What features would help date a Miyata 1000?
#1
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What features would help date a Miyata 1000?
So - I'm going to take a look at a Miyata 1000 in my neck of the woods in the near future, and am interested in trying to determine a probable year for the bike, and hoping some C&V folks might be able to fill me in.
As of now, I have no pics and very few details other than the fact the bike is ostensibly in very good shape, the brakes, tape, BB, cables and tires recently replaced, has aluminum rims, triple crankset and 5sp on the back. I can only assume that the drive train is original...though I don't know that for sure.
Early or mid-80s, I'm guessing, based on the fact that it's running 5sp, but I really don't know anything about these bikes other than that they're highly regarded (or, frankly, about touring bikes in general). I sort of expect a later 80s or early 90s bike would run 6, 7, or 8sp, but this may be a false assumption on my part.
I understand the the splined, triple-butted proprietary tubing is especially desirable, but was not used until the mid-1980s, so I'll look for any indication of that - but in the absence of any otherwise clear indications...
Any idea what major differences in frame construction or original componentry - if any - might help me date the bike?
As of now, I have no pics and very few details other than the fact the bike is ostensibly in very good shape, the brakes, tape, BB, cables and tires recently replaced, has aluminum rims, triple crankset and 5sp on the back. I can only assume that the drive train is original...though I don't know that for sure.
Early or mid-80s, I'm guessing, based on the fact that it's running 5sp, but I really don't know anything about these bikes other than that they're highly regarded (or, frankly, about touring bikes in general). I sort of expect a later 80s or early 90s bike would run 6, 7, or 8sp, but this may be a false assumption on my part.
I understand the the splined, triple-butted proprietary tubing is especially desirable, but was not used until the mid-1980s, so I'll look for any indication of that - but in the absence of any otherwise clear indications...
Any idea what major differences in frame construction or original componentry - if any - might help me date the bike?
#2
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Digging through all the old posts on the 1000, I found out the 80s Miyata catalogs are all online...unfortunately I can't quite read a lot of the text, especially in the 1986/7 catalogs:
https://www.miyatacatalogs.com/
Looks like it was definitely a 15sp rig up to and including 1985 - but I can't read this info from the next couple of catalog scans - anyone know whether/when 18sp would have taken over in that period?
I also see some color variations for certain years only, plus the fact that it looks like Suntour derailleurs 1981-83, and Deore 1984. So I'm off to a good start...
https://www.miyatacatalogs.com/
Looks like it was definitely a 15sp rig up to and including 1985 - but I can't read this info from the next couple of catalog scans - anyone know whether/when 18sp would have taken over in that period?
I also see some color variations for certain years only, plus the fact that it looks like Suntour derailleurs 1981-83, and Deore 1984. So I'm off to a good start...
#3
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www.vintage-trek.com has a great primer on component dating. Very helpful.
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Dating a Miyata 1000?
Be kind and courteous. I'd brush my teeth beforehand. Flowers wouldn't hurt either.
Be kind and courteous. I'd brush my teeth beforehand. Flowers wouldn't hurt either.
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#5
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The color scheme and components will allow you to zero in using the catalogs. The last pages are the spec sheet grids.
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Take a look at the serial number when you get there- that's the best way. The first letter is the year of manufacture of the frame. "M" is 1984, "N" is 1985, etc. This scheme works for the late '70's to mid/late '80's, at least. If it's 5-speed rear, then it's unlikely to have the splined tubing (doesn't mean it's not a great bike, though).
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When dating the one I had I noticed that decal fonts were different on various years.
#8
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If it's a good price, than get it regardless of the year. Those were great bikes. Sold an 1991 LT1000 for a friend a couple years ago (was too small for me) and it went for almost $800 on ebay.
Fyi as to the decade at least, the 1000 seems to have skipped 1990 and then from 1991 on have bar end shifters instead of DT shifters. If I were you, I'd print up the page from each year's catalog and bring them with you.
Fyi as to the decade at least, the 1000 seems to have skipped 1990 and then from 1991 on have bar end shifters instead of DT shifters. If I were you, I'd print up the page from each year's catalog and bring them with you.
#9
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Thanks for all the responses (I'll make sure to brush my teeth).
Thanks wrk101. Sometimes the most useful technical advice pertains to electronics rather than mechanics. Using a Mac, it wasn't that intuitive (no 'right click' with just one mouse button, though it's possible to bring up an option menu with CTRL+'click') and I tried downloading the .jpegs, etc., without this ever occurring to me. When anything goes wrong...suspect user error first.
Those scans should make this a cinch.
Now that is the kind of advice that might save me some details, or at least a great place to start...I'll look for the serial as soon as I assess the condition as justifying further interest.
It looks like 1985 might have been the move to 6sp rear...the spec sheet and a mention at the bottom of the catalog entry mention 5sp/15sp, though the promotional copy (just above where it says 'Speeds: 15') describes an '18-speed bike,' and the '86 catalog has the 6sp rear on the spec sheet.
1985 is the 1st year listing triple-butted tubing, but doesn't mention splines. 1986 is the 1st listing splined, triple-butted tubing.
In any case, I'm hoping it's one with three sets of bottle bosses and in nice shape, because I know it's my size...
Those scans should make this a cinch.
Take a look at the serial number when you get there- that's the best way. The first letter is the year of manufacture of the frame. "M" is 1984, "N" is 1985, etc. This scheme works for the late '70's to mid/late '80's, at least. If it's 5-speed rear, then it's unlikely to have the splined tubing (doesn't mean it's not a great bike, though).
It looks like 1985 might have been the move to 6sp rear...the spec sheet and a mention at the bottom of the catalog entry mention 5sp/15sp, though the promotional copy (just above where it says 'Speeds: 15') describes an '18-speed bike,' and the '86 catalog has the 6sp rear on the spec sheet.
1985 is the 1st year listing triple-butted tubing, but doesn't mention splines. 1986 is the 1st listing splined, triple-butted tubing.
In any case, I'm hoping it's one with three sets of bottle bosses and in nice shape, because I know it's my size...
#10
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The font on the model name does seem to be a good lead too...
And I'm also hoping it's a 1984/5, I'm thinking, because it appears to have been the half-step 52/47/34 triple 1983 and prior, and moved to 50/40/28 in 1984. Though I do like the Suntour Cyclone stuff on the older bikes.
And I'm also hoping it's a 1984/5, I'm thinking, because it appears to have been the half-step 52/47/34 triple 1983 and prior, and moved to 50/40/28 in 1984. Though I do like the Suntour Cyclone stuff on the older bikes.
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Serial Number is the definitive age. There is a letter before a string of numbers designating the model year.
J=1982
L=1983
M=1984
N=1985
And so on......
Btw, this is on the underside of the bottom bracket.
J=1982
L=1983
M=1984
N=1985
And so on......
Btw, this is on the underside of the bottom bracket.
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you might want to measure the rear dropout width. bikes went to 126mm sometime around 1980. before that it was around 120mm i believe.
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#15
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In any case, the Miyata 1000 was definitely spec'd with a 5sp rear 1981 to 1984 or 1985. I was born in 1983, so I can't really say whether that's representative of what else was in the shops at the time...
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#17
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In any case, it seems the bike has headed home with another lucky soul - for $350, BTW - before my appointment.
I will never know what year it was...and will have to wait for another fine tourer.
I will never know what year it was...and will have to wait for another fine tourer.
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What size and color was the TL1000?
Mike, What size and color was the bike you looked at? I sold mine to a friend and it was stolen from Portland, OR just about the time you were looking at one.... She would be more than thrilled to recover the bike....
#19
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Is the bike your friend had stolen consistent with the very large early 1980s 1000 model I discussed here?
If you feel I can be of service, you can reach me at mikemowbz AT hotmail DOT com and I'll see if I can dig up any info from my email account or cel phone.
#20
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a really long seat post. use lube.
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I also had a Miyata 1000 stolen!
Anyway, it was forest green and I'm almost positive it was a 21 speed (7 back, 3 front). I still have the original receipt with the serial number on it. There's an on-line bike registry that was started by the SFPD - I plan to add my bike to it in case, after 20+ years, it ever shows up.
So the story of how it got stolen was, I was housesitting in Hayward (30 miles from SF) and working in Pleasanton (another 10 miles away) and drove home one weekend to drop off my dog in my apartment so my mom could pick her up - I didn't keep her in Hayward with me because she had separation anxiety. I realized when I got there that I had forgotten my keys so I drove into the back carport and stood on the roof of my car, hoisted myself onto the eaves then shinnied into my apartment through the window. In full view of three other apartment buildings that faced that back area. One directly opposite mine.
Then, to make matters worse, after I put the dog in the apartment I left the window gaping open and drove back to Hayward. The next day my mom called me to ask whether I had taken my bike and VCR with me to Hayward. I hadn't.
I knew that there was this bike mechanic whose apartment faced mine DIRECTLY. He might have seen me climbing in. Anyway I went over to his building and got the owner to let me in and I knocked on the guy's door and even though he was home ... he talked to us through the door but wouldn't open it. And without probable cause, there's no way the police would go and search his apartment. And I couldn't sit outside for 24 hours until he brought my bike out. But I was convinced my bike was inside his apartment. And there was nothing I could do about it.
Dang, even the memory still hurts! Have I mentioned I loved that bike? It felt like a second skin the very first time I rode it.
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