dbakl

Can you just replace the locknuts with some "toothier"?

dbakl

Hate to say, but I agree. Locknuts and skewers are designed to hold the wheel solid. But not actually seeing the problem its pretty impossible to diagnose.

zandoval 

Got me again - Went over it all again cause I was doing a first ride on a UNIVEGA I just put together - Guess what - Rear wheel slipping - Not as bad as when I weighed 284# but still slipping just a little when chugging up hill - My solution was to simply increase friction at the drop out by using a 24mm, malliable, rust proof, alloy, washer with a 3/16th hole - Now no more slipping - In summary the quick release did not have enough surface area coming on contact with the drop out to really hold, as a matter of fact I am surprised that they hold at all considering the cross section of the area of friction - For the washer I tried steel (too hard), Aluminum (to soft), Brass (broken), star washer (disintegrated), but my special alloy washer is working just fine... By the way, George likes to ride too...

AREAS OF CONTACT WITH DROP OUT

Barrettscv 

That's awesome!

I'm hoping that moving the axle back will help solve the problem. The contact between the drop-out and the lock-nut & quick-release looks like what you have in the picture. That's not going to hold the wheel when I stand on the crank!

Michael

lord_athlon

I have 2010 Shimano 105 skewers holding the wheel in my centurion solid. Its not the skewer. It could be bottoming out and the newer skewer is deeper in its bore. If it isnt holding, it isnt clamped sufficient enough. it is a very simple design. File a mm off the axle end and try again, or try it without the springs. Something is stopping it from clamping.

miamijim

From my years of shop experience:

1. Once the dropout faces get messed up/galled your screwed as the locknut and skewer will always want to migrate back to their original positions. Sometimes resurfacing with a file is needed.
2. Axles should extend 1/2 to 2/3 across the width of the dropout. File axle ends as needed.
3. Use only high quality skewers with internal cam mechanisms.
4. Thoroughly grease/lub the cam mechanism.

Barrettscv 

Thank you.

MACAQUE

maybe you could use a chain tensioner designed for horizontal dropouts.

i've only seen the ones designed for track forks in real life, but have seen pictures of some designs for multigeared horizontal dropouts.

something like this: https://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/FSOOCT/on-one-chaintug

MACAQUE

or maybe just machine a "spacer" of sorts to fit in between the gap from the end of the dropout to your skewer.

lord_athlon

I I weigh 250, and have no slippage on any of my bikes.

Barrettscv 

That looks like a good solution. It's the only one I've seen for forward facing dropouts & geared bikes.

Here is a picture of one installed, as provided by zandoval: https://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...hmentid=185905

zandoval 

Dead ON!!! - Thanks you just got me to go out and check my sons UO-8 - Now he doesn't need a washer...

MACAQUE

totally missed page 2. haha, sorry for posting redundantly.

Barrettscv 

Not an issue, I was unable to find a source, and you pointed to one. Thank you.

zandoval 

This is to pick up on multiple threads that have described solutions for Axle slip and drift - I have had much success with Washers, Resurfacing the drop out, and Chain Tensioners - My best success was with a chain tensioner but I did not like the bulk - I don't change out my tires or wheels once I get them set so what I really needed was just a simple clip (I know someone used to make these) to hold the axle in place - It was very easy to make one from 3/4"x1/16" aluminum stock...

I tested the setup by only applying the QR lightly and took the bike out for a ride and no slip what so ever - I don't think this would be a good set up for some one who changes wheels from bike to bike because the drilled hole is set for only one dimension - But it is very easy to just make another if I need to... (For looks I could also mount it on the inside of the drop out)

Attachment 190960

dbakl

I've been welding on my motorcycle the last few days...

Weld the axle ends to the dropouts!

canopus 

I'm with another poster, get some old Campy Skewers (records) and replace the outer locknuts on the hub to something better (hardened) with better knurling on the face. Another thing you might try it you haven't already is to remove the springs from the skewer and tighten it up without the springs. Maybe take apart the skewer and grease the cam parts for easier tightening but be careful you might overtighten it. I wouldn't trust and washer between the skewer and the frame contact.

Barrettscv 

Hi, A little follow-up;

I just installed the Surly Chaintugg and the fit looks perfect. The Chaintugg looks well-engineered, maybe over-built, but I can live with that.

Part of the reason for using the device is to regain confidence in the bike. I still am convinced that a modern Dura Ace hub is not intended for horizontal drop-outs. The Chaintugg makes it impossible for the axle to slide forward, and that’s what I need.

If I wanted to reduce the risk of the axle sliding forward without a chaintugg, I could take several steps to improve the performance of the system: I could recondition the drop-out, by removing any rust & galling and then repaint. I could also inquire with my all my vintage bike buddies and ask for the beefiest skewer from a 12 speed bike. I hear some of the older Campy skewers from that era are a bit better than modern Shimano, which are the best made now.

However, these steps will not positively reduce the axle from sliding. Having a device that does that is required, this is a safety issue.

Peter_B

There's these vintage Cyclo chain tugs as well...

RobbieTunes

I use the same solution on any bike I think I may have a problem with. The allen wrench allows good tightening.
First, though, I do think the smooth locknuts are helping this to occur, and would probably swap them if able.

Secondly, check to see if that axle is Ti. It tends to flex. I had to replace my Ti axles (on a set of DA hubs) with steel.

20grit

I checked my locknut and it had completely smoothed off all the knurling. I've a cheapo lock nut on there for now and it seems to be fixing the issue.

zandoval 

Boy do I know that feeling - After destroying a good wheel and then repeatedly getting stuck on a hill with a slipped axle I was truly humbled - Lucky not injured - I love the Surly chain tugs - After a while I got to where I was only using one on the drive side - And then I went to my simple aluminum doohickey - Its really a good feeling to know that the only thing keeping you from the top of a hill is you...

rccardr 

Wow, all these responses. I thought I was the only one who had experienced this slippage.

My solution on both bikes (a Trek and a Schwinn) was to resurface the dropout face, cut deeper teeth into the knurling on the lock nut with a Dremel cut-off wheel, and use a completely metal locknut (not a metal plate covered by plastic housing) on the rear skewer.

Does the trick.

miamijim

Nonsense. Shimano designed those hubs well before vertical dropouts became the flavor of choice.