Is there a road 1x setup that would give the same gearing as double 50/34 w/11-32?
08-17-16, 09:40 AM
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Unless there is something non-compatible with SRAM chainring bolts, the only difference with 1X is that the bolts are shorter since the bolts don't have to go through 2 rings and the spider. I was actually able to use my stock 2x bolts on my Dura Ace 7800 1x build, but they were pretty nearly bottomed out. Probably any designed for single speed would work as well, but measuring is the best bet. I also have some aluminum 1x chainring bolts from Wolf Tooth I was going to use, but the silver ended up being more like grey, that's when I realized the stock ones still worked. Good luck with the build.
I think I know the study. It came out in 2000, and seemed to imply that increased chain tension improved efficiency, but that was at odds with all previous understanding and to the best of my knowledge still hasn't been explained adequately: On Bicycles, and.... what else is there?: Drivetrain losses: Spicer's data
08-18-16, 09:32 PM
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@Jarrett2: I converted my road bike to a 1x SRAM setup and can report that it is NOT quieter. It's still quieter than Shimano, but the X-Sync chainring has alternating wide/narrow teeth that are designed to help clean dirt and grass out of the chain for cyclocross, and the wide teeth make the chainring louder than a SRAM 2x setup when the chain is at an angle.
@Slaninar: The driveline (chainline) angle is not greater with a 1x setup---it is less. I made careful measurements of my driveline when I converted my road bike from 2x to 1x earlier this year. If the chainring is properly centered to the driveline of the rear cassette (SRAM recommends 1-2 mm outside of the center, if I remember correctly), the maximum chain angle will be slightly less. But you don't need to make measurements---we can deduce it. In a 2x setup, the two chainrings are offset more than a 1x setup. This causes the outside chainring of a 2x setup to be offset farther from the inside cog than a 1x. Also, in a 2x setup, the inside chainring is farther from the outside cog than a 1x setup. This is why cross-chaining is undesirable with a 2x setup (because the chain angle is too great). Moving the chainring closer to the center in a 1x setup, reduces the extreme angle a little. Sadly, this advantage isn't large enough to make a significant difference in noise or performance in my experience---but it does help a little. However, this "benefit" is offset by a negative. The 1x chainring has alternating wide/narrow teeth, reducing the ability of the chain to bend as far as a 2x setup. So the advantage of a slightly reduced chain angle due to a better-centered chainring is counter-balanced in a bad way by a chainring that is less tolerant of a chain angle.
Kind regards, RoadLight
@Slaninar: The driveline (chainline) angle is not greater with a 1x setup---it is less. I made careful measurements of my driveline when I converted my road bike from 2x to 1x earlier this year. If the chainring is properly centered to the driveline of the rear cassette (SRAM recommends 1-2 mm outside of the center, if I remember correctly), the maximum chain angle will be slightly less. But you don't need to make measurements---we can deduce it. In a 2x setup, the two chainrings are offset more than a 1x setup. This causes the outside chainring of a 2x setup to be offset farther from the inside cog than a 1x. Also, in a 2x setup, the inside chainring is farther from the outside cog than a 1x setup. This is why cross-chaining is undesirable with a 2x setup (because the chain angle is too great). Moving the chainring closer to the center in a 1x setup, reduces the extreme angle a little. Sadly, this advantage isn't large enough to make a significant difference in noise or performance in my experience---but it does help a little. However, this "benefit" is offset by a negative. The 1x chainring has alternating wide/narrow teeth, reducing the ability of the chain to bend as far as a 2x setup. So the advantage of a slightly reduced chain angle due to a better-centered chainring is counter-balanced in a bad way by a chainring that is less tolerant of a chain angle.
Kind regards, RoadLight
08-19-16, 03:18 AM
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@Jarrett2: I converted my road bike to a 1x SRAM setup and can report that it is NOT quieter. It's still quieter than Shimano, but the X-Sync chainring has alternating wide/narrow teeth that are designed to help clean dirt and grass out of the chain for cyclocross, and the wide teeth make the chainring louder than a SRAM 2x setup when the chain is at an angle.
@Slaninar: The driveline (chainline) angle is not greater with a 1x setup---it is less. I made careful measurements of my driveline when I converted my road bike from 2x to 1x earlier this year. If the chainring is properly centered to the driveline of the rear cassette (SRAM recommends 1-2 mm outside of the center, if I remember correctly), the maximum chain angle will be slightly less. But you don't need to make measurements---we can deduce it. In a 2x setup, the two chainrings are offset more than a 1x setup. This causes the outside chainring of a 2x setup to be offset farther from the inside cog than a 1x. Also, in a 2x setup, the inside chainring is farther from the outside cog than a 1x setup. This is why cross-chaining is undesirable with a 2x setup (because the chain angle is too great). Moving the chainring closer to the center in a 1x setup, reduces the extreme angle a little. Sadly, this advantage isn't large enough to make a significant difference in noise or performance in my experience---but it does help a little. However, this "benefit" is offset by a negative. The 1x chainring has alternating wide/narrow teeth, reducing the ability of the chain to bend as far as a 2x setup. So the advantage of a slightly reduced chain angle due to a better-centered chainring is counter-balanced in a bad way by a chainring that is less tolerant of a chain angle.
Kind regards, RoadLight
@Slaninar: The driveline (chainline) angle is not greater with a 1x setup---it is less. I made careful measurements of my driveline when I converted my road bike from 2x to 1x earlier this year. If the chainring is properly centered to the driveline of the rear cassette (SRAM recommends 1-2 mm outside of the center, if I remember correctly), the maximum chain angle will be slightly less. But you don't need to make measurements---we can deduce it. In a 2x setup, the two chainrings are offset more than a 1x setup. This causes the outside chainring of a 2x setup to be offset farther from the inside cog than a 1x. Also, in a 2x setup, the inside chainring is farther from the outside cog than a 1x setup. This is why cross-chaining is undesirable with a 2x setup (because the chain angle is too great). Moving the chainring closer to the center in a 1x setup, reduces the extreme angle a little. Sadly, this advantage isn't large enough to make a significant difference in noise or performance in my experience---but it does help a little. However, this "benefit" is offset by a negative. The 1x chainring has alternating wide/narrow teeth, reducing the ability of the chain to bend as far as a 2x setup. So the advantage of a slightly reduced chain angle due to a better-centered chainring is counter-balanced in a bad way by a chainring that is less tolerant of a chain angle.
Kind regards, RoadLight
Triple, and double that isn't 50-34 compact will allow for a straighter chainline.
Any triple, 39-53 double, or a 30-46, will leave you with using big chainring with the smaller, outer half of the cassette, and the small one with the inner part of the cassette. 50-34 is an exception that really makes you shift up front often, or ride seriously cross chained.
08-19-16, 01:58 PM
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Chainline is dependent on the application, but of course since a 1x has to cover the entire cassette it could introduce a more offset chainline in some gears. I simply used the outer chainring position of my 2x DA 7800 crank, so the chainline is practically identical to any position I would have been in on the big chainring before. The only difference is when I was on the small ring, which I only used as a bail out option once I already worked to the largest cog in the back. So for my style of shifting the only difference with chainline is my bail out gear, which I may not even use in a months time. Of course there are other very minor differences due to the cogs being different sized compared to typical road cassettes, etc.
Some make a big deal about the chainline and cross chaining issue. Maybe this is a bigger deal when your wearing out chains yearly, or putting hundreds of watts out climbing hills, I don't know. But for my average ride I often end up big-big (on my 2x and 3x's) from time to time and nothing has exploded yet.
I have no experience with SRAM's narrow-wide rings, but I can't detect any more noise coming from my Wolf Tooth dropstop chainring. It's possible some fine acoustic measuring devices might detect something but to my ear it makes no noise at all so good enough for me. My 2x and 3x ones would certainly make noise though when the front derailleur needed adjusting.
Some make a big deal about the chainline and cross chaining issue. Maybe this is a bigger deal when your wearing out chains yearly, or putting hundreds of watts out climbing hills, I don't know. But for my average ride I often end up big-big (on my 2x and 3x's) from time to time and nothing has exploded yet.
I have no experience with SRAM's narrow-wide rings, but I can't detect any more noise coming from my Wolf Tooth dropstop chainring. It's possible some fine acoustic measuring devices might detect something but to my ear it makes no noise at all so good enough for me. My 2x and 3x ones would certainly make noise though when the front derailleur needed adjusting.
08-19-16, 04:10 PM
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To be honest, I've never been a big fan of FDs, especially SRAM's. Setup is fiddly, gear shifts are clunky, and even after careful setup, I still seem prone to the occasional overshift off the big ring or undershift off the small. While there is nothing difficult with using two shifters to find the gear you need, it is nice to not have to bother with it - you double-tap to upshift and single-tap to downshift.
I live in very hilly terrain, so I needed to keep a fairly low gear. So I compromised on the top end - with the 11-36t x 40t setup I have , I "spin out" when pedaling faster than 27 mph or so. I don't do pacelines and am fine with coasting down any hill that is faster than 27 mph, so this compromise is inconsequential to me. Even with "just" a 10-sp, the gear jumps don't seem burdensome to me, but as I just said, I don't do pacelines, so I'm happy to do 16.5 mph rather than 17 mph if I can't pull the higher gear. And I do have a standard 53/39, 12-28 road bike if I want to go faster and a triple on my old touring bike when I want to carry a load.
We'll see what the future brings, but at the point where 11- or 12-speed 10-42 cassettes (and the hub and chainline issues are well sorted) are readily available on a reasonably-priced road bike, I think we'll see a big push towards 1x. I don't see myself buying anything but 1x from this point forward.
BTW, I was able to use my standard "long" 2x chainring bolts with the 40t SRAM X-Sync chainring on my Ultegra crank using the spacers supplied with the chainring. My chainline is near perfect, 44mm at the chainring and 44.5mm at the center of the 11-36 SRAM cassette (on 135mm XT hubs). All-tolled, I have about $220 invested in the upgrade, but $70 of this was a cassette and chain that was worn out anyway, so the incremental cost of the 1x was really $150 for the RD and chainring which seems reasonable to me. Install/setup was easy as pie. With a new SRAM 10-speed chain and using the Rival 1x 2.1 med-cage RD, the driveline is very smooth and quiet but I do notice a slightly different noise than usual on the max cross-chained high and low gears - perhaps this is due to the alternating tooth profiles on the 1x chainring.
Yes, I'm a 1x convert.
- Mark
Last edited by markjenn; 08-20-16 at 10:14 AM.
08-19-16, 04:17 PM
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i've considered this for quite sometime as i love my existing 1x10 rigs. in the end i didn't do it on my road rig because i love my existing campy crank so much that i just can't stop using it, and that is a requirement to get the chain line right. i'm guessing that in the near future even high end road bikes will come with this option, especially since SRAM has 10t cogs and narrow wide rings... others will follow. I think this is a true benefit that makes more sense now that we have 11 speeds, thus gear jumps so much smaller than wayback when we had 8 speeds, or 7... whatever man. I love the idea, if my campy crankset snaps some day i'll probably make the move. for me with a 34/50 and 12/25, i think the 46t with 11/28 was dam close, and i should be riding up the short hills here on the coast of maine with more effort anyway.
08-19-16, 04:30 PM
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Well, SRAM has hitched their business wagon to 1x so this is not too surprising. Having said this, after just converting my CX bike to Rival 1x from a Rival 2x, I certainly understand the sentiment. With 1x, there is just so much less gearing crap to deal with from many standpoints.....operation, cleaning/lubrication, and setup. And I like the look of a clean seat tube. The simplicity is liberating. It's almost like you are going half way to the purity of single-speed but without anywhere near the gearing compromises.
To be honest, I've never been a big fan of FDs, especially SRAM's. Setup is fiddly, gear shifts are clunky, and even after careful setup, I still seem prone to the occasional overshift off the big ring or undershift off the small. While there is nothing difficult with using two shifters to find the gear you need, it is nice to not have to bother with it - you double-tap to upshift and single-tap to downshift.
I live in very hilly terrain, so I needed to keep a fairly low gear. So I compromised on the top end - with the 11-36t x 40t setup I have , I "spin out" when pedaling faster than 27 mph or so. I don't do pacelines and am fine with coasting down any hill that is faster than 27 mph, so these compromises are inconsequential to me. The gear jumps don't seem burdensome to me, but as I said, I don't do pacelines. And I do have a standard 53/39, 12-28 road bike if I want to go faster. And I still have a triple on my old touring bike.
We'll see what the future brings, but at the point where 11- or 12-speed 10-42 cassettes (and the hub and chainline issues are well sorted) are readily available on a reasonably-priced road bike, I think we'll see a big push towards 1x.
BTW, I was able to use my standard "long" 2x chainring bolts with the 40t SRAM X-Sync chainring on my Ultegra crank using the spacers supplied with the chainring. My chainline is near perfect, 44mm at the chainring and 44.5mm at the center of the 11-36 SRAM cassette (on 135mm XT hubs). Install/setup was easy as pie. With a new SRAM 10-speed chain, the driveline is very smooth and quiet but I do notice a slightly different noise than usual on the high and low gears - perhaps this is due to the alternating tooth profiles on the 1x chainring.
Yes, I'm a 1x convert.
- Mark
To be honest, I've never been a big fan of FDs, especially SRAM's. Setup is fiddly, gear shifts are clunky, and even after careful setup, I still seem prone to the occasional overshift off the big ring or undershift off the small. While there is nothing difficult with using two shifters to find the gear you need, it is nice to not have to bother with it - you double-tap to upshift and single-tap to downshift.
I live in very hilly terrain, so I needed to keep a fairly low gear. So I compromised on the top end - with the 11-36t x 40t setup I have , I "spin out" when pedaling faster than 27 mph or so. I don't do pacelines and am fine with coasting down any hill that is faster than 27 mph, so these compromises are inconsequential to me. The gear jumps don't seem burdensome to me, but as I said, I don't do pacelines. And I do have a standard 53/39, 12-28 road bike if I want to go faster. And I still have a triple on my old touring bike.
We'll see what the future brings, but at the point where 11- or 12-speed 10-42 cassettes (and the hub and chainline issues are well sorted) are readily available on a reasonably-priced road bike, I think we'll see a big push towards 1x.
BTW, I was able to use my standard "long" 2x chainring bolts with the 40t SRAM X-Sync chainring on my Ultegra crank using the spacers supplied with the chainring. My chainline is near perfect, 44mm at the chainring and 44.5mm at the center of the 11-36 SRAM cassette (on 135mm XT hubs). Install/setup was easy as pie. With a new SRAM 10-speed chain, the driveline is very smooth and quiet but I do notice a slightly different noise than usual on the high and low gears - perhaps this is due to the alternating tooth profiles on the 1x chainring.
Yes, I'm a 1x convert.
- Mark
I got my X-Sync in today and noticed it came with spacers, so no need for special bolts. Sweet.
I've got all the parts now except the chain which won't be here until Tuesday. If I had a chain, I'd put it together tonight
08-19-16, 05:19 PM
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Nice photo of it on FB BTW, not that I'm stalking you or anything...
08-19-16, 05:20 PM
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- Mark
Last edited by markjenn; 08-20-16 at 10:02 AM.
08-21-16, 06:48 AM
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Although, I did a 51 mile ride yesterday and the 2x seemed fine
I'm not happy with that white saddle on the BMC, but its the one my butt likes so... But otherwise, I do like how the bike looks. His orange frames are very photogenic. And its making me like orange bikes more. Here's a pic from yesterday's breakfast stop:
Me too
Thanks for the heads up.
Last edited by Jarrett2; 08-21-16 at 06:54 AM.
09-01-16, 12:44 PM
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So I got my first ride in on the 1x setup last night. It was supposed to be 28 miles, but ended at 15 with a phone call I had to attend to. I was more impressed with the 1x setup than I thought I would be. When I was building it, I was thinking it was sort of gimmicky and not something I'd enjoy riding, but once I got on the road, things changed.
It was absolutely more quiet than my 2x setup. Similar to a single speed when pedaling. Shifting was also surprisingly quiet given the long DR and big jumps. The chain was straighter in the typical riding gears. I never even thought about my left hand shifter. I took it up at 13% grade hill and purposely went slow in the big gear just to see how it felt and it was easy. I spun up the hill at about 67 rpm while those around me were out of the saddle and mashing with low cadence.
I also went down an 11% hill and didn't feel like I spun out too early. Also, the jumps between cogs don't feel really much different than my 2x. In fact, I find myself feeling right shifting one gear over versus two on the 2x.
I forgot to weigh the parts separately to see what changed from a weight perspective, but just from the lift test, it seems like a wash. Little more weighted to the back now though.
Overall, I was really happy with that first test run. I need to put a few hundred miles on the setup before coming to any conclusion, but so far, so good.
Here is the gear ratio I went with:
Here is a pic of the setup. I am little concerned about chain length here. I feel like it should be longer, but its shifting really well in all of the gears thus far:
It was absolutely more quiet than my 2x setup. Similar to a single speed when pedaling. Shifting was also surprisingly quiet given the long DR and big jumps. The chain was straighter in the typical riding gears. I never even thought about my left hand shifter. I took it up at 13% grade hill and purposely went slow in the big gear just to see how it felt and it was easy. I spun up the hill at about 67 rpm while those around me were out of the saddle and mashing with low cadence.
I also went down an 11% hill and didn't feel like I spun out too early. Also, the jumps between cogs don't feel really much different than my 2x. In fact, I find myself feeling right shifting one gear over versus two on the 2x.
I forgot to weigh the parts separately to see what changed from a weight perspective, but just from the lift test, it seems like a wash. Little more weighted to the back now though.
Overall, I was really happy with that first test run. I need to put a few hundred miles on the setup before coming to any conclusion, but so far, so good.
Here is the gear ratio I went with:
Here is a pic of the setup. I am little concerned about chain length here. I feel like it should be longer, but its shifting really well in all of the gears thus far:
09-01-16, 01:14 PM
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I don't quite understand the "complication" and extra fiddling with FD - it is the simplest thing to set up properly.
Going from 50-34, I can understand people enjoying a 1x setup - better chainline in gears most used.
Going from a triple, it's not that much of a positive change IMO.
My preffered setup would still be a 30 (or 28) - 46 double.
Going from 50-34, I can understand people enjoying a 1x setup - better chainline in gears most used.
Going from a triple, it's not that much of a positive change IMO.
My preffered setup would still be a 30 (or 28) - 46 double.
09-01-16, 01:25 PM
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09-06-16, 01:21 PM
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I put another 60 miles on the 1x setup with weekend. No issues of note.
I pacelined some race folks and didn't feel like I was missing the gears I needed to stay in pace with them.
I also went up one of the toughest climbs I've done on it this weekend. Somewhere around 19% grade for a good ways and the climbing gears were fine for it.
I don't think I'll ride up anything tougher than that on this bike anyway, so the gears seem to be right in line for me.
One thing I liked is that I could maintain my cadence anywhere from +8% to -7% grades without conscious thought. I found it cool to be pedaling along at my normal cadence and look down and see that I was going up a 7.3% grade and didn't realize it. I had just instinctively shifted into the appropriate gear with my right hand subconsciously. That was worth the price of admission for me.
Also, I really dig how quiet it is. I like how quiet steel bikes are in general, the 1x is a good compliment to that removing the drive train noise from the equation and making my bike even more silent while riding. Another big plus for me personally.
So far, really digging the 1x setup. Looking like a keeper for me, but I need a couple hundred more miles to be sure.
Got a nice picture of the bike with 1x setup from the weekend as well:
I pacelined some race folks and didn't feel like I was missing the gears I needed to stay in pace with them.
I also went up one of the toughest climbs I've done on it this weekend. Somewhere around 19% grade for a good ways and the climbing gears were fine for it.
I don't think I'll ride up anything tougher than that on this bike anyway, so the gears seem to be right in line for me.
One thing I liked is that I could maintain my cadence anywhere from +8% to -7% grades without conscious thought. I found it cool to be pedaling along at my normal cadence and look down and see that I was going up a 7.3% grade and didn't realize it. I had just instinctively shifted into the appropriate gear with my right hand subconsciously. That was worth the price of admission for me.
Also, I really dig how quiet it is. I like how quiet steel bikes are in general, the 1x is a good compliment to that removing the drive train noise from the equation and making my bike even more silent while riding. Another big plus for me personally.
So far, really digging the 1x setup. Looking like a keeper for me, but I need a couple hundred more miles to be sure.
Got a nice picture of the bike with 1x setup from the weekend as well:
Last edited by Jarrett2; 09-06-16 at 01:26 PM.
09-06-16, 02:22 PM
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09-10-16, 11:43 AM
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150 miles in on the 1x setup. I'm pretty sold at this point.
I just finished a 45 mile with 1800 foot of climb and dug it the whole way. I can't quite articulate it, but there is something mentally positive about never feeling the need to drop to the little ring as I routinely did on climbs on my 2x setup. It's like admitting defeat when you have to kick that front DR over, hear the clanking of the chain, feel the pedals spin as you go to the granny gears to get up a hill. I never get that feeling with the 1x and it adds to the overall enjoyment of the ride.
And I can't get over how quiet it is. When I'm by myself, it allows me to hear everything around me more clearly. And it really becomes apparent when you ride with someone else.
On today's ride, I could hear the wind, my tires on the ground and the 2x carbon bike next to me rattling and clinking along on the Texas chipseal
I just finished a 45 mile with 1800 foot of climb and dug it the whole way. I can't quite articulate it, but there is something mentally positive about never feeling the need to drop to the little ring as I routinely did on climbs on my 2x setup. It's like admitting defeat when you have to kick that front DR over, hear the clanking of the chain, feel the pedals spin as you go to the granny gears to get up a hill. I never get that feeling with the 1x and it adds to the overall enjoyment of the ride.
And I can't get over how quiet it is. When I'm by myself, it allows me to hear everything around me more clearly. And it really becomes apparent when you ride with someone else.
On today's ride, I could hear the wind, my tires on the ground and the 2x carbon bike next to me rattling and clinking along on the Texas chipseal
10-26-16, 11:22 AM
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Thought some might be interested in a follow up. 845 miles now on the 1x setup and no plans on ever going back. I'm sold.
From a previous post:
Pros:
Less weight - not for me, I went with inexpensive parts on my first 1x build. If I did it again, I'd go lighter.
Less moving parts - true
Less things to break - true
More simplified setup - true
More reliable setup - so far seems to be true
No compensating on front DR setups - true
No dropped chains - none so far
No chain slapping - true
Quieter drivetrain - definitely true
Cons:
Larger gaps between gear changes - also true, but I've found it to be a non issue for me
Summary:
Call me a convert. I've had this setup on lots of types of rides including fast paceline type rides. I didn't find any difference with it from my 2x setup, but I only do those types of rides occasionally.
In this discussion, chain dropping has been pretty resounding. I haven't dropped a chain thus far in 845 miles of hard riding.
That said, two people I know went with a hybrid 1x setup (Q-Rings, SRAM Rings mixed with Shimano road and MTB parts) and they are struggling with dropping chains. This somewhat substantiates what SRAM support told me before my switch. They chain drops they see are with mixed systems, not with their dedicated 1x stuff.
Going forward, I plan on my bikes having 1x setups. Two out of the three I own, are already 1x.
From a previous post:
Pros:
Less weight - not for me, I went with inexpensive parts on my first 1x build. If I did it again, I'd go lighter.
Less moving parts - true
Less things to break - true
More simplified setup - true
More reliable setup - so far seems to be true
No compensating on front DR setups - true
No dropped chains - none so far
No chain slapping - true
Quieter drivetrain - definitely true
Cons:
Larger gaps between gear changes - also true, but I've found it to be a non issue for me
Summary:
Call me a convert. I've had this setup on lots of types of rides including fast paceline type rides. I didn't find any difference with it from my 2x setup, but I only do those types of rides occasionally.
In this discussion, chain dropping has been pretty resounding. I haven't dropped a chain thus far in 845 miles of hard riding.
That said, two people I know went with a hybrid 1x setup (Q-Rings, SRAM Rings mixed with Shimano road and MTB parts) and they are struggling with dropping chains. This somewhat substantiates what SRAM support told me before my switch. They chain drops they see are with mixed systems, not with their dedicated 1x stuff.
Going forward, I plan on my bikes having 1x setups. Two out of the three I own, are already 1x.
Last edited by Jarrett2; 10-26-16 at 11:32 AM.
10-26-16, 05:19 PM
#94
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Thanks for the report,
I'm definitely going with a 1X on my next bike or upgrade to my Traverse. I think it makes sense especially for my Florida riding.
I'm definitely going with a 1X on my next bike or upgrade to my Traverse. I think it makes sense especially for my Florida riding.
10-28-16, 10:15 PM
#95
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Sounds good Jarret! Though I got to point out not all setups will be the same, my 1X has chain slap, and I've dropped the chain for my first time a couple weeks ago. I was on really rough road on 25's. No biggie was pretty easy to get back on versus the couple of drops I've had on my 3x bike with the FD in the way. Though I don't think I had it dialed in perfectly, need to shorten the chain some more and see if I can get the tension up a bit on the RD.
10-31-16, 07:24 AM
#96
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I am starting to think chain tension makes a big difference on these setups.
Funny side note, I was riding next to a 2x buddy on Saturday morning and we hit a bump in the road at the same time and I heard something from his bike and thought, "What was that?"
I quickly realized it was chain slap. I haven't heard it in a while
Funny side note, I was riding next to a 2x buddy on Saturday morning and we hit a bump in the road at the same time and I heard something from his bike and thought, "What was that?"
I quickly realized it was chain slap. I haven't heard it in a while
10-31-16, 07:36 AM
#97
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I love my 18-108GI 1x drivetrain
11-03-16, 05:39 PM
#98
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Recently completed a 360-mile 6-day ride on my new 1x Rival 1 10-speed setup. I'm completely sold. Never needed a higher or lower gear and have become completely spoiled on the simplicity of single-control shifting. Never dropped a chain, never had the slightest malfunction.
- Mark
- Mark
11-04-16, 09:27 PM
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As some wise ones said, everything in cycling comes and goes. Double chainrings were an innovation that was much better than previous singles. Now singles are better - how much time to a new cycle of rediscovering the double?
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