DC Rainmaker's power meter buyer's guide is out:

The Power Meters Buyer?s Guide?2015 Edition | DC Rainmaker

Also, I found this interesting....those Zipp's are awesome but too many watts and you'd go into low gravity. How is it faster than last year? More dimples! All about them dimples.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUdC3mrHcc8

they say they changed the shape of the rims. they also redesigned the hubs. both reduce drag (if you believe Zipp). obviously not much is known yet by anyone other than those at Zipp.

both are somehow rather irksome

everything is based on price and price alone with no mention of historical issues when it comes to reliability. i especially like how he dismisses the more mature products out there (Quarq, SRM, and Pioneer) and also calls the "gold standard" label undeserved.
those pseudo-scientific speed tests are quite misleading. 9% (380 to 345) in savings due to wheels alone at 41kph when wheels usually save ~18W at 30 mph (and more like 13W at 41 kph)? I'm calling BS here

I agree on the second one, and to an extent on the first. I do think he doesn't put enough weight into historical reliability. SRM is a good product, but its also 3x more in cost than Power2Max; in the past that has been his big issue. With no L/R its a no go for me.

Most Powermeter users live in the bubble of the product they own, and he's one of the few people that can critique a product with no bias (keyword is 'can'). He probably takes more value in the new and shiny products, but I do think he was fair with Quarq and Pioneer.

I stopped paying attention to his PM reviews awhile ago.

SRMs may be expensive, but I've had mine for over a year now and have not had to send it in to be repaired once. At this point in my Quarq ownership, I was on my third one. My PowerTap hub also was extremely reliable, lasting a full five years before the torque tube went on me.

My bike's rear shifter ate a cable head yesterday so I finished the second half of the ride on a very tiny, very nice Specialized Tarmac. Even though it didn't fit I could tell that if it did it would feel way better than my current bike, which means it's pretty much inevitable that the n+1 formula will apply sometime this fall.

How do I get my garmin 520 to auto-upload to Garmin Connect after I save the ride?

Currently I have to navigate into the ride (on the 520), find the "Upload Ride" button and click it. Can't it just auto-upload as soon as I save it?

I googled it and got nothing helpful.

I just started doing this with my 510. Sometimes I have to open and close the Garmin Connect app once or twice before it syncs.

There's a setting in the Garmin Connect app, devices / Garmin XXX / device settings / auto upload. Do you have that enabled?

[MENTION=74778]mattm[/MENTION], you have to enable bluetooth and it uses the phone connection to upload.

I stopped doing it because with all my commutes I'm just clogging everyone else's feed.

But if its not on Strava it didn't happen!

underneath my worn-out s-works toupe saddle (after 25k miles, the "leather" had worn through and was rough/wearing my bibs) was this perfectly good, glossy, smooth, 99g carbon saddle. it took a couple hours of labor and some adhesive remover at the end, but saved me $300.

http://i.imgur.com/54zgmmMl.png

Duh that was it, thx man!

I'll kudo your commutes, as long as they're over 9.9 miles! (@ygduf's don't cut it)

Is that the cutoff?? My commute is like 10.1 miles. I'll have to upload these for the kudos.

what my commutes lack in length they more than make up for in frequency and danger.

Your 4.1 mile commute gets more kudos than when I won a race!! /jealous

Awesome 11.5 miles!

I've done [MENTION=125938]Ygduf[/MENTION]'s commute, sketchy area.

So I got into a little scrum at the start of my cross race Sunday and lost a spoke in my front wheel. Unfortunately, the whole nipple pulled through the rim. It's a low profile Vision TC24. Can a carbon rim be repaired? Anyone ever have it done? I sent an email to Ruckus Composites in Portland yesterday but have not heard back yet.

so...pretty sure I just realized why i can't get the seatpost on my cross bike to stay put. i recently switched from using the cable stop that's on the frame for the rear brake to one of the problem solver units (Problem Solvers Rear Cable Hanger w/ Angle Adjuster) as the stop on my frame was too close to the wheel to get my brakes adjusted correctly.

but, i think due to the design of that hanger it's preventing the collar from putting sufficient torque on the seatpost.

current plan is to find a collar where the two ends of the circle don't actually touch so that the hanger doesn't interfere. i think the one from the road bike will work, but right now i'm at work and just speculating. alternatively if that doesn't work, i think i can make something work with a salsa post lock

From what i recall (a teammate went through it earlier this year), most repair places will do rim work as long as it isn't on the brake track. So, there is hope...

So is that what they are calling it these days? Commutes?

well, it's dark, action packed and prone to accidents...

You realize that S-Works products are guaranteed for life, don't you?

I guess naked carbon is more pro.

I feel weird trying to use that warranty on a saddle that I've been using for years, and I prefer the carbon anyway. Not because it's lighter or "more pro" but because it's more slippery so the movement is between my bibs and the saddle, and it's not pulling bibs across skin.

if they sold them that way I'd buy them that way. I tried one of those ebay knock offs but the saddle cracked after ~1000 miles. not exactly the same quality.