I broke 6700 shifters. Never broken Rival. I doubt it means anything though.

Work - yes. But they are not the same. The throw is a wee different. I'm sure you are asking about shifting, but the brakes (9000) are also different - but you can still stop.

sorry to hear about your issues.

short answer: you're golden with 9000 or 6800 levers and 6700 calipers.

longer: there used to be an issues with mixing-and-matching between two generations of TEN speed levers and calipers (6700/6600; 7900/7800). newer levers with older calipers had a little less power; older levers with newer calipers had the power but lost the feel (a bit).

when we're talking about ELEVEN speed levers (9000 or 6800) with TEN speed calipers (7900/6700), there is no issue at all. leverage ratio is the same.

shimano, who are notoriously super conservative, even declare it as fully cross-compatible.

he is asking about new levers with older calipers, it appears.

Ah, yeah I remember hearing about the 10s issues which is why I asked. Thanks Teton. Now to scour the webs for a cheap 11s group.

Hey [MENTION=364302]Doge[/MENTION]

pulse ox monitor for $30



https://www.groupon.com/deals/gg-sma...b6026334749243

PM me if you're interested and this link doesn't work, I'm trying to do this from my phone.

No idea of the quality of this unit. One of my nurses sent me the link. We had been playing with our pulse ox one day and talking about cycling applications. She remembered that and saw this link and sent it to me.

Among the things I undertook today was overhauling the FD and RD on my cyclocross bike. Yeah. A lot of those pivots are apparently none too fond of a winter of snow riding followed by a failure to lubricate. But it is a PITA, and getting one of those pivots back together on the FD was almost impossible. And now I still have seized limit screws and seized SPD cleat bolts to deal with. Sigh. It never ends. I need a Dremel.

someone develop a CVT drivetrain now that they are electronic anyway.

Finally changed my small chainring from the 42 that came with my crank to 38, although I doubt that would have been a huge help yesterday on the really steep one

I've purchased about 5 different ones and they all seem to work about as well - for the purpose of seeing what is happening in the 90s.

Teton continues to send bad Garmin karma my way :). On yesterday's ride, towards the end, I noticed that power was reading zero. A quick stomp would move the needle but it went right back to zero. Cadence was fine so not a magnet issue. I clean out the memory on the 800 every three months, due in a week. So I pulled over and rebooted it, and all was well from that point on, but I lost a lot of data.

The PC8 is now on my radar screen.

I took apart the broken bike this weekend. I knew I had a small crack in one of my RD pulleys. Turns out that small crack was actually a very large crack. The sprockets popped right off the bearing.

So I am either going to replace the whole RD or just the pulleys. Does anyone see any reason why I couldn't put the Sram Force/Rival pulleys on a Red RD? The Red pulleys have the ceramic bearings and cost $120. The Force/Rival pulleys are $15.

It seems like the emptier the Garmin memory is, the better it behaves. I download and delete rides daily fwiw.

I see 105 reasons.

At first, I read this as a suggestion that I should switch to Shimano 105.

Three months has been working for me, but then there are these outlier cases that happen every now and then. Why would a reboot clear up a storage issue? I make fun of Teton for his tenacity on this subject, but it is rooted in fact, and it does have an impact.

That's a very good idea, but not what I was getting at.

i think my shifter healed itself overnight.

IMO, 5800 105 feels like 7800 DA, but with nicer hoods and an additional speed.

My 500 dropped power and cadence for about five seconds in the middle of an interval this morning. It only has about a month's worth of rides on it, but I guess it's time to delete the history again.

If I track stand at a red light my Garmin 500 stops recording power until I coast for about 30 seconds, and then it picks it back up. Cadence continues to work. Just power.

Trying to decide if the PC8 provides enough additional features to justify buying it over a PC7 that can be had for under $300 now.

Or the little plastic piece that had snapped and was clogging it up dropped out, and it technically works but the shift action is now mushy. Happened to me last year. The little plastic guide holding the downshift prong on the inside of the lever broke, and while the lever unjammed, the shifting feel was permanently degraded.

maybe, idk, shifting feels fine to me.

The PC7 won't work with the Stages I have on my second bike. I want to use the PC8 for both, plus that crank gives me a compact option on the race bike.

Could it be eating the cable? Shimano shifters like to do that and back when I rode with ultegra that sort of day to day shifting inconsistency was one of the symptoms.

Didn't think of that. Yeah, I had an unpleasant run in 2012 with bad shifting, it would be practically impossible to downshift one day, fine the next. 6700 was not Shimano's best work.

Shimano shifters like new cables, often.