Measuring Threaded Stack Height
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 8,206
Likes: 86
From: Metro Detroit/AA
Bikes: 2016 Novara Mazama
Measuring Threaded Stack Height
Sorry if this has been answered before, I can't seem to find an answer searching.
I am rebuilding an old bike. The headset is indexed and needs replaced, but I am not sure how to determine the proper stack height. What exactly do I need to measure to figure out what the old one is? I know it is a 1", just need to figure the height.
I am rebuilding an old bike. The headset is indexed and needs replaced, but I am not sure how to determine the proper stack height. What exactly do I need to measure to figure out what the old one is? I know it is a 1", just need to figure the height.
#2
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 7,861
Likes: 41
From: Coeur d' Alene
Bikes: 3 Chinese Gas Pipe Nerdcycles and 2 Chicago Electroforged Boat Anchors
Two halves. Top and bottom.
The bottom measurement is from the bottom of the crown race to where the lower cup meets the head tube.
The top measurement is from where the upper cup meets the head tube to the top of the lock nut.
Add them together for total stack height.
The bottom measurement is from the bottom of the crown race to where the lower cup meets the head tube.
The top measurement is from where the upper cup meets the head tube to the top of the lock nut.
Add them together for total stack height.
#4
Old fart



Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 26,324
Likes: 5,235
From: Appleton WI
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Stack height = measurement A plus measurement B:

Note that you can replace your headset with one of shorter stack height and just use spacers to take up the extra space. But you can't replace your headset with a taller headset than what you currently have.
If you have removed the headset cups and crown race from the frame and fork, you can measure the length of the frame head tube and the length of the fork steer tube from the race seat to the top. The difference between these two measurements is the maximum stack height your frame can accept.

Note that you can replace your headset with one of shorter stack height and just use spacers to take up the extra space. But you can't replace your headset with a taller headset than what you currently have.
If you have removed the headset cups and crown race from the frame and fork, you can measure the length of the frame head tube and the length of the fork steer tube from the race seat to the top. The difference between these two measurements is the maximum stack height your frame can accept.
Last edited by JohnDThompson; 02-16-26 at 07:44 AM. Reason: Replace missing photo
#5
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 8,206
Likes: 86
From: Metro Detroit/AA
Bikes: 2016 Novara Mazama
If you have removed the headset cups and crown race from the frame and fork, you can measure the length of the frame head tube and the length of the fork steer tube from the race seat to the top. The difference between these two measurements is the maximum stack height your frame can accept.
#6
Full Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 478
Likes: 53
From: Flat Rock, NC
The above answers to your question are correct. But it would be better to fit the replacement headset to the bike than try to accurately measure the old headset.
First, measure the actual head tube of the bike. If the headset is currently out of the bike, great. If not don't take it into account. You want the measurement of the frame of the bike. Second, measure the length of the steerer tube of the fork. From the bottom of the crown race - if its still on the bike - or the top of the fork crown - if not - to the top of the threaded steerer tube. Subtract the head tube measurement from the steerer tube measurement. That is the maximum headset stack height you can use with that bike and fork combination. If you have any required spacers; brake hangers, accessory brackets, etc, measure their thicknesses and subtract them from your previous total. Any headset with a published stack height of <= to your measurement will work. If its less you can make up the difference with some spacers or cut the steerer tube. (I'd go for spacers) If its more you will need new fork.
First, measure the actual head tube of the bike. If the headset is currently out of the bike, great. If not don't take it into account. You want the measurement of the frame of the bike. Second, measure the length of the steerer tube of the fork. From the bottom of the crown race - if its still on the bike - or the top of the fork crown - if not - to the top of the threaded steerer tube. Subtract the head tube measurement from the steerer tube measurement. That is the maximum headset stack height you can use with that bike and fork combination. If you have any required spacers; brake hangers, accessory brackets, etc, measure their thicknesses and subtract them from your previous total. Any headset with a published stack height of <= to your measurement will work. If its less you can make up the difference with some spacers or cut the steerer tube. (I'd go for spacers) If its more you will need new fork.
#7
Half way there

Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2,967
Likes: 895
From: North Carolina
Bikes: Many, and the list changes frequently
Coupster's method is spot on. I've found that it is a bit easier to insert the fork into the head tube with the race seat touching the bottom. Then all you have to do is measure the length of the steerer tube protruding from the top. You want a bit of room between the steerer tube head and the lock nut so subtract about 2 mm and you are in business. As others have said, you can always add spacers if your stack height is a bit low.
#8
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 8,206
Likes: 86
From: Metro Detroit/AA
Bikes: 2016 Novara Mazama
Are these spacers something that are generic and purchased separately from a headset, or would they be included? Most of what I am seeing when I do a search are marked for threadless.
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 7,579
Likes: 6
From: Pearland, Texas
Bikes: Cannondale, Trek, Raleigh, Santana
Brad
#10
Banned
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 43,586
Likes: 1,380
From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
Often the Keyed washer is forced to turn by the lock nut turning, , Digging into the fork steerer thread,
(I have used an aluminum <c> 'super record' spacer, the thread scored the tab instead)
Adding a non keyed spacer is fine, [Maybe better as it will spin rather than the keyed one] It just has to be close to 1" inside diameter..
I have used steel tubing, as spacers... and even used the Shop fork threading die to cut more thread..
...
(I have used an aluminum <c> 'super record' spacer, the thread scored the tab instead)
Adding a non keyed spacer is fine, [Maybe better as it will spin rather than the keyed one] It just has to be close to 1" inside diameter..
I have used steel tubing, as spacers... and even used the Shop fork threading die to cut more thread..
...
Last edited by fietsbob; 03-06-17 at 12:55 PM.
#11
SE Wis

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 11,546
Likes: 4,324
From: Milwaukee, WI
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Any co-op or LBS will have spacers often for free or nominal $. Just make sure to get 1"
I've found on old bikes the biggest problem is finding a short enough stack height headset. Tange Levins always seem to end up being what I use.
I've found on old bikes the biggest problem is finding a short enough stack height headset. Tange Levins always seem to end up being what I use.
#12
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 8,206
Likes: 86
From: Metro Detroit/AA
Bikes: 2016 Novara Mazama
OK, thanks for the assistance. From what I measure, my steerer tube is 144mm from bottom of crown race to top, my frame head tube is 104mm, so that gives me 40mm. The brake cable mount and spacer that was on the old one come out to 5mm, the Tange headset calls out a height of 30.8mm, so if I add 4mm of spacer to that headset, I should be right in the ballpark, correct?
#13
Old fart



Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 26,324
Likes: 5,235
From: Appleton WI
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
OK, thanks for the assistance. From what I measure, my steerer tube is 144mm from bottom of crown race to top, my frame head tube is 104mm, so that gives me 40mm. The brake cable mount and spacer that was on the old one come out to 5mm, the Tange headset calls out a height of 30.8mm, so if I add 4mm of spacer to that headset, I should be right in the ballpark, correct?
#14
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 8,206
Likes: 86
From: Metro Detroit/AA
Bikes: 2016 Novara Mazama
I'm not looking to drop tons of money on this, all I've found in the <$30 range is the Tange at 30.8, and the Velo Orange at 41. Thought about the VO, but once I add that brake line bracket back in that is up to ~43, and I am assuming 3mm is a bit too much extra height.
#15
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,672
Likes: 92
From: New Jersey
I don't really have anything to add, other than the Tange Levin is a solid, dependable headset, for relatively cheap. One of the few headsets still made that is "right" with an inverted top cup that sheds water over the bearing, rather than relying on sealing. Over pack the bottom, and spin the fork a few times, wiping off any excess grease that comes out, especially if you aren't running fenders.
Just make sure you buy the right one (measure your bike) as they make it in ISO and JIS sizing.
By the way, if a headset is close to fitting, but needs a bit more room, the included spacer can be substituted with a paper thin shim, or removed entirely. The top nut can also be swapped (or modified) for one with no lip on it, to allow it to be turned down the steer tube, regardless of the length. You may be able to find some old parts, which sometimes substituted a low-profile lockring for a top nut, if you are coming up short on threads...useful especially since a nut's threads don't actually start for a short distance from the end of the nut.
Just make sure you buy the right one (measure your bike) as they make it in ISO and JIS sizing.
By the way, if a headset is close to fitting, but needs a bit more room, the included spacer can be substituted with a paper thin shim, or removed entirely. The top nut can also be swapped (or modified) for one with no lip on it, to allow it to be turned down the steer tube, regardless of the length. You may be able to find some old parts, which sometimes substituted a low-profile lockring for a top nut, if you are coming up short on threads...useful especially since a nut's threads don't actually start for a short distance from the end of the nut.
#16
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 27
Likes: 5
I need your help
Hello everybody,
I was reading this thread because I want to install a new headset on a frame that I have found at the side of the road. I have taken photo of my measurements. If I am not mistaken, I can use a 1 inch threaded headset with a maximum stack height of 35mm and I need a JIS fork crown race since the fork crown measures 27mm. Am I right? The steerer is exactly 200mm long and the frame´s head tube is 165mm long.
I searched the Tange website and I found the model TG-235.
I want to use V-Brakes so I do not need to add a brake- housing-spacer or anything else, just to let you known.
I just want to know if I have not made a mistake!
Thanks a lot!!!




I was reading this thread because I want to install a new headset on a frame that I have found at the side of the road. I have taken photo of my measurements. If I am not mistaken, I can use a 1 inch threaded headset with a maximum stack height of 35mm and I need a JIS fork crown race since the fork crown measures 27mm. Am I right? The steerer is exactly 200mm long and the frame´s head tube is 165mm long.
I searched the Tange website and I found the model TG-235.
I want to use V-Brakes so I do not need to add a brake- housing-spacer or anything else, just to let you known.
I just want to know if I have not made a mistake!
Thanks a lot!!!




Last edited by muxens; 02-16-26 at 07:36 AM.
#17
Senior Member




Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 7,342
Likes: 3,201
From: NW Oregon
Bikes: 1982 Trek 930R Custom, '91 Diamondback Ascent w/ XT, XTR updates, Fuji Team Pro CF road flyer, Specialized Sirrus Gravel Convert, '09 Comencal Meta 5.5 XC, '02 Marin MBX500, '84 Gitane Criterium bike





