aaaaaand I have no power/cadence. It lasted a minute.

I'm not sure if you guys ever watch the Hydraulic Press Channel, but this week they do Carbon Fiber: Carbon Fiber Does Not Do What You Expect When You Crush It With A Hydraulic Press

It's pretty interesting.

I have no idea who these guys are or if its legit or not or safe or not.

That being said, reading the letters they posted, it appears you send the UCI your data (along with a check, I assume) and they say "yep, that looks good to me, have fun". You don't even have to send them good wheels. You can test your own set of good wheels, or you can just make **** up.

One would think that used cannonades might be hard to find at this point in history...

I am going to pull a trigger on Fast Forward F6R Tubular DT240s Wheelset for ~1200 from PBK tomorrow. This will be replacing my 9 year old Ritchey tubulars. Someone give me a reason no to buy them? Poking around reviews seems to be OK.

My only concern at the moment is that this will be my racing wheels, and racing season is coming to a close. How often do these wheels go on sale?

Fit question:

If after a long tempo road ride on a recently set up cross bike my hammies are more fatigues than usual, what is that saying about my saddle height/fit? It wasn't at all painful or uncomfortable. I set it up last night and measured and all that, but matching a road fit to a cx fit with different shoes and pedals isn't exact. Thoughts?

I get that after TT rides where I'm stretching the hamstrings a little with tighter hip angle.

i have a set of tubular zipp 404s (race wheels for me; the front is brand new, no glue; rear has a tire mounted) -- if you are considering something used in comparable depth. also have 303s and 808s (nearly new).

does anyone share a trainer with a spouse, specifically something like the kickr? just curious about ease of changing bikes, especially if there is different gearing on the bikes

Kickr has it's own cassette so swapping bikes is easy so long as both bikes are 10-sp or both are 11-sp. Alternatively, if one bike is 10-sp while the other is 11-sp but the Kickr has a 10-sp cassette installed, the 11-sp bike will work ok (I've tried it). Not sure about 10-sp bike on a 11-sp Kickr though.

Swapping bikes on trainers like CyclOps Fluid where bike remains wholly intact is pretty simple. I swap my wife's bike onto trainer when I'm gone for travel since her getting to gym is hard without me there to help with kid schedules. Only adjustment necessary is rear spacing on trainer since my bike is wider than hers regarding outside of quick-release measurement.

Well we both have 8 speed at the moment (which will work on the Kickr with a spacer). I just use a tighter cassette (hers goes to 32 and right now i have a 28). I was just trying to think ahead to when and if I get 10 or 11 speed and how that would work to swap, and knowing my wife won't have the patience for anything labor intensive when it comes to cycling lol I just have a feeling that unless you have an identical setup then a direct drive trainer probably isn't a great thing to share

I have a powertap I use at the moment (so I change tires going from indoor to outdoor), but I think if we shared a smart trainer with a fairly accurate power profile then I could just use a couple of spare rear wheels and have those as dedicated trainer wheels.

With Kickr, gearing doesn't matter in erg mode since it will adjust resistance to keep you at your target power no matter which cog you're on. There's really no need to shift gears at all unless you're getting bogged down and need to drop to an easier gear to momentarily get your cadence back up (doesn't last long though since erg will increase the resistance). So I wouldn't worry about the fact you normally ride with different cassettes.

That said if switching bikes is going to be a regular occurrence, the Kickr Snap might make more sense.

Hi. Thank you for the offer. I ended up buying a set of Vision Metron 81 tubulars from teammate. Speaking of tubular rims and gluing them. If anyone have an opinion on this thread I started....
http://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycli...uing-tape.html

Do you SRM guys have more than one?

I am having quarq issues. I have two that are several years old now and are apparently bad, and one new last year which is still good. One of the older ones is on my TT bike. Before this weekend's TT the calibration values were screwy and the power file looks bad, so I think that one is going. (I intend to test it on a smart trainer connected to Zwift tonight. That was where I determined the other one was going bad. There was a difference between the displayed power in Zwift coming from my trainer and the Garmin displayed power, and the numbers deviated more with higher force.)

I'm thinking of selling all of it and going with PowerTap pedals or Stages (although my last try with stages didn't inspire confidence). I need a solution that will work across the board and can move from bike to bike easily. The ideal would be to go from Road to TT to Cross (although I don't think the PT pedals would be good for cross) seamlessly without having to buy three power meters. The alternative is to buy two used SRMs.

What do you guys do?

I swap mine between my race bike and my rain bike, but BBs are the same.

I have two SRMs. One purchased new and one purchased used. I bought a second cause I was too lazy to swap cranks.

I arrived at SRM after going through three Quarqs in 18 months.

A Duracci and a Rotor. Both use the same BB so i don't need to swap BB when one of them is out of service.

I would hate to have to swap cranks in the middle of an omnium... Plus all of my bottom brackets are currently different.

If you buy used SRMs get the wireless ones. If you don't know if it's truly wireless you can get the serial number (on the back of the spider), but also engraved inside the circuit board area. Then email SRM support in Colorado. I was looking at a wireless Cannondale SI SRM and the SRM guy said it was compatible with PC5 (wired), PC6 (wireless but not desirable), PC7 (wireless, desirable). Those are the head units, the latest one being the PC8. He also mentioned they have refurbished PC7 heads for $200 in limited colors.

If you get a wired SRM there's a possibility of upgrading the guts to wireless. However not all wired cranks are upgradeable. I inquired about my two SRMs (Cannondale SI both), apparently they are both same generation and not upgradeable. The upgrade price is really low, I think $450, brings the crank to PC7 compatible specs. Again, if looking at a used one, ask for the serial number and SRM Colorado can tell you if it's upgradeable.

The reason for going to wireless is pretty simple - the wire harnesses are a point of failure and there's no discounted way of getting one. They fail pretty much annually, it was always my thing to do before the first race of the Series, replace the harness.

I just got a 3rd wired SRM from a friend. I'm going to eventually upgrade that one (it's upgradeable, it came from one of the former co-promoters of the Series and he briefly considered upgrading it). This one is not BB30 and will live on my track bike or my mountain bike.

The Cannondale SI SRM is very light, mine was 575g complete. Cranks, BB, chainrings, harness, head unit. If you have the extractor it's very simple to move cranks around. You could get away with one crankset for two bikes, unless one is a pit bike. Even then you can just use a regular spider and a second set of arms for the second bike.

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QBzXxzYRw...SRM-Weight.jpg

You can also tell if it's wireless by looking at the number on the back. PM7 is the latest version. PM6 also is wireless. Some people confuse the PM designation with the PC series.

PM is power meter. PC is Power Control, I.e. Computer.

I have a Rotor 3D+ SRM and a FSA Stages. Both are BB30.

Do you guys use "be seen" lights during the day? I have some big, bulky, heavy "see" lights that I use at night (or I did years ago when I actually trained), but I don't have any "be seen" lights that I use. Seems a lot of folks around here use at least a rear light, sometimes a front, all times of day.

Is there a good, cheap light set that people like for just using all the time? Preferably rechargeable but lasts a while between charges.

I use a headlight on daylight flash when visibility is iffy or I'm in town. It's a Cygolite 450 (?). I had a guy pull out about 15 feet from me from a dead stop because he checked for cars and didn't see me. The impact re-broke my right collarbone. Ain't happening again.

people use the serfas thunderbolt lights around here to "be seen"

I don't, because I don't think daytime car muderings happen because of lack of blinkers, it's people looking at phones and not even looking at the road, or seeing the bike, but having no ****ing clue how fast it's travelling.

Last I trained I used two Planet Bike Superflashes. I point one sort of level, for longer range, and then one aimed a bit higher so that the super flash light annoys drivers as they approach within about 50 feet.

I didn't use a front light.

Looks like the upper light got pushed down by the bag. Normally I jam everything in pockets but for this ride I was riding with an LS skinsuit and vest.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dDjXcC4pWV...227141530b.jpg