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Originally Posted by globecanvas
(Post 18995134)
I have 2 bikes with Wheels Mfg BB30 to GXP adapters. One is my winter bike and the other is my cross bike so both get the maximum amount of abuse and general immersion in filth. I've been using the adapters for 3-4 years and I think the one on the cross bike is just now dying. Or it might be the bearing going but I think it's wear on the bushings causing some groaning and shuddering under load. I have gotten my $25 worth many times over and will happily buy the same adapter again to replace it.
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Originally Posted by PepeM
(Post 18995159)
Going for the pink/leopard one?
As for Wheels Manufacturing, I went with one of their PF86 BBs in my bike, and I have been very happy with it. The mechanic who installed it also was quite impressed with the quality. He had not installed any Wheels Mfg. BBs, and said he'd probably start recommending them to people. |
I really like the purple one, but the fork doesn't do it for me (same with the pink, really.) It just doesn't look that good, in my opinion. Shame 'cause if the whole bike was purple it would be quite stunning.
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Re disc brakes and axle standards. My LBS buddy has been test riding a Cannondale Super X cross bike for a few days and loving it. This bike has a standard 142mm rear axle but requires a specially dished rear wheel. Jeez people, what's the point of having a standard if you're going to do that?
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Originally Posted by globecanvas
(Post 18996789)
Re disc brakes and axle standards. My LBS buddy has been test riding a Cannondale Super X cross bike for a few days and loving it. This bike has a standard 142mm rear axle but requires a specially dished rear wheel. Jeez people, what's the point of having a standard if you're going to do that?
the issue crops up as a solution to better chainline and more clearance, as both the # of gears people are using and the width of tires have increased in the MTB world. cannondale has been doing this with their scalpel and flash for a while. not surprising it made it over to other disc bikes. the zipp 11s zOMG-this-wheel-has-to-be-re-dished issue wasn't too dissimilar. while there is an attempt at axle standards (haha), there isn't one re: frames in that same way. |
Originally Posted by tetonrider
(Post 18997809)
it's basically <1 turn of the spoke nipple to fix that.
the issue crops up as a solution to better chainline and more clearance, as both the # of gears people are using and the width of tires have increased in the MTB world. cannondale has been doing this with their scalpel and flash for a while. not surprising it made it over to other disc bikes. the zipp 11s zOMG-this-wheel-has-to-be-re-dished issue wasn't too dissimilar. while there is an attempt at axle standards (haha), there isn't one re: frames in that same way. Edit: I might be misremembering - possibly the frames were 128mm, not the wheels. I was like seven years old, so I wasn't paying that much attention. |
anybody have suggestions on really good aero short sleeve jerseys and/or aero road suits? for the latter i know LG Course is well regarded.
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Yo LG speedsuits are dope. [MENTION=360087]dz_nuzz[/MENTION] you concur?
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Originally Posted by echappist
(Post 19000046)
anybody have suggestions on really good aero short sleeve jerseys and/or aero road suits? for the latter i know LG Course is well regarded.
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I'm still troubleshooting my SRM, sort of thinking out loud here.
Battery is soldered in properly, checked that a few times. 3.6v (new battery) at circuit board connection spots. Can pick up cadence when swiping the spider with the pick up (crank off the bike). I've done that twice now, once earlier today. This is a spare harness that I have, not on the bike. When placed lightly on BB spindle can pick up cadence with harness on bike. To see the computer head while I'm at the BB I have to unravel the wire a bit and let the computer head dangle next to the top tube. Tightened crank, checked again, computer still dangling next to downtube. I could transmit enough force to display both cadence and power. Put bike in trainer. Put computer on bar mount. Turn pedals. No cadence (and since no cadence, no power). Nada. Nothing. I'm going to see if twisting the (brand new) harness does anything, etc. Also going to check with a different computer head. |
Originally Posted by hack
(Post 19000064)
I like the current Castelli aero race jersey. Sleeves are a bit long, but I guess that helps the aero gains. The newest San Remo (3.2) incorporates this jersey and the newer bib shorts, so that's a double win.
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Originally Posted by echappist
(Post 19000046)
anybody have suggestions on really good aero short sleeve jerseys and/or aero road suits? for the latter i know LG Course is well regarded.
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Originally Posted by Ygduf
(Post 19000699)
and your back gets tan through them!
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Originally Posted by TheKillerPenguin
(Post 19000052)
Yo LG speedsuits are dope. [MENTION=360087]dz_nuzz[/MENTION] you concur?
Concurred. mighty comfy. Also mighty tight. |
LG has its skin suits 50% off on its website.
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thanks everyone!
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Originally Posted by carpediemracing
(Post 19000663)
I'm still troubleshooting my SRM, sort of thinking out loud here.
Battery is soldered in properly, checked that a few times. 3.6v (new battery) at circuit board connection spots. Can pick up cadence when swiping the spider with the pick up (crank off the bike). I've done that twice now, once earlier today. This is a spare harness that I have, not on the bike. When placed lightly on BB spindle can pick up cadence with harness on bike. To see the computer head while I'm at the BB I have to unravel the wire a bit and let the computer head dangle next to the top tube. Tightened crank, checked again, computer still dangling next to downtube. I could transmit enough force to display both cadence and power. Put bike in trainer. Put computer on bar mount. Turn pedals. No cadence (and since no cadence, no power). Nada. Nothing. I'm going to see if twisting the (brand new) harness does anything, etc. Also going to check with a different computer head. |
Originally Posted by Racer Ex
(Post 19001065)
Harness or pin connector, my best guess. Likely one of those wire things where if you hold it just so it makes contact.
New harness, same symptoms with another harness, same symptoms with another head (tried 2 heads, 3 harnesses of which 2 are new). When the head dangles on the top tube the pin connector has some side load on it and it worked. Arg. Maybe it's time to upgrade one to wireless. |
Originally Posted by carpediemracing
(Post 19001140)
I hope it's just one thing.
New harness, same symptoms with another harness, same symptoms with another head (tried 2 heads, 3 harnesses of which 2 are new). When the head dangles on the top tube the pin connector has some side load on it and it worked. Arg. Maybe it's time to upgrade one to wireless. |
Originally Posted by Racer Ex
(Post 19001242)
We'll drag you kicking and screaming into 2005.
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Originally Posted by tetonrider
(Post 19001341)
i laughed. :)
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Anyone have a solution to mount a light on aero road handlebars?
Our Wednesday group rides are edging on sundown this time of year and none of my lights will mount on my Giant Contact Aero road bars... |
start with tate lab univesal mount. it's clunky, but seems to do the job (i use it on my Zipp Vuka Sprint aero road bars)
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Mount the light to the head tube?
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Some of the lights come with a stretchy rubber strap for mounting, instead of the round plastic bracket. The one I have works fine with my 3T aero drop bars. Don't remember the model off the top of my head, will try to find out later and report back.
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