden.

As far as ride and terrain, I have been playing with the gear calculator at Sheldon's site and come up with a couple combinations with the front chainring and rear cog that would give me low, high and middle pretty similar to what I ride currently. Really, I was just contemplating doing the 10-12 mile ride to work, which I think would be doable at the gear ranges, along the bike path. Then I got the shock of gas prices and started looking at the possibilities of biking more. Which throws me for a loop.

I am thinking of just getting a rear 700c for the back and keeping it a 10 speed at the moment. Then look at other options. I'm looking at all my options. One of the great things I love about bikes (especially since I look more for the vintage deals) is the ability to set up 2-3 for different riding conditions. Ideally this bike will be a nice townie cruiser/utility for those shorter rides/campus beater, then build up a geared bike for the distance and something for the winter.

noglider 

So what have you done with this bike so far?

politicalgeek

Waiting for parts, really. Trying to look at all my options and what my needs are. I should have new handlebars this weekend, then a trip to the co-op to work on the install and brake work. Front wheel build by the end of the month.

politicalgeek

New bars came today. Spent some time this afternoon getting them on:





Like them so far, from just doing laps in the cul de sac. I'll stop by during the open shop time tomorrow to scrounge the parts bin for new brake levers.

NormanF

Go with modern Shimano Nexus or Sturmey Archer 8 speed hubs. They will give you more range and more speeds than were available on the old 3 speeds.

politicalgeek

I've thought of it. The idea is to do this a bit on the cheap. I'm waiting for a price on a nice Dunelt 3 speed, so I may just end up keeping this a geared bike and save the 3 speed hub for the Dunelt.

wahoonc

Maybe...maybe not. FWIW I set the center gear on most of my 3 speeds close to what I use for comfortable flat land cruising and go from there. It has worked for me for many years and many miles. I used to race and yes in a racing, sport riding or even touring I can see where more gears in even steps is an advantage, but would not discount the advantages of the IGH.

Aaron

noglider 

Don't get me wrong. I love IGH's, and I'm very happy to read about the resurgence and the new offerings out there now. I'm eager to try a modern one, with narrowly-spaced gears. I still have an AW in my parts bin and don't know what I'll ever do with it. I suppose I'm keeping it out of sentimentality.

wahoonc

I am riding the hell out of mine The bike I currently have with me is my Raleigh Twenty with the AW hub on it. I probably have more miles on the AW than any other combination of bikes. I rode one over 15,000 miles in a 4-5 year period. Still have it and still ride it on occasion. I guess it boils down to what works for each person. I can ride a 24 speed at a fairly constant cadence and then swap to a 3 speed that you have to mash.

Aaron

politicalgeek

Finally got around to getting a real camera out and taking some good pictures.

Saturday was the first real ride with the new bars. I like them, I just need a new stem-too much strain on my neck. Yesterday I took the wrench and loosened the clamp and adjusted the angle of the bars. The part with the grips is too low for comfort, but the section with the brake levers feels just about right when I tooled around the cul de sac. I've also found that the stem shifters are very awkward with this bike. Thankfully Riv Bike has a $13 pair of friction thumb shifters that will move them to the bars.

So stem and shifters will probably be next on this. Then wheels, bottom bracket and gears. Looking at tweaking the front chainrings to something much more usable. Especially when it looks like I am going to be doing some fun hill climbing in the fall.

Also added the rack I had with a folding wald basket. I like it, but may still consider running the wald dual rear basket setup. More than anything, just to run a few blinkies on the back and make me more visible. Also got the water bottle cages moved around. Might add a third so I can eventually run an air horn. (Well, I am going to be commuting out in the country...)

Finally got around to adding my front strobe and bell on and picked up a cheap cycle computer at Walmart.






I think as I said, it's kind of evolved from what I originally had in mind as I've thought more about where I will be riding and how much I want to do. Still keeping with the original intent of having a good, jack of all trades kind of bike that can serve well for the commute and just about anything I can throw at it.

ETA

BTW, if I have those Serfas Lock On grips installed incorrectly, please let me know.

noglider 

Your brake levers are way above the top of the handlebars! It looks like you have to bend your hands backwards into an awkward position to brake. The normal set up is to have them just under your fingers so you have to move your fingers minimally and your wrists not at all.

politicalgeek

I'm still playing with it. The levers were 2 bucks at the co-op, so if these don't work I can always toss them in a parts bin and find another set.

They seemed to work for me on the ride this past weekend. Time will tell.

Doohickie

Let's just say that I know the feeling. My Varsity is just about done from a functional standpoint (I probably need to get more of the rust off, but from a distance of 5 feet or more all you see is chrome shine). My list:

Schwinn Varsity: Free (from city dump)
Two newish-looking, vintage-looking tires: Free (traded with Mr_Christopher for some old pedals I had)
A pair of Wald rear baskets I had on my Raleigh DL-1: Free
Tourist-style handlebars with tan/orange grips from an old Huffy: $10 (for the whole Huffy)
A pair of Pyramid touring bike levers: $6.11
New cables with white housings: $5.97
New derailleur cable clamp screw: $.49
Seat: TBD (the LBS really wants me to buy a Brooks for this old bike...)

So for a total investment of $22.57, I have this (pic from just before I put the new cables & brake levers on):



Boy, does it ride smooth!

Like I said, I know the feeling!