Cross Check single speed rear hub 130 vs 135
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Cross Check single speed rear hub 130 vs 135
Hi all,
I will be building a CC for commuting and other adventures. I want to build a set of single speed wheels with the Velocity A23 rims and probably the Surly ultra new hub. I do have a set of road wheels for geared setup, but would like wider rims for snow tires. Have gotten a little input from MTBR, looking for a road perspective also.
Thanks in advance, MikeB
I will be building a CC for commuting and other adventures. I want to build a set of single speed wheels with the Velocity A23 rims and probably the Surly ultra new hub. I do have a set of road wheels for geared setup, but would like wider rims for snow tires. Have gotten a little input from MTBR, looking for a road perspective also.
Thanks in advance, MikeB
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The hub width doesn't make a difference as to the width of your rims or tires you can use. I vote 130mm just to keep them compatible with other things.
#3
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Since many Road frames are vertical dropouts for compatibility , maybe this is the hub to use
https://www.whiteind.com/eno-single-speed-rear-hubs.html..
the eccentric version .. will tension the chain, within a half link length
in what ever width the rear of the frame happens to be..
https://www.whiteind.com/eno-single-speed-rear-hubs.html..
the eccentric version .. will tension the chain, within a half link length
in what ever width the rear of the frame happens to be..
Last edited by fietsbob; 08-21-13 at 10:06 AM.
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I would say if you are leaning towards road type riding then 130mm might be more appropriate but if you are leaning toward more "adventure cycling" then I'd go 135 since most touring/adventure bikes have 135 dropouts. This is assuming you might want to move the wheel to a more specialized bike in the future.
I will say my bike has 132.5mm forward facing dropouts and I find them to be a PITA. I would much rather just have vertical 135's.
I will say my bike has 132.5mm forward facing dropouts and I find them to be a PITA. I would much rather just have vertical 135's.
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I would say if you are leaning towards road type riding then 130mm might be more appropriate but if you are leaning toward more "adventure cycling" then I'd go 135 since most touring/adventure bikes have 135 dropouts. This is assuming you might want to move the wheel to a more specialized bike in the future.
I will say my bike has 132.5mm forward facing dropouts and I find them to be a PITA. I would much rather just have vertical 135's.
I will say my bike has 132.5mm forward facing dropouts and I find them to be a PITA. I would much rather just have vertical 135's.
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130,you'll need spacers;135,you'll have to spread the frame a little every time you insert the wheel. Decide which you'd rather deal with.
Dude,he's got a Cross Check,they have semi-horizontal dropouts.
Dude,he's got a Cross Check,they have semi-horizontal dropouts.
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Because the wheel comes into the dropout from the direction of the front of the bike, I have to deflate my 40mm tire to get the wheel far enough forward to get into the dropouts. Also, stretching the stays to get the wheel in is a pain. Neither is a huge deal, just a couple of extra steps over using vertical dropouts. If you plan to swap from from SS to geared then those extra steps would be a fair trade-off for that capability. If you already own a bike with this type of dropout then it's likely a non-issue for you.
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Cross Checks have 132.5 rear spacing. Road or mountain hubs will work; couldn't be any easier. I have a 950 series Shimano XTR hub laced to a Velocity Dyad set up singlespeed and no tensioner. Currently shod with 28c Gatorskins, but have a set of 35c City Rides that work really well too.
#9
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Dude,he's got a Cross Check,they have semi-horizontal dropouts.
Excuuuuse Me!
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