For the love of English 3 speeds...
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It was good to flood the AW hub with oil initially, but from now on, it will only require a few drops each season. In the long run, the hub shell will get dirty and need a cleaning, but there won't be any puddles.
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No offense, lol, but this frame is like a soggy noodle. Which, for the intended purpose is not a disadvantage, the ride is soft and pleasant and even a little sporting (possibly because my frame is the 21 gives it a taughter feel). I like it and will quite enjoy it.
Does everything of British origin be required by some law, perhaps in the Magna Carta it is codified, that oil leaking is specified? Is a puddle of oil under the SA mandatory? My wife does not particularly care for this charming trait .
Does everything of British origin be required by some law, perhaps in the Magna Carta it is codified, that oil leaking is specified? Is a puddle of oil under the SA mandatory? My wife does not particularly care for this charming trait .
I find that a nice 1950s SA hub holds its oil "pretty well" (by seeming British standards of the day- I used to own a BSA Super Rocket and an Ariel Squarefour) and the bearing quality is equal to that of Campy no worries. The frame on my Humber seems quite a bit stiffer too.
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Laced up a new set of CR 18s last night to the SA hubs. What a great rim...had zero problems. My friend I did this with (cause he knows what he is doing, I do not, but now I know some) had some cool green nipples I used for the rear and the two spokes surrounding the valve stem hole on the front. If anyone ever steals it, at least it should make for an easy and unique ID. They aren't really that noticeable unless you take a good look.
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They are great rims but for the life of me, I can't leave those stickers on.
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@Fenway, that's a pretty special bike you have there. Are you running your modern lights with an old 1.8w dynamo hub? How well does that work? I wouldn't have thought it possible.
The lights don't turn on at a walking pace, but if I spin the front wheel by hand they seem to work.
Edit: Fitted the water bottle cage. Fully kitted out exactly the way I want him now.
Last edited by Fenway; 04-08-16 at 07:29 PM.
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Its my opinion that the later years of Raleighs 3-speed production did them no favors. Tolerances in the SA hubs was not as good and it does seem that they leak more. The frames got whippier too. At least you know that if there is no puddle, its likely because its out of oil.
I find that a nice 1950s SA hub holds its oil "pretty well" (by seeming British standards of the day- I used to own a BSA Super Rocket and an Ariel Squarefour) and the bearing quality is equal to that of Campy no worries. The frame on my Humber seems quite a bit stiffer too.
I find that a nice 1950s SA hub holds its oil "pretty well" (by seeming British standards of the day- I used to own a BSA Super Rocket and an Ariel Squarefour) and the bearing quality is equal to that of Campy no worries. The frame on my Humber seems quite a bit stiffer too.
You know, I took the thing apart, there really are no seals, once the oil level rises above the lip of the sides, the drive side in particular, I cannot see that oil would not spill out.
It is not that the frame feels weak, but there is not that springiness that I feel in my road bikes, I can get in plane with them, not sure with the Raleigh. But, it was not meant for that sort of riding so I am not being critical that I say it feels comparatively soft against by Pinarello. Plus there is the mush of the tires, I only have 50 psi in them. Maybe bump that up when I buy a more quality tire for it.
The Sun rims are the bomb!
J
Last edited by Loose Chain; 04-09-16 at 01:06 AM.
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I have an old Rudge that's in line for CR-18s. Do you mind if I pick your brain? What spokes did you use? Did you use washers to add thickness to the flange walls? was it the usual 40H and 32H with a 3x pattern? If so, I'd like to know what length spokes you used. Thanks
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I have an old Rudge that's in line for CR-18s. Do you mind if I pick your brain? What spokes did you use? Did you use washers to add thickness to the flange walls? was it the usual 40H and 32H with a 3x pattern? If so, I'd like to know what length spokes you used. Thanks
I have another bike and it is 32/40 but I have not started on it yet. It could be a ways down the road while I work on my Guerciotti SLX.
J
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I have an old Rudge that's in line for CR-18s. Do you mind if I pick your brain? What spokes did you use? Did you use washers to add thickness to the flange walls? was it the usual 40H and 32H with a 3x pattern? If so, I'd like to know what length spokes you used. Thanks
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Well said! I agree about the weight thing. Not much you can do when you start with that frame, and all the steel components. I suppose you could spend a fortune on alloy stuff, and maybe bring it down to as little as 28 lbs - but that would completely change the character of the bike, and probably not for the better.
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Are cork grips acceptable on a Raleigh. I find the original grips difficult to grip, plain and simple. They are hard and of small diameter. My hands are not so big but a touch of arthritis and all that and they just do not close down without tiring on the small grips.
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Are cork grips acceptable on a Raleigh. I find the original grips difficult to grip, plain and simple. They are hard and of small diameter. My hands are not so big but a touch of arthritis and all that and they just do not close down without tiring on the small grips.
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I've rebuilt a couple of SA hubs into modern rims, I think the last time I used 272mm spokes in a 3 cross pattern. I didn't write it down anywhere but I have an empty 272mm bag of spokes kicking around and I don't think the math works out to use that size in any other wheels I've built. I used stainless m2 washers under my spokes on the rear, next time I do a dynohub I'll try building that with washers. I grab my washers from any fastener store, they are pretty cheap.
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I've rebuilt a couple of SA hubs into modern rims, I think the last time I used 272mm spokes in a 3 cross pattern. I didn't write it down anywhere but I have an empty 272mm bag of spokes kicking around and I don't think the math works out to use that size in any other wheels I've built. I used stainless m2 washers under my spokes on the rear, next time I do a dynohub I'll try building that with washers. I grab my washers from any fastener store, they are pretty cheap.
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Are cork grips acceptable on a Raleigh. I find the original grips difficult to grip, plain and simple. They are hard and of small diameter. My hands are not so big but a touch of arthritis and all that and they just do not close down without tiring on the small grips.
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It is not that the frame feels weak, but there is not that springiness that I feel in my road bikes, I can get in plane with them, not sure with the Raleigh. But, it was not meant for that sort of riding so I am not being critical that I say it feels comparatively soft against by Pinarello. Plus there is the mush of the tires, I only have 50 psi in them. Maybe bump that up when I buy a more quality tire for it.
The Sun rims are the bomb!
J
Are cork grips acceptable on a Raleigh. I find the original grips difficult to grip, plain and simple. They are hard and of small diameter. My hands are not so big but a touch of arthritis and all that and they just do not close down without tiring on the small grips.
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Tested my bike today with the 6v 1.8w GH-6 Dynohub. While the lights initially wouldn't kick on at walking speed (as they do with a modern 6v 3.0w dynamo hub), at riding speed the tail light was immediately at full brightness and the headlight after a minute or two was at either full or at least decent output. Once the stand-light capacitors at riding speed the lights stayed lit for the standard ~5 minutes and then would function the same as a full power dynamo at walking speed (slight flicker). So it seems the downside to using one of these older dynamos is that at least until the stand-lights capacitors are fully charged the headlight won't have full output and that the capacitors probably take a little bit longer to fully charge. But at least otherwise they seem to work fine with modern LED lighting from B&M.
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Anything after 1974 or so.
One thought is to grease the bearings, which helps to hold the oil in. But you don't need so much oil that it can breach the lip of the sides.
I found that the lower pressure tires gave a soft ride, but were for sure slowing me down. Some people don't like the Michelins because of their reflective strip, but the additional tire pressure makes for a more sporting ride.
I have the same problem. I have a set of Brooks leather grips on my bike. I got them for Christmas which is good because I would have paid almost as much for them as I did the bike itself. They are look nice and a lot more comfortable. I put cork on one of my Humber Sports and it definitely looks the part, and might be more comfortable than the Brooks.
One thought is to grease the bearings, which helps to hold the oil in. But you don't need so much oil that it can breach the lip of the sides.
I found that the lower pressure tires gave a soft ride, but were for sure slowing me down. Some people don't like the Michelins because of their reflective strip, but the additional tire pressure makes for a more sporting ride.
I have the same problem. I have a set of Brooks leather grips on my bike. I got them for Christmas which is good because I would have paid almost as much for them as I did the bike itself. They are look nice and a lot more comfortable. I put cork on one of my Humber Sports and it definitely looks the part, and might be more comfortable than the Brooks.
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I really like the feel of the cork grips. They are not as durable as rubber (I did not shellac mine) but they are very comfortable.
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So on cork grips do y'all use varnish, shellac, or nothing?
Do you put them on with the hairspray?
J
Do you put them on with the hairspray?
J
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I used nothing on the cork itself, and they went on a little loose on the bars so I put a couple of strips of tape spaced a couple inches apart and they are nice and firm now
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Last edited by DQRider; 04-09-16 at 11:28 PM.
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Tested my bike today with the 6v 1.8w GH-6 Dynohub. While the lights initially wouldn't kick on at walking speed (as they do with a modern 6v 3.0w dynamo hub), at riding speed the tail light was immediately at full brightness and the headlight after a minute or two was at either full or at least decent output. Once the stand-light capacitors at riding speed the lights stayed lit for the standard ~5 minutes and then would function the same as a full power dynamo at walking speed (slight flicker). So it seems the downside to using one of these older dynamos is that at least until the stand-lights capacitors are fully charged the headlight won't have full output and that the capacitors probably take a little bit longer to fully charge. But at least otherwise they seem to work fine with modern LED lighting from B&M.
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