So I'd like to replace all cabling and housing for shifting and brakes. Got the tool and the stuff - but how do I do that with the down-tube adjusters and brake adjusters? (What do you call them?) I have a 64cm Soma ES frame with Tektro long reach brakes. Going to be trying to install a 105 groupset (minus the brakes of course).

Any advice on how to set them up for replacing cables would be most welcome! Thanks.

If the current old/cables are still in place look at their routing and the lengths of the casing loops. Are the casing loops smooth curves or are their kinks at certain points? Note how the cable inners pass through the frame stops. Move /rotate the adjusters so you learn which way to turn them increases cable tension (actually increases casing length). Take photos of the points you'll forget...


Then if all was working well prior to replacing simply duplicate the set up. Remove the cables and casings and cut new casings to match the old lengths. I suggest doing one side (say the front) before the second side. Note that when you cut the casing the inner liner "tube" will often close up, a sharp prick will poke it open. Make sure you have the correct casing for each component and it's correct casing caps.


I generally thread the inner and casings together and not fully/finally tighten the anchor bolt till I've worked the system by pulling on the cable (if exposed cables just pull an open section of the inner). This helps to fully seat the casings and end caps. Then go back and do the final cable tension retightening. If you unthread the adjuster a few turns you can loosen a too tight cable... Place a drop of thin lube on the adjuster threads. Coat the inner cable with said thin lube, wipe off after hooking up the cable.


Take care when cutting the casing. Gear casing wants a shear action cutter that won't crush the casing and it's strands. Brake casing often has a burr after cutting so a file/whetstone/sandpaper might be needed to dress the casing end so it's burr free and is square.


There are any number of online instructions and likely dozens of vids showing more. Andy.

Thank you for saying this, it drives me up a wall when folks refer to "adjusting tension." The tension is set by the brake/derailleur spring, the adjustment is indeed changing the housing (and thus the effective cable) length.

Agreed. I think it's just (ignorantly) become the norm to say 'tension' as everyone knows what one means, even if it's the wrong term. There's a lot of it in the world

Climb down off that wall! There are lots and lots of other things to get your knickers in a knot about like the difference between a scale and a balance or whether a bike stands on its spokes or hangs from the wheel (it's the latter) or whether a strong rim makes for a strong wheel (it doesn't), etc.

There is no problem in saying you are "adjusting tension" on the cable by changing the length of the cable housing because that is exactly what you are doing. The tension on the cable is changing is it not? The brake or derailer spring doesn't change the tension on the cable when the device is in the relaxed state which it is when the cable is installed. When you pull on the lever to shift or to brake, you increase tension on the cable and the spring on the brake or derailer only serve to return the tension to the ground state.

If you want to be hyperprecise...and not a little ODC...about it, it's the shift lever or the brake lever that "adjusts" the tension on the cable.

For the most part, put in new cable housing that is the same length as what came off. If you have to remeasure the housing, make sure that the housing at the bars is long enough to allow you to turn the handlebars 90° in either direction without binding but you don't need to have it too long.

If you are installing new front and rear derailers work your way through these Park Tool articles on rear derailers and front derailers. Enjoy the time you spend messing with the limit screws because it will probably be the last time you need to adjust them if you do it properly.

If the shifting starts to deteriorate in the future (after a couple of hundred miles with new cables), don't adjust the limit screws! It's almost always a cable problem. Skip down to the part where it tells you how to adjust the index shifting and just adjust the tension on the cable. Yes, what you are doing is adjusting the cable tension.

Start with the adjusters at about the mid point. Screw them all the way in and then all the way out. Count the turns and then put them about half way. That's a good start.

Measure the housings a little long, install, test fit and remove/trim/reinstall as needed until it is right.

I've done it many times and still like to have some extra housing and cables on hand in case I make a mistake. If this is your first time then consider having two of everything on hand just in case. I used the cheap cables and housings from the roll the first few times because I knew I would make mistakes.

Also ask the LBS if they have some ferrules. They typically give me a handfull. It is good to have the small parts around.


-Tim-