Kmc 11s connector problem
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 615
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From: NW Peloponnese, Greece
Kmc 11s connector problem
I wanted to installed a 11 spd connector on my 11 spd shimano chain, but the connector did not seat properly on both ends.
In other words, the pin did not seat properly at the end of the side plates on both ends; it is as if the holes on the plates are too small for the groove in the pin.
Then I looked at a new 11 spd KMC chain's connector, and it had the same problem.
I'm not sure if it would settle properly once tension is applied to the chain, but if it did could you then remove the connector if you wanted to?
I have never seen this happening before on 9 or 10 spd connectors that I have used.
Am I missing something here.
Any info is welcomed.
YannisG
In other words, the pin did not seat properly at the end of the side plates on both ends; it is as if the holes on the plates are too small for the groove in the pin.
Then I looked at a new 11 spd KMC chain's connector, and it had the same problem.
I'm not sure if it would settle properly once tension is applied to the chain, but if it did could you then remove the connector if you wanted to?
I have never seen this happening before on 9 or 10 spd connectors that I have used.
Am I missing something here.
Any info is welcomed.
YannisG
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 766
Likes: 1
If I a not mistaken, 11 speed connectors are not reusable. That aside, to close it, get the connecting link on the upper chain run (above the chainstay), hold the rear wheel, and give the pedal a "whack" as if stomping down on the pedal.
#3
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 615
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From: NW Peloponnese, Greece
Thanks for the reply.
The connector was new. I cut and removed the shimano chain for cleaning, and then I was using the new connector.
So if you "whack" the connector into place will you be able to removed it later?
YannisG
The connector was new. I cut and removed the shimano chain for cleaning, and then I was using the new connector.
So if you "whack" the connector into place will you be able to removed it later?
YannisG
#4
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Bikes: 87 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds. 2019 Giant Explore E+3
#5
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales
All you need is a rock to open quick links.
Set the link at 3'oclock on the big chainring.
Pull an extra link onto the chainring from below, so that the quick link sticks out like this: >
Whack the point with a small rock and it should open.
Set the link at 3'oclock on the big chainring.
Pull an extra link onto the chainring from below, so that the quick link sticks out like this: >
Whack the point with a small rock and it should open.
__________________
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Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
#6
I wanted to installed a 11 spd connector on my 11 spd shimano chain, but the connector did not seat properly on both ends.
In other words, the pin did not seat properly at the end of the side plates on both ends; it is as if the holes on the plates are too small for the groove in the pin.
Then I looked at a new 11 spd KMC chain's connector, and it had the same problem.
I'm not sure if it would settle properly once tension is applied to the chain, but if it did could you then remove the connector if you wanted to?
I have never seen this happening before on 9 or 10 spd connectors that I have used.
Am I missing something here.
Any info is welcomed.
YannisG
In other words, the pin did not seat properly at the end of the side plates on both ends; it is as if the holes on the plates are too small for the groove in the pin.
Then I looked at a new 11 spd KMC chain's connector, and it had the same problem.
I'm not sure if it would settle properly once tension is applied to the chain, but if it did could you then remove the connector if you wanted to?
I have never seen this happening before on 9 or 10 spd connectors that I have used.
Am I missing something here.
Any info is welcomed.
YannisG
KMC Master Link Closer Tool
KMC Master Link Opener Tool
Don't use a rock, you'll just fork it up.
#7
The Sram 11-speed Powerlink works the same way. The installation method requires standing on the pedal until it clicks into place. It clicks in with fairly easy pedal pressure.
There's multiple ways to remove these.
1. Park Tool MLP-1 pliers press inward on the two rollers. Easy.

2. Some people use regular pliers at an angle, pressing on opposite plates, using the permanently connected plate ends. This video demonstrates.
3. This worked slick: Just bend an old spoke in half with a bulge in the middle, then squeeze with pliers. It's not real critical on the bends, just eyeball it. (I first tried with coathanger wire, but that's a little too thick.) I'm sure that bike shops have junk spokes if you don't have any.
At 0:10, it shows the link removal. I always do this on the bottom portion of the chain, not this top side.
At 1:18, the video sort of shows how to bend the tool. And you have to cut off the J bend spoke end.
Edit -- here's my homemade tool, complete with tape flag so I don't throw it out accidentally:
Move the chain back onto the small chain ring, back-pedal until the masterlink is on the top portion of chain, pull the rear brake and turn the pedal forward until the masterlink clicks into place.
I've had good luck removing and re-using the link, as have others. But Sram says it's a one-time use link.There's multiple ways to remove these.
1. Park Tool MLP-1 pliers press inward on the two rollers. Easy.

2. Some people use regular pliers at an angle, pressing on opposite plates, using the permanently connected plate ends. This video demonstrates.
3. This worked slick: Just bend an old spoke in half with a bulge in the middle, then squeeze with pliers. It's not real critical on the bends, just eyeball it. (I first tried with coathanger wire, but that's a little too thick.) I'm sure that bike shops have junk spokes if you don't have any.
At 0:10, it shows the link removal. I always do this on the bottom portion of the chain, not this top side.
At 1:18, the video sort of shows how to bend the tool. And you have to cut off the J bend spoke end.
Edit -- here's my homemade tool, complete with tape flag so I don't throw it out accidentally:
Last edited by rm -rf; 08-20-17 at 07:43 AM.
#8
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 615
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From: NW Peloponnese, Greece
Thanks for responding.
It just seemed odd to me that for all the other width chains it would just slip into place.
I have the special pliers so that takes care of the removal.
Does anyone reuse the 11s connector after it has been removed?
YannisG
It just seemed odd to me that for all the other width chains it would just slip into place.
I have the special pliers so that takes care of the removal.
Does anyone reuse the 11s connector after it has been removed?
YannisG
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 276
Likes: 0
I don't even get the point in having an extra tool even taking up space when any pair of pliers works so easily. If I had a bike shop I suppose I might reconsider just to make it 4 seconds faster. I love having the right tools for a job, but a pair of pliers is a fine tool for this job.
#10
Full Member

Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 264
Likes: 32
Bikes: Space Horse Disc, Domane SL5 Disc
I've re-used the 11 speed links many times without any problems, but I do carry an extra one in my tool bag in the event that it eventually fails. I also agree about it being odd these don't just slip into place or are easy to remove as the 9 or 10 speed links. I believe that probably is related to the narrower 11 speed chain width. It kind of defeats the purpose in my opinion if you still need a tool to remove the link (which I eventually broke down and purchased).
#11
I will reuse them only on the same chain. When the chain goes in the trash, so does the link.
But I only take the chain off the bike every few months.
Of course that's assuming it appears undamaged and snaps back on snugly.
But I only take the chain off the bike every few months.
Of course that's assuming it appears undamaged and snaps back on snugly.
#13
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,135
Likes: 108
From: Middle of the road, NJ
I've found that some go together\come apart easier than other, even 9 and ten speed links. The park tool to get them apart works wonderfully. To get them together is always done bu turning the crank. Some you can feel snap into place, others not so much.
#14
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 615
Likes: 37
From: NW Peloponnese, Greece
Thanks for the info.
I usually carry a small chain breaker on the brevets even though I've never used it.
Recently when I removed the 11s Shimano chain for cleaning I pushed the pin out enough to separate the chain. When I tried to insert it back in it would go in straight.
I removed the link with the cocked pin, and tried again and failed. I never had this problem with lower speed chains.
This makes me realize that I need to carry with me a connector or a double pin with the chain breaker. Probably a connector or is better since it would be difficult to break the guide pin off on the road.
YaanisG
I usually carry a small chain breaker on the brevets even though I've never used it.
Recently when I removed the 11s Shimano chain for cleaning I pushed the pin out enough to separate the chain. When I tried to insert it back in it would go in straight.
I removed the link with the cocked pin, and tried again and failed. I never had this problem with lower speed chains.
This makes me realize that I need to carry with me a connector or a double pin with the chain breaker. Probably a connector or is better since it would be difficult to break the guide pin off on the road.
YaanisG







