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Steve

Hope this thread is still active. I just realised that when I did the recent oil change in my Alfine 11 hub, I refilled with 50ml rather than 25. I now notice that there are oil seep on the drive belt after a ride. Do I simply reduce the volume of oil, or have I likely done some damage to the seals by over-filling that now needs to be looked at?

I doubt that the seals are damaged. They can leak even with the proper amount of oil in the hub; for example, if the bike is left lying with its driveside down for an extended time. By all means, remove the excess oil and keep an eye on the leakage.

Thanks, I finally sourced a 1 liter jug of oil and did a proper oil change. The leaking appears to have stopped.

I did notice one other strange thing: as the hub is coasting (freewheeling) - I have the bike upside down for service - I notice a tug on the pedals coming about twice per hub revolution. If I don’t hold the pedal, it would visibly move several times while the wheel is spinning fast, and then stop moving while the wheel continues to slow down. I haven’t noticed that kind of pattern before. I wonder what’s going on here?

Of the several internally-geared I have experience with, they all display a certain tendency to have the pedals moving in the situation you described. I believe this is due to a small amount of viscous drag from the oil or grease in the hub. There would be more tendency for the pedals to move when the wheel is rotating faster, but I have no explanation for the "twice per rotation" observation.

I am familiar with the drag of internal gear hubs - I use a Nexus 8 on my utility bike and a NuVinci on a kids tandem. What puzzled me about the Alfine 11 was the pulsating behaviour (“twice per revolution”). I ended up reducing the belt tension a little bit, which diminished the pulsation considerably. Could that be an effect of the load on the axle bearings? There is no play in the rear wheel that I can detect, but could this be an onset of bearing trouble?

The oil ports on the Rohloff and on the Alfine 11 are identical. You can, in principle, use the same oil change kit for either hub.

Or you could make your own, which I did. The connector to the hub oil port is an M6 by 1mm screw threaded hose barb, which I bought online (plus a suitable o-ring). The barb fits into 4mm i.d. clear poly tube.
Simply add a plastic syringe of 25ml or over (30ml, say, or 50ml) and you can add or drain oil from either type of hub. I used a luer-lock syringe with a suitable female luer-lock 4mm (5/32") plastic hose barb fitting.
Buy two of each, then you can use a separate dirty oil drain syringe to the clean oil fill syringe.

But what oil? As "washing oil" (or "rinsing oil") (Rohloff call this "Spülöl), you can use yellow-metal compatible ATF, which is very cheap and you can buy a litre at a time. For the lubricating oil ("Ganzjahresöl"), you will need 75w90 fully synthetic gear oil or grade GL-4 and of type MT-1, which means yellow metal compatible (brass, bronze etc).

With a few bits more tube and hose barbs, you can also use those syringes to bleed your hydraulic brakes. Bicycle hydraulic brakes using mineral oil (the most common variety) rather than DOT brake fluid (less common) can use LHM or LHM+ which was originally made for Citroen hydraulic systems, but is sold by lots of companies for around US$10 per litre or less. No point coughing up a fortune for stuff like Shimano or Magura branded brake mineral oil for 20 or more times as much.

But don't mix up your brake oil and your hub oil(s) !

What is the length of the screw?

thanks!

I'd have to take it out to measure it. It can't be more than 4 or 5 millimeters. If you really need the exact measurement, I will pull the plug and measure it this weekend.

my alfine 11 speed belt drive runs much quieter after i changed the oil-official green stuff. there was lots of black gunk in it

No problem

Next time you open.

I am still wafting for the new bike
thanks