Difficult riding
#1
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From: Indiana
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Difficult riding
The snow has arrived in northern Indiana, and my daily commute has gotten difficult. For some of my commute, I travel the sidewalks. Unfortunately, the sidewalks have frozen foot prints that make traveling them difficult. Has anyone rode over these conditions without problems? I'm thinking a single speed fat bike might do the trick. I would prefer a plus bike for the lighter weight, but it seams like many people say it isn't fat enough. Riding in the street safely isn't a option. Also, have any of you had to get off and walk because you couldn't ride thru the lumpy frozen snow? What are your thoughts?
#2
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From: Madison, WI
Bikes: Giant Toughroad SLR1 and Motobecane Sturgis NX
For frozen footprints and ice the fatbike wouldn't help, you need studded tires. The fat tires would help in deeper snow for sure. But when you are on pavement, it may be plowed anyway.
Find out what your city snow removal policy is for bike paths. But even with snow removed, there sill can be ice. I rather be stuck in deep snow than to fall on ice and break my wrist. Try studded tires on your current bike.
If there is a lot of salt and wet, use the oldest bike you can get.
Single speed sounds like a horrible idea, you need lot of torque to stamp through deep snow, and want to go faster when the path is clear.
Find out what your city snow removal policy is for bike paths. But even with snow removed, there sill can be ice. I rather be stuck in deep snow than to fall on ice and break my wrist. Try studded tires on your current bike.
If there is a lot of salt and wet, use the oldest bike you can get.
Single speed sounds like a horrible idea, you need lot of torque to stamp through deep snow, and want to go faster when the path is clear.
#3
For frozen footprints and ice, I'd go with studded MTB tires run at a low pressure - studs to help with traction, lower pressure for float over particularly bumpy portions.
I have had to get off and walk a few times - large piles of snow and brown stuff can be hard. Each year I get a bit better at plowing over things without wiping out.
If you single speed, you'll probably want a ridiculously low gear. My winter bike is currently a single speed; it's geared low enough to plow over snow, which can be mildly annoying when riding on clear surfaces. Fortunately, there's usually some sort of snow or ice to ride through!
I have had to get off and walk a few times - large piles of snow and brown stuff can be hard. Each year I get a bit better at plowing over things without wiping out.
If you single speed, you'll probably want a ridiculously low gear. My winter bike is currently a single speed; it's geared low enough to plow over snow, which can be mildly annoying when riding on clear surfaces. Fortunately, there's usually some sort of snow or ice to ride through!
#4
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From: Toronto
Bikes: Sekine 1979 ten speed racer
Studded fatbike tires for me. I ride through stuff like that alot. The trails I ride through aren't maintained. Same goes for sidewalks that are plowed but still messy. So after a few days, they're full of frozen footprints. It feels the same as my neighbourhood street where it's full of ruts and footprints.
Go slow. Stay careful. Don't be in any hurry.
Go slow. Stay careful. Don't be in any hurry.
#6
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I’ve been experiencing my very first winter riding days with studs. But even with studs, one has to be careful; sometimes I just want to play it safe especially turning/crossing roads, or bumpy slippery areas. Again, these are my first experiences so I still have a lot to learn.
Off topic perhaps, but more of a problem has been the fogging of my glasses...
#7
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From: Indiana
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For the record, I'm on a ridged mountain bike with 26 x 1.95 tires. The first time I crossed the sidewalk on the bridge, the foot prints caused me to fishtail all the way across the bridge. It was a heck of a workout, but I stayed on the bike. It was like going over tightly placed whoop t do's that were kicking my back tire around. Another time I was able to get between the outside wall and the foot prints. I know the other side of the foot prints has large chunks of cement that are now covered with snow. Yesterday and today, I was unable to do either and ended up walking. I think with a fat bike the bumpiness would have less affect on me. And, yes studs would definitely help. If I ride tomorrow, I may see if I can get more speed going across it.
#9
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From: Madison, WI
Bikes: Giant Toughroad SLR1 and Motobecane Sturgis NX
This is a good base for winter riding. Suspensions suffer from winter (salt, wet, oil viscosities etc.). and unless we talk deep snow, tire width should be fine. If you had started your thread as one "looking for winter bike", your bike would have been a good suggestion (besides a fatbike).
Studded tires also should be much cheaper in 2" than fat bike studded tires, or a new fat bike. Not sure if you have a second bicycle. But when you have weeks with clear roads, you may not want to use studs for long distances (though, nothing wrong with it). Really depends how your paths look like in real life every winter day.
Studded tires also should be much cheaper in 2" than fat bike studded tires, or a new fat bike. Not sure if you have a second bicycle. But when you have weeks with clear roads, you may not want to use studs for long distances (though, nothing wrong with it). Really depends how your paths look like in real life every winter day.
#10
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From: Indiana
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This is a good base for winter riding. Suspensions suffer from winter (salt, wet, oil viscosities etc.). and unless we talk deep snow, tire width should be fine. If you had started your thread as one "looking for winter bike", your bike would have been a good suggestion (besides a fatbike).
I prefer ridged bikes for that reason. This is the first winter I've ever rode across something that caused me to have to walk.
Studded tires also should be much cheaper in 2" than fat bike studded tires, or a new fat bike. Not sure if you have a second bicycle. But when you have weeks with clear roads, you may not want to use studs for long distances (though, nothing wrong with it). Really depends how your paths look like in real life every winter day.
I prefer ridged bikes for that reason. This is the first winter I've ever rode across something that caused me to have to walk.
Studded tires also should be much cheaper in 2" than fat bike studded tires, or a new fat bike. Not sure if you have a second bicycle. But when you have weeks with clear roads, you may not want to use studs for long distances (though, nothing wrong with it). Really depends how your paths look like in real life every winter day.
#11
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From: Ottawa, Canada
Bikes: Raleigh Classic 15, 84; Miyata 912, 85; Miyata Ridge Runner SE, 85; Miyata 610, 86; Miyata 100M, 86; Miyata Valley Runner, 88; Miyata Triple Cross, 89; GT Karakoram, 90; Miyata Elevation 300, 91; Marinoni Touring, 95; Long Haul Trucker, 2013
Sometimes you just have to walk a bit. Rough ice underneath loose snow is a tough go.
I have 2 winter bikes. My "fair weather" winter bike has Continental Top Contact Winters for clear cold days.
But most days I ride with studded tires (2" Marathon Winters). I find they carry me through most things in a Canadian winter. In a city, most riding, most days, is on pavement—even in winter. But one usually have to deal with some ruts, some slush and some patches of ice.
For daily riding I think I'd find a fat bike to be a bit much.
I have 2 winter bikes. My "fair weather" winter bike has Continental Top Contact Winters for clear cold days.
But most days I ride with studded tires (2" Marathon Winters). I find they carry me through most things in a Canadian winter. In a city, most riding, most days, is on pavement—even in winter. But one usually have to deal with some ruts, some slush and some patches of ice.
For daily riding I think I'd find a fat bike to be a bit much.
Last edited by John Nolan; 12-13-17 at 08:52 PM.
#12
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Joined: Sep 2015
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From: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Bikes: TrueNorth CX bike, 88 Bianchi Strada (currently Sturmey'd), Yess World Cup race BMX, Pure Cruiser race BMX, RSD Mayor v3 Fatbike
Sometimes you just have to walk a bit. Rough ice underneath loose snow is a tough go.
I have 2 winter bikes. My "fair weather" winter bike has Continental Top Contact Winters for clear cold days.
But most days I ride with studded tires (2" Marathon Winters). I find they carry me through most things in a Canadian winter. In a city, most riding, most days, is on pavement—even in winter. But one usually have to deal with some ruts, some slush and some patches of ice.
For daily riding I think I'd find a fat bike to be a bit much.
I have 2 winter bikes. My "fair weather" winter bike has Continental Top Contact Winters for clear cold days.
But most days I ride with studded tires (2" Marathon Winters). I find they carry me through most things in a Canadian winter. In a city, most riding, most days, is on pavement—even in winter. But one usually have to deal with some ruts, some slush and some patches of ice.
For daily riding I think I'd find a fat bike to be a bit much.
[MENTION=342047]baldilocks[/MENTION], is there a way to avoid the trouble spot? A different route you can ride on the street? If not, you likely need to walk the trouble section - I hate to admit defeat on these types of things as well, but it's a never-ending arms race - you'll need 2WD eventually.
#13
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Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Ottawa, Canada
Bikes: Raleigh Classic 15, 84; Miyata 912, 85; Miyata Ridge Runner SE, 85; Miyata 610, 86; Miyata 100M, 86; Miyata Valley Runner, 88; Miyata Triple Cross, 89; GT Karakoram, 90; Miyata Elevation 300, 91; Marinoni Touring, 95; Long Haul Trucker, 2013
I'm too cheap for Marathons too. I was using Winters, but one sidewall tore on me. I got my Marathons on kijiji for $50 for the pair, from a guy who was given them as a gift, and, judging from their condition, used them once.






