auto-pause, bro, auto-pause. isn't there a checkbox for repeat notifications of movement detected or what not?

Anyway, the pioneer just keeps being annoying every 30 secnds or so if you're moving and not recording. I feel like that's pretty standard now.

I don't like auto pause. It's annoying. What is prefer is repeating the same check sequence after a stop longer than x minutes or what SRM does, and records upon sensing that, you know, you're riding.

Funny this is brought up. Lost about 10 miles of data today and 20 last week hitting stop at some point during the ride and not starting it. The Garmin 1000 has a red outline when its in stop mode but its hard to see. Think I'm going to try the auto pause thing.

Auto-pause is no good if you ride steep or switchbacky trails, too. I just never stop the Garmin when I stop during a ride. There's no reason to afaict.

Wahoo Kickr + TrainerRoad = epic workouts.

I set my auto-pause to a custom speed of 1mph. I think you can go even lower than that.
I doubt you're moving slower than 1mph (1.5 ft/s) on even the steepest climb....but maybe I'm wrong.

I set mine to 2.5mph... if I'm going slower then that... time to walk.

It will still fail on switchbacky trails. I think the GPS accuracy is the limiter, not the minimum speed setting. You can spend a lot of time within say 20' of the same point while still moving.

I just never saw the point of auto-pause. Any software (GC, WKO, Strava, etc, even Garmin) will calculate average power, speed, etc using moving time anyway, not elapsed time.

I went ahead and ordered them, along with the spare hardware. Now I just need to do the crankset swap and order tires for the 303s to replace the nasty Gatorskins on them.

The wheelbuilder disc covers are nice, I expect you will be pleased with it. I had one for a powertap wheel that I eventually sold with the wheel.

I've been considering doing something similar to what this guy did. Mine would be used only for TTs and I'd use my November carbon powertap wheelset, so I'd probably change it up slightly to make it easier to take off an on whenever I needed. (as in no duct taping to spokes)

A Midwest Trilife: DIY Aero Wheel Cover Tutorial

When I first started using my 500 (bought from a friend on Optum) it was set for 5mph. As a result, my first week of riding, which should have seen some KOMs or high placings on Strava, was rather frustrating; it was "rounding off" all of the tight switchback turns. I hit one climb in a faster overall time, based on my wrist watch, then I ever had, but my 500 was reading about 30s faster for that interval. Got home, uploaded the data, not a single segment recognized.

Blah. Now, only when I'm stopped does auto-pause engage.

Have access to a really good deal on a quarq. Not interested in an srm.

What's the difference between a riken, Elsa, and red quarq?

Red is older technology. Riken is the heavier new technology. Elsa is lighter and I believe more precise technology.

New bePRO pedal-based power meter costs £347 | road.cc

anyone see this? Apparently it's on DC rainmakers queue as well. Wonder if there'll be any way to get this product in the U.S. Market

so...if my 10speed shifter broke (the paddle was all messed up in the middle of the race today, started working at the end, but i don't have high hopes for long-term reliability...) is it worth replacing at this point or should i just get 105 11s from the UK? I already have the crank and I don't think I'd need brakes? my road wheels are 11s compatible.

Go 11. I'm almost certainly going to Rival 22 on my road bike next month and swapping the 10s stuff over to the cross bike.

I forget, you said you're using SRAM right? If so if your shifters are 2 years old or younger they'll replace it for free as I'm pretty sure this is a known issue for them. The serial number should be on the inside of the brake lever, bring it to your local bike shop and let them know what's up. That said if you're looking for an excuse to go 11spd go for it.

I think this at least the third round of replacement for Mikey.

Go Shimano 11. Works great.

sram 10s red mechanical. ~40k miles and still going strong.

This shifter is shimano. I must shift like an ape because I've broken 3 or 4 rival shifters and now 2 ultegras. Can anyone confirm that 10s shimano brakes work with 11s shifters? Not sure why they wouldn't. Also, could I go super cheap and keep the same front dérailleur?

It will work but it may not be optimal. Do you know the series (6700, etc.)?

Currently on 6700 brakes, shifters, and rd. 7900 fd. 11s ultegra level crank (6800?)

What shovel said. My bike came with 5800 105 but generic brakes; I replaced them with 5800 105 brakes and noticed the improvement, believe there's a difference in leverage. And yeah, you must shift like an ape.

The 5800/6800/9000 brake calipers are dual pivot, which gives more leverage for the same lever ratio. I suggest that you add 5800 or 6800 calipers if you go with 6800 levers.