fork binding in steer tube
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member


Joined: Nov 2014
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From: Saratoga calif.
Bikes: 2 ezip electric bikes, trek 800 antelope, nishiki international, 1948 schwin new world, phillippe french boutique bike
fork binding in steer tube
I brought another Raleigh Supercourse home from the bike exchange this weekend to clean up for sale and am having a problem with the head set bearings.
I removed the fork, cleaned the bearing races, replaced the loose bearings ( leaving one out both top and bottom) and re assembled everything.
When I adjusted the top nut to take out the play in the bearings I noticed that when the fork was rotated one way it would bind slightly. Turning it the other way there was no binding ( I was not turning it 360 deg as there is a cable stop on the fork which hits the frame if you turn it too much).
I also noted that when the front wheel was put into the fork it didn't align perfectly with the frame , being about 1/8" off center to the right looking from front to back.
I pulled on the fork blades a little and got the wheel to center in the fork and align properly but the dragging in the bearings worries me.
I did a close inspection of the frame and couldn't see any telltale signs of an impact. I also looked at the bearing race on the fork and it looks like it is seated properly.
What am I missing?
I think the bike will be rideable as is as a donation bike but I was hoping to put it in our big sale next week along side the other Super Course I just fixed up and and I can't let it go the way it is.
I removed the fork, cleaned the bearing races, replaced the loose bearings ( leaving one out both top and bottom) and re assembled everything.
When I adjusted the top nut to take out the play in the bearings I noticed that when the fork was rotated one way it would bind slightly. Turning it the other way there was no binding ( I was not turning it 360 deg as there is a cable stop on the fork which hits the frame if you turn it too much).
I also noted that when the front wheel was put into the fork it didn't align perfectly with the frame , being about 1/8" off center to the right looking from front to back.
I pulled on the fork blades a little and got the wheel to center in the fork and align properly but the dragging in the bearings worries me.
I did a close inspection of the frame and couldn't see any telltale signs of an impact. I also looked at the bearing race on the fork and it looks like it is seated properly.
What am I missing?
I think the bike will be rideable as is as a donation bike but I was hoping to put it in our big sale next week along side the other Super Course I just fixed up and and I can't let it go the way it is.
#2
Bikes are okay, I guess.



Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 8,007
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From: Richmond, Virginia
Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT, Jeunet mixte
Pull the fork and look inside the head tube. It was not uncommon in the old days to have frame tubes poking into spaces where they had no business being and you might find this to be the case. I had a Peugeot with a seat tube that extended 1/4" into the BB shell. It was no problem until I wanted to install a plastic sleeve or, later, a cartridge bottom bracket.
#4
Old fart



Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 26,378
Likes: 5,297
From: Appleton WI
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
When I adjusted the top nut to take out the play in the bearings I noticed that when the fork was rotated one way it would bind slightly. Turning it the other way there was no binding […]
I did a close inspection of the frame and couldn't see any telltale signs of an impact. I also looked at the bearing race on the fork and it looks like it is seated properly.
I did a close inspection of the frame and couldn't see any telltale signs of an impact. I also looked at the bearing race on the fork and it looks like it is seated properly.
#5
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 19,359
Likes: 5,492
From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Agreed with the bearings not being is parallel planes as a likely cause, although the Raleigh type headsets are very sensitive to proper ball counts. Very much so.
One work around without being able to machine the cup and crown seats is to replace the lower stack of the headset with a more common, less radial contact, cup and cone set. The more angular ball contact of the common loose ball headsets (other then the English/Raleigh types) is more forgiving of miss aligned seats. I have done this with a few headsets over the years.
Of course we trust hat the steerer's straightness has been established first. Andy
One work around without being able to machine the cup and crown seats is to replace the lower stack of the headset with a more common, less radial contact, cup and cone set. The more angular ball contact of the common loose ball headsets (other then the English/Raleigh types) is more forgiving of miss aligned seats. I have done this with a few headsets over the years.
Of course we trust hat the steerer's straightness has been established first. Andy
#6
Full Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 346
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From: Retired to Penang Malaysia originally from UK
Bikes: My 1978 Raleigh from new, 1995 Trek, & constant changing & rebuilding of other bike projects.





