Addiction XXXX9
#1451
Mostly Harmless
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#1452
Mostly Harmless
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Location: Chittenango, NY
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Lol, when your spouse doesn't like to talk on the phone and you try to talk with him on the phone from work about the story with the bike, there is a chance you'll wind up posting prematurely.
What Mr H actually said was, "I'll tell you about it when you get home. It was basically what Fuji thought."
1. Brake cable. It's not that it was routed incorrectly. The issue is that the tolerances are very small and the rear brake is located just to the inside of the crankset. What was rubbing was just the extra little bit of brake cable that is left after the cable is run through the caliper. The extra little bit just needed to be bent at a right angle to get the extra it away from the chainrings. If I put wider wheels on the bike, this might rub again, in which case re-crimp it. It may be that it was previously bent as it should be but the type of wire in this particular does not hold a bend well. If necessary, it can be replaced with cable that will hold the right angle bend better.
2. Chain rub. This bike has adjustable dropouts for the rear wheel, this allows you to use tires of different diameters and adjust the position of the wheels such that there is minimal clearance between the tire and the seat tube. This is something you'd adjust for aerodynamic reasons. It turns out that the rear wheel was installed with the dropouts in different positions, so the rear wheel was actually not straight on the bike. This was the source of the chain rub, which is gone now.
Dave the mechanic is reported to be a rockstar. Completely knowledgable about the bike and a fabulous source of information. Excellent first impression.
So that's the actual scoop, not the miscommunication scoop that I posted previously.
The bike is a beautiful, graceful thing, slender like a gazelle. Pics once we get the horrible reflectors off the spokes.
What Mr H actually said was, "I'll tell you about it when you get home. It was basically what Fuji thought."
1. Brake cable. It's not that it was routed incorrectly. The issue is that the tolerances are very small and the rear brake is located just to the inside of the crankset. What was rubbing was just the extra little bit of brake cable that is left after the cable is run through the caliper. The extra little bit just needed to be bent at a right angle to get the extra it away from the chainrings. If I put wider wheels on the bike, this might rub again, in which case re-crimp it. It may be that it was previously bent as it should be but the type of wire in this particular does not hold a bend well. If necessary, it can be replaced with cable that will hold the right angle bend better.
2. Chain rub. This bike has adjustable dropouts for the rear wheel, this allows you to use tires of different diameters and adjust the position of the wheels such that there is minimal clearance between the tire and the seat tube. This is something you'd adjust for aerodynamic reasons. It turns out that the rear wheel was installed with the dropouts in different positions, so the rear wheel was actually not straight on the bike. This was the source of the chain rub, which is gone now.
Dave the mechanic is reported to be a rockstar. Completely knowledgable about the bike and a fabulous source of information. Excellent first impression.
So that's the actual scoop, not the miscommunication scoop that I posted previously.
The bike is a beautiful, graceful thing, slender like a gazelle. Pics once we get the horrible reflectors off the spokes.
#1455
Falls Downalot
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That's because it isn't hot enough in Houston!
#1457
cowboy, steel horse, etc
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https://www.biketiresdirect.com/prod...ndard-crankset
#1458
cowboy, steel horse, etc
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#1460
Should Be More Popular
Join Date: Dec 2007
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#1461
Mostly Harmless
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Fun Fact: The Fuji Norcom Straight is named for a Strava segment near Advanced Sports (Fuji) US headquarters in Philadelphia.
https://www.strava.com/segments/963780
https://www.strava.com/segments/963780
#1462
So it is
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Also. I read this really interesting blog post today. I had recently said to somebody, I can't remember who, must have been my coach because who else would I have this kind of exchange with? Anyway, after my short Tri leg that I rode, I was saying how I liked the TT thing, it is a very different challenge, it's really all about managing your own momentum and not letting your momentum lapse because you have then you have to pop yourself briefly into the red to regain momentum.
Then I read this: Climbing vs time-trialling: same effort, different power output | CyclingTips
Which is essentially saying the same thing. How you can have too types of very steady power outputs- climbing & flat TTing- and they require different types of energy utilization and muscle recruitment patterns. Don't know how 100% true the neuromuscular stuff is, but it rings true- TT efforts are more about constantly topping off power whereas climbing is about constantly producing power.
Tons of interesting implications of this.
For example, the trainer has a long of the same properties as climbing (ie no momentum). So if you set your FTP on a hill or a trainer, it may be somewhat different for a TT effort. Depending on your neuromuscular make up, you may be able to exceed your own FTP for extended periods of time or alternatively not even meet FTP. I would think you'd want to ride a bunch around the edges of your own FTP for different durations and see what is possible.
Also, if you're training for TTs, you may want to do as much of that training as possible on the road at a higher cadence. My first instinct is to do a bunch of work on the trainer to adapt to the position on the bike without worrying about bike handling, and I still may do that. But riding on the road is in theory better.
Interesting food for thought.
Haha, I doubt any of y'all really care too much. Except probably @LAJ.
Then I read this: Climbing vs time-trialling: same effort, different power output | CyclingTips
Which is essentially saying the same thing. How you can have too types of very steady power outputs- climbing & flat TTing- and they require different types of energy utilization and muscle recruitment patterns. Don't know how 100% true the neuromuscular stuff is, but it rings true- TT efforts are more about constantly topping off power whereas climbing is about constantly producing power.
Tons of interesting implications of this.
For example, the trainer has a long of the same properties as climbing (ie no momentum). So if you set your FTP on a hill or a trainer, it may be somewhat different for a TT effort. Depending on your neuromuscular make up, you may be able to exceed your own FTP for extended periods of time or alternatively not even meet FTP. I would think you'd want to ride a bunch around the edges of your own FTP for different durations and see what is possible.
Also, if you're training for TTs, you may want to do as much of that training as possible on the road at a higher cadence. My first instinct is to do a bunch of work on the trainer to adapt to the position on the bike without worrying about bike handling, and I still may do that. But riding on the road is in theory better.
Interesting food for thought.
Haha, I doubt any of y'all really care too much. Except probably @LAJ.
Getting comfy on the TT bike is paramount, and getting to know it on the trainer is just the first step. Finding a nice flat run of road, and spending many quality hours on it was an eye opening time for me. It's always better to ride on the road, but environment, time and life may not always cooperate.
#1463
Speechless
Join Date: Jun 2011
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@Heathpack, that same description is a big part of my fun on the SS. You have to manage momentum, and if you plan poorly, it becomes brutal. It is part of why my cadence varies from 30 to 160 on a group ride, and part of why my former cohort always laughed at my antics.
#1464
Has a magic bike
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I agree with much of that. Hillclimbs and TT's do require output for a time, so in that respect, they teach the mind to continue on. The whole thing is so mental, that if the mind isn't recruited, the rest is history.
Getting comfy on the TT bike is paramount, and getting to know it on the trainer is just the first step. Finding a nice flat run of road, and spending many quality hours on it was an eye opening time for me. It's always better to ride on the road, but environment, time and life may not always cooperate.
Getting comfy on the TT bike is paramount, and getting to know it on the trainer is just the first step. Finding a nice flat run of road, and spending many quality hours on it was an eye opening time for me. It's always better to ride on the road, but environment, time and life may not always cooperate.
So there's what you might want to do in theory and what you wind up needing to do in reality. Two seperate things almost always.
#1465
Brown Jersey Winner
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i mount my lights so theyre under the bars, the lower your source of light is the better you see the surface of the road since shadows cast at a different angle than your POV
but lights ≠ aero so theres also that
but lights ≠ aero so theres also that
#1466
Has a magic bike
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@Heathpack, that same description is a big part of my fun on the SS. You have to manage momentum, and if you plan poorly, it becomes brutal. It is part of why my cadence varies from 30 to 160 on a group ride, and part of why my former cohort always laughed at my antics.
Its a pretty appealing thing to try to do. Overlaps with regular road biking to some degree but it's also it's own unique thing. Sometimes I get assigned long intervals, up to an hour sometimes, with a wide power range. On the road, this is just a long tempo interval and the idea is to just ride normally, keeping it within a certain power range.
Sometimes though I've had one of these long intervals assigned on a day where I have to be on the trainer. To keep that long interval interesting, I try different ways of riding it. Once or twice, I've tried just outputting increasing power by increasing my cadence. Towards the end it gets tough- high power output at high cadence steadily over an extended time period.
I also sometimes do low cadence high power output work. That's pretty tough too.
I never really "got" the SS appeal before. But I think I get it now. Still glad I have gears on the TT bike and I intend to use them for sure.
#1467
Has a magic bike
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For training, it won't really matter whether there's something un-aero on the bike.
#1468
Brown Jersey Winner
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i dun haz tt biek. just talkin lights + bikes in general
wasnt sure how strictly you were gonna stick to keeping everything aero
wasnt sure how strictly you were gonna stick to keeping everything aero
#1469
serious cyclist
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#1470
serious cyclist
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Totally agree about the trainer v road thing. For me, any TT bike workouts assigned M-Th are probably of necessity going to be ridden on the trainer, because for those rides, I'm riding when it's dark. Not sure how successfully you could put lights on a TT bike, you'd block your own light once you're in an aero position, or so I assume. I guess you could get fork lights or something like that. But the whole thing is carbon, I'm not sure about clamping anything to the frame. I'm assuming weekdays will be trainer rides, weekend road rides. We'll see how the whole thing works out logistically in the end.
So there's what you might want to do in theory and what you wind up needing to do in reality. Two seperate things almost always.
So there's what you might want to do in theory and what you wind up needing to do in reality. Two seperate things almost always.
#1472
Has a magic bike
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Headlights, I was talking headlights.
Taillight likely solvable pretty readily, my Dinotte came with a zillion different mounts. Pretty sure one will work for the Fuji.
#1473
serious cyclist
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https://www.serfas.com/products/view/668/refererroducts|index|lights|usb-lights
Last edited by Bah Humbug; 07-22-15 at 09:54 AM.
#1474
So it is
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I love those lights. The headlight is surprisingly bright, and they can be mounted darn near anywhere. Same with the taillight. Good product.
#1475
serious cyclist
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https://www.serfas.com/products/view/668/refererroducts|index|lights|usb-lights
(do note that the rubber/plastic part is available in a variety of colors)