Front derailleur issues
05-09-15 | 02:10 PM
#1
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Joined: May 2015
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Front derailleur issues
I just picked up this bike last week, its my first bike in my adulthood so I am still learning
I am having issues shifting my front derailleur, I have been watching videos, reading, and adjusting for the past few hours
May have to take it to the shop but thought I would ask for some advice first
I have 3 gear on my crankset
It is physically hard to shift though the gears because the cable get very tight
When I loosen the cable to make it easier to shift there is not enough tension shift though the gears
Im thinking I may have bought someones project bike, thought I was getting a decent bike
I am having issues shifting my front derailleur, I have been watching videos, reading, and adjusting for the past few hours
May have to take it to the shop but thought I would ask for some advice first
I have 3 gear on my crankset
It is physically hard to shift though the gears because the cable get very tight
When I loosen the cable to make it easier to shift there is not enough tension shift though the gears
Im thinking I may have bought someones project bike, thought I was getting a decent bike
05-09-15 | 02:15 PM
#2
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 33,657
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Details as to the make and model of the front derailleur and crank and the type of shifter you have are needed before anyone can even guess at what should be done.
05-09-15 | 02:42 PM
#4
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
What follows are generic instructions for front derailleurs. The details may vary, but the general principles and methods are basically the same for all.
Start by checking that the outer cage plate is parallel to the face of the outer chainring, and that when directly over the teeth it clears by 2-3mm. There's fudge room, but use this as the starting place, and don't fudge unless you know haw and why.
Set the inner limit, so the inside cage plate just clears the chain when in low gear (granny/big). It helps to take weight off the screw by manually moving the FD out (pull on the cable a bit) so the limit screw turns easier. Make this a habit whenever adjusting the inner limit. In low the FD should be resting on the inner limit, not hanging from the cable, and the cable should be slightly slack.
Move the RD to the outer third of the cassette and shift to then outer front by pulling the wire away from the down tube (ignore the levers for awhile). Back off the outer limit until you can shift to high and beyond, dumping the chain over the outside. Now trial and error bring the limit in by degrees, testing by pulling the wire until you cannot overshift. Test this a number of times and if in doubt you can bring the outer limit in another 8th turn, but no more.The goal is to find the outermost setting that prevents overshifting. Now the manual shifts from mid ring to high should be clean and crisp.
Now that both limits are set, adjust the cable trim. (now is when you'll first use the levers) This is easier with a barrel adjuster, otherwise you need to loosen and reset it at the pinch bolt. various mechanics have their own version of "best" for the trim adjustment, and the details will vary if, for example, the lever offers a trim click. However my general preference is to adjust according to high gear trim, so shift to high in the back, and adjust the trim so the outer plate just clears the chain, then test for crisp shifting. My preference is for the innermost trim that clears the chain and shifts crisply.
Lastly, test shifting and trim on all sprockets, which should be close, but may need a tweak. Likewise the inner limit might need a slight tweak for clean shift and trim in low.
Start by checking that the outer cage plate is parallel to the face of the outer chainring, and that when directly over the teeth it clears by 2-3mm. There's fudge room, but use this as the starting place, and don't fudge unless you know haw and why.
Set the inner limit, so the inside cage plate just clears the chain when in low gear (granny/big). It helps to take weight off the screw by manually moving the FD out (pull on the cable a bit) so the limit screw turns easier. Make this a habit whenever adjusting the inner limit. In low the FD should be resting on the inner limit, not hanging from the cable, and the cable should be slightly slack.
Move the RD to the outer third of the cassette and shift to then outer front by pulling the wire away from the down tube (ignore the levers for awhile). Back off the outer limit until you can shift to high and beyond, dumping the chain over the outside. Now trial and error bring the limit in by degrees, testing by pulling the wire until you cannot overshift. Test this a number of times and if in doubt you can bring the outer limit in another 8th turn, but no more.The goal is to find the outermost setting that prevents overshifting. Now the manual shifts from mid ring to high should be clean and crisp.
Now that both limits are set, adjust the cable trim. (now is when you'll first use the levers) This is easier with a barrel adjuster, otherwise you need to loosen and reset it at the pinch bolt. various mechanics have their own version of "best" for the trim adjustment, and the details will vary if, for example, the lever offers a trim click. However my general preference is to adjust according to high gear trim, so shift to high in the back, and adjust the trim so the outer plate just clears the chain, then test for crisp shifting. My preference is for the innermost trim that clears the chain and shifts crisply.
Lastly, test shifting and trim on all sprockets, which should be close, but may need a tweak. Likewise the inner limit might need a slight tweak for clean shift and trim in low.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
05-09-15 | 03:54 PM
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 33,657
Likes: 1,119
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Most obvious to me from your pictures is that your front derailleur is set much too high above the big chainring. The outer cage should just clear the tallest teeth in the big chainring by 2-3 mm. First correct that. Then, as FB recommended, disconnect the cable and set the low and high limit screws as he suggests.
Finally, when you connect the shift cable (the routing over the pinch bolt looks correct in your third photo) be sure the shifter has been set to the lowest gear position by clicking the inner lever several time and then pull the slack out of the cable and tighten it in place. Then refine the shifting with the barrel adjuster on your frame.
Finally, when you connect the shift cable (the routing over the pinch bolt looks correct in your third photo) be sure the shifter has been set to the lowest gear position by clicking the inner lever several time and then pull the slack out of the cable and tighten it in place. Then refine the shifting with the barrel adjuster on your frame.
05-09-15 | 03:59 PM
#6
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Agree that dropping the FD will help (was the first step in my earlier post), but you appear to have limited clearance at the heel. So when you do drop it, be sure to watch the clearance back there. You want at least 1mm or so in case anything should move.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
05-11-15 | 07:00 PM
#7
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Joined: May 2015
Posts: 32
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Issue solved!!
To the bike someone to look at it, not a shop an individual not to far away, went to an individual so I could see what he did and learn.
The PO hooked the cable to the derailleur incorrectly, when I took the cable off myself and hooked it back up I always connected it the same way never thought about it not being correct.
Everything seems to be riding smooth, but have only gone around our 1/2 mile circle in the neighborhood.
Hopefully get a small ride in tomorrow weather depending
To the bike someone to look at it, not a shop an individual not to far away, went to an individual so I could see what he did and learn.
The PO hooked the cable to the derailleur incorrectly, when I took the cable off myself and hooked it back up I always connected it the same way never thought about it not being correct.
Everything seems to be riding smooth, but have only gone around our 1/2 mile circle in the neighborhood.
Hopefully get a small ride in tomorrow weather depending
