Currently working on this one:
A few more bits and bobs to add and still looking for the right touch-up paint. You can read about it here: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...aleigh-Superbe
Let us know if you find the touch-up paint. I need to repaint the rack and chainguard on my wife's Superbe.
Hey I gotta question. You know those gold warp-around stickers that Raleigh was using in the 1970s? When did they first start using those? I am seeing a rod-brake model for sale that is claimed to be from the 1950s, but it has some of those stickers on it and I am thinking that there is no way its that old. The frame looks very nice, good paint and decals, plus two of those gold wrap-around thingys on the seat tube. I'm thinking its been redone or else its from somewhere other than the UK- India perhaps?
This is the mockup of my Raleigh Sports. I wound up using a Shimano spindle instead of the very-grumbly original, especially when I found the Thailand reproduction crank was kind of crappy. 700c Sun rims, 700x37 Continental Eco Contact Plus tires.
"Ahab knew, baby...I lust." -- Vet-san
michael k, can we see more pictures of that saddle on the Space Rider? It's interesting.
1. 1974 Raleigh Sports frame and fork, with headset and bottom bracket, and that's all. The headset cleaned up well. Leaving the paint alone, since it's not in bad shape except for "patina". Replaced the very rough Raleigh spindle with a 73mm Shimano and 6mm ball bearings, per Sheldon Brown. That worked out perfectly. Cold-set the fork and the rear dropout to accommodate newer hubs.
2. 700c Sun rims, laced by a LBS to a new S-A AW hub in back and a NOS Maillard hub up front. I originally intended to rebuild an old AW hub, but for what gathering together all the sundry bits and pieces (cable, shifter, clamps, indicator chain, etc.) would cost, I could buy a complete new AW kit. Besides, I was never able to get the old ('72) hub I got to shift, no matter how much I soaked it or in what. I'll tear it apart eventually to fix it, but I wanted to move on with this project. Don't know yet what size of sprocket I'm going to use yet.
3. 700x37 Conti Eco Contact Plus tires, which were the largest I could fit. Cheap, durable, and made for heavier loads (like me). I think I read somewhere that they have a lower profile, which is probably why these fit but the 700x37 Schwalbe Marathons I originally had did not. A shame, cuz I really like the Marathons I have on my MTB commuter.
4. Lasco SS crank, 170mm, 42t chainring. I had to move the ring to the inside of the spider for a better chainline. I was originally going to use a repro Raleigh crank (from Thailand), but when I received it, it didn't appear to be very well-made and the left crank hit the frame. Besides, the original cottered spindle was very grumbly, no matter how much I polished it.
5. Old SR stem, Nitto moustache bar, old Shimano 600 brake levers, S-A bar-end shifter (not shown). I'm going to use brown Newbaum's cloth tape, with finishing wraps of linen twine, and finish it with shellac. That'll probably be the last thing I do.
6. New Tektro 559 brakes. These were very nearly too long, I should've waited until I had rolling wheels before ordering them. Kool-Stop salmon&black pads. Jagwire cables.
7. Lightly-used Brooks B17 saddle, 400mm Vavert alloy seatpost (inexpensive, adequate). I didn't know how the bike was going to fit me, so I got the longest cheap seatpost I could find. In retrospect, it didn't need to be so long, but it's light enough to not matter.
8. Don't know what pedals I'll use yet.
It's not set in stone, but I do have a rough plan I'm working off of. I just wanted to put together a bike to have fun building and riding. Even with the Raleigh frame, it's not very heavy.
"Ahab knew, baby...I lust." -- Vet-san
I'm thinking...the darker brown Brooks B17 or B66 and matching leather stitched handgrips. I considered the honey but someone who parks their bike next to me at work has one and the colour just doesn't look natural. Thoughts on either saddle? The B66 is definitely more of a cruiser style but the B17 has a sportier, touring side to it. B17 would require a new seatpost whereas the B66 could re-use the seatpost. I'm not particularly attached to the clamp on seatpost style so it isn't much of concern.
+1 on the B66
Many of the parts still came from England but it was enough to allow a Made in Canada sticker.
Canada had some rather repressive import duties which increased the price of Raleighs and other imports compared to our domestically produced CCM bicycles.
Sekine also started producing bicycles in Manitoba to meet demand and to overcome shipping issues from Japan... they really made nice quality bicycles for all too short a time.
Procycle also manufactured Peugeots under license here for a good period of time.
Four gold bands were added to Sports models in 1965-1968, then went down to 2 in 1968-1972. http://www.theheadbadge.com/ . I'm assuming DL-1s were about the same.
The pedals with reflectors are a giveaway, too.