Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

tips for removing fixed cup bottom bracket?

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

tips for removing fixed cup bottom bracket?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-08-11, 05:22 PM
  #1  
:p
Thread Starter
 
Harun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: bay area
Posts: 356
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
tips for removing fixed cup bottom bracket?

I have an older bike with an adjustable type bottom bracket. I've managed to take off the adjustable side (the lockring and adjustable cup), but I'm having trouble removing the fixed cup.

this is the tool I've been trying to remove it with (the 36mm wrench side): https://www.parktool.com/product/cran...t-wrench-hcw-4

The adjustable side required some force to remove but I got it loose the first try. The fixed side is another story. And yes, I'm turning the right way - since I know the BB is English threaded. I'm just afraid I'm going to pull something.

actually after going through Sheldon Brown's page on bottom bracket tool tips, I've realized that the tool i posted might not be effective enough to remove the fixed cup.

tl;dr should I just bring it to the shop where they probably have the right tool to remove the fixed cup?
Harun is offline  
Old 10-08-11, 05:24 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,848
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
I would use a vice and use the frame as a lever, the stuff some out right away.
ultraman6970 is offline  
Old 10-08-11, 06:38 PM
  #3  
Happy go lucky
 
trevor_ash's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Illinois
Posts: 286

Bikes: 2010 Nagasawa (Track), EAI Bareknuckle (Track), Custom Jonny Cycles (Track), 90's Eddy Merckx (Road), 2002 Colnago Tecnos, 200? Felt F60 (Road), 1992 Schwinn Paramount Series 3 (Road)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Leverage is what you need. A couple home brew options that work if you don't have a vice.

1. Use bolts and (very wide) washers through the cup to attach the tool to the cup. This will eliminate any side ways loss of torque and greatly help.
2. If #1 is still not sufficient, pry bar time. I've used a 2 inch steel pipe with that tool before. Yes it's awkward because 2" is way too much but good luck finding a pipe between 1" and 2".

I'm not a fan of Sheldon's bolt method. I'm not sure what supplies and cups he was working with when he discovered that but, yeah good luck with that (hint: bolts will spin since there's nothing for them to grip on).
trevor_ash is offline  
Old 10-08-11, 07:58 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
 
Stannian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Ohio
Posts: 111

Bikes: Surly Long Haul Trucker

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
VAR makes a tool that makes it very simple, but the tool probably costs $100. Our shop has one and I use it all the time and love it. Ask if your bike shop has one, I would only charge you $5 if you brought it to me with the cranks out.
Stannian is offline  
Old 10-09-11, 07:38 PM
  #5  
Old fart
 
JohnDThompson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,788

Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.

Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3588 Post(s)
Liked 3,400 Times in 1,934 Posts
The first question you should ask yourself is "is it really necessary for me to remove the fixed cup?"

Unless you have a compelling reason to do so, just leave it in place. Clean it out in place, replace worn bearings and/or spindle, repack and enjoy.
JohnDThompson is offline  
Old 10-09-11, 07:54 PM
  #6  
Constant tinkerer
 
FastJake's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 7,954
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 185 Post(s)
Liked 92 Times in 75 Posts
+1

Why do you want to remove the fixed cup? Unless you are replacing the whole BB with a cartridge unit it is not necessary.
FastJake is offline  
Old 10-09-11, 08:38 PM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Haunchyville
Posts: 6,407
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked 10 Times in 6 Posts
Originally Posted by trevor_ash
I'm not a fan of Sheldon's bolt method. I'm not sure what supplies and cups he was working with when he discovered that but, yeah good luck with that (hint: bolts will spin since there's nothing for them to grip on).
It works very well. The bolts spin until it is tight enough, but it will seize and cup and turn it at some point.
canam73 is offline  
Old 10-09-11, 09:19 PM
  #8  
Friendship is Magic
 
3alarmer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 22,984

Bikes: old ones

Mentioned: 304 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26424 Post(s)
Liked 10,380 Times in 7,208 Posts
Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
The first question you should ask yourself is "is it really necessary for me to remove the fixed cup?"

Unless you have a compelling reason to do so, just leave it in place. Clean it out in place, replace worn bearings and/or spindle, repack and enjoy.
Originally Posted by FastJake
+1

Why do you want to remove the fixed cup? Unless you are replacing the whole BB with a cartridge unit it is not necessary.
If you have asked yourself this question, and still wish
to proceed, look here:

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...2#post11769729

Originally Posted by canam73
It works very well. The bolts spin until it is tight enough, but it will seize and cup and turn it at some point.
Regrettably, this is not always the case. Trust me because
I've done a bunch of these in my life and on a frame where the
sucker has been in place for twenty or thirty years (or was
installed somewhere along the line with loctite),
you need some way to whack the thing subdue it.
__________________
3alarmer is offline  
Old 10-10-11, 07:12 AM
  #9  
Noob
 
mikezs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Essex, UK
Posts: 76

Bikes: Specialized Rockhopper Expert Disc 2009, Ridgeback Nemesis (Afine 8) 2011

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
I removed a particularly stubborn one the other day with a set of Mole Grips/Locking Pliers. It's pretty much all I had to hand and worked a treat! They locked onto the flats very well (after a clean) and gave good leverage if I was careful
mikezs is offline  
Old 10-10-11, 08:43 AM
  #10  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656

Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!

Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times in 742 Posts
I'll assume you really do need to remove the fixed cup so here is how I do it. This is basically the way that trevor_ash mentioned but i'll fill in the details.

Get a 4" long 5/8" bolt, a nut and two large diamerer washers.

1. Remove the adjustable cup, spindle and bearings and then thread the adjustable cup back in a several turns.
2. Put one washer on the bolt and feed the bolt through the adjustable cup and out the fixed cup.
3. Place your bottom bracket wrench over the flats on the fixed cup and then add the second washer to the bolt outside of the wrench.
4. Thread on the nut snugly to trap the bb wrench between the frame and the washer.
5. You can then apply a lot of torque to the wrench without fear of it slipping. I found the use of a heavy mallet on the wrench as an impact tool was very effective.
6. As soon as the fixed cup turns even a little bit, back off the nut as your loosen it further.
HillRider is offline  
Old 10-10-11, 10:03 AM
  #11  
Happy go lucky
 
trevor_ash's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Illinois
Posts: 286

Bikes: 2010 Nagasawa (Track), EAI Bareknuckle (Track), Custom Jonny Cycles (Track), 90's Eddy Merckx (Road), 2002 Colnago Tecnos, 200? Felt F60 (Road), 1992 Schwinn Paramount Series 3 (Road)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by HillRider
I'll assume you really do need to remove the fixed cup so here is how I do it. This is basically the way that trevor_ash mentioned but i'll fill in the details.

Get a 4" long 5/8" bolt, a nut and two large diamerer washers.

1. Remove the adjustable cup, spindle and bearings and then thread the adjustable cup back in a several turns.
2. Put one washer on the bolt and feed the bolt through the adjustable cup and out the fixed cup.
3. Place your bottom bracket wrench over the flats on the fixed cup and then add the second washer to the bolt outside of the wrench.
4. Thread on the nut snugly to trap the bb wrench between the frame and the washer.
5. You can then apply a lot of torque to the wrench without fear of it slipping. I found the use of a heavy mallet on the wrench as an impact tool was very effective.
6. As soon as the fixed cup turns even a little bit, back off the nut as your loosen it further.
Precisely! Thanks for taking the time to post that.

BTW, I forgot to mention that ever since I purchased Park's Bearing Cup Press tool I've been using that instead. It just so happens that the main axle fits through the cups I typically work with. https://www.parktool.com/product/bearing-cup-press-hhp-2.
trevor_ash is offline  
Old 10-10-11, 02:44 PM
  #12  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 6,660
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 582 Post(s)
Liked 171 Times in 138 Posts
Originally Posted by ultraman6970
I would use a vice and use the frame as a lever, the stuff some out right away.
The only time I had to remove one this is the way I did it.
davidad is offline  
Old 10-10-11, 04:54 PM
  #13  
Bianchi Goddess
 
Bianchigirll's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
Posts: 27,858

Bikes: Too many to list here check my signature.

Mentioned: 192 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2930 Post(s)
Liked 2,926 Times in 1,491 Posts
Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
The first question you should ask yourself is "is it really necessary for me to remove the fixed cup?"

Unless you have a compelling reason to do so, just leave it in place. Clean it out in place, replace worn bearings and/or spindle, repack and enjoy.
Originally Posted by FastJake
+1

Why do you want to remove the fixed cup? Unless you are replacing the whole BB with a cartridge unit it is not necessary.
I'll second this!! there is a reason it is called a fixed cup. without a slightly longer handle on that Park tool and something (or some one) to hold it in place you may never get the fixed cup off.

I don't see any mention of threading? is this English or Italian? are you turning in the correct direction?
__________________
One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"

Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
Bianchigirll is offline  
Old 10-10-11, 06:03 PM
  #14  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656

Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!

Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times in 742 Posts
Originally Posted by Bianchigirll
I don't see any mention of threading? is this English or Italian? are you turning in the correct direction?
This was addressed in the OP. He said he knows the bb is English threaded and is turning (or attempting to turn) the fixed cup in the proper direction.
HillRider is offline  
Old 10-10-11, 08:18 PM
  #15  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Haunchyville
Posts: 6,407
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked 10 Times in 6 Posts
Originally Posted by 3alarmer
Regrettably, this is not always the case. Trust me because
I've done a bunch of these in my life and on a frame where the
sucker has been in place for twenty or thirty years (or was
installed somewhere along the line with loctite),
you need some way to whack the thing subdue it.
Then you need longer wrenches.
canam73 is offline  
Old 10-10-11, 10:07 PM
  #16  
Friendship is Magic
 
3alarmer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 22,984

Bikes: old ones

Mentioned: 304 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26424 Post(s)
Liked 10,380 Times in 7,208 Posts
Originally Posted by canam73
Then you need longer wrenches.
Sure. Whatever you say.
__________________
3alarmer is offline  
Old 10-11-11, 06:39 AM
  #17  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656

Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!

Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times in 742 Posts
Originally Posted by canam73
Then you need longer wrenches.
3alarmer's advice to "whack the thing..." is good. Impact and shock will often loosen stuck fittings better than slowly applied torque. There is a reason automobile tire shops all use impact wrenches to remove wheel nuts.
HillRider is offline  
Old 10-11-11, 09:27 AM
  #18  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Haunchyville
Posts: 6,407
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked 10 Times in 6 Posts
Originally Posted by 3alarmer
Sure. Whatever you say.
I say it has worked for me everytime I've gone to it which included bikes up to 30 y.o. with rusty threads. And I do use a long armed ratchet and end wrenches. On one I did brace the frame on the carpeted floor of my basement while still clamped in my stand and had to tap on the drive side wrench to get it loose. But regardless, getting the nut tight enough to seize on the cup is not an issue if you're doing it right. I do agree that there are cases in which just strength may not be enough to break whatever has sealed the threads. I have contemplated using an pneumatic impact wrench to get things moving but have not had to resort to it yet.

For what it's worth, the worst case I have come across I took to a shop and they tried and failed to get it loose. They had tried the vice method but were worried about bending the frame with too much pressure and stopped. The mechanic suggested that if it were his he would attempt to put grooves in the cup with a cut wheel in a dremel and then literally crush it loose with the vice. I ended up getting it loose with the nut/bolt/washer rig so I can't comment on if the mechanics method would actually work. But for some reason I want to try it.

Last edited by canam73; 10-11-11 at 02:21 PM.
canam73 is offline  
Old 10-12-11, 11:20 AM
  #19  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: England, currently dividing my time between university in Guildford and home just outside Reading
Posts: 1,921

Bikes: Too many to list here!

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by canam73
The mechanic suggested that if it were his he would attempt to put grooves in the cup with a cut wheel in a dremel and then literally crush it loose with the vice. I ended up getting it loose with the nut/bolt/washer rig so I can't comment on if the mechanics method would actually work. But for some reason I want to try it.
Weirdly enough, so do I! Maybe grinding the lip off the cup with a dremel might be a possibility as well, it should relieve all the tension in the threads and allow the Sheldon method to remove the cup, even if it's rusted in. That's assuming you can get the lip off the cup without grinding off so much metal that the outer part of the cup comes off and leaves the threaded section in the BB shell, which I don't know about.
Airburst is offline  
Old 10-12-11, 11:44 AM
  #20  
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,598

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,355 Times in 862 Posts
there are tool holders, that use the end of the bb spindle to hold the BB wrench on the fixed cup.

then the wrench won't slip off the flats, on the fixed cup , and you can put an extension
on the end of the wrench ..
fietsbob is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
vonfilm
Classic & Vintage
3
04-28-14 09:30 AM
obrentharris
Classic & Vintage
24
02-19-13 09:09 PM
maso85
Bicycle Mechanics
3
11-18-12 01:26 PM
princip
Bicycle Mechanics
11
11-08-11 05:01 PM
bikemore
Classic & Vintage
7
04-25-10 01:37 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.