Just noticed that Jones has a riser bar version of his H-Loop, adding 2.5" or so. I think I may have found the ticket to my height issue.

I'm thinking that, assuming you are committed to keeping this bike, the "A" answer would be to replace the fork and headset.

Also, think about reach as you are doing this. As you raise the handlebars your torso rotates toward the rear of the bike so you probably won't need as long of a stem as you used to have.

Yeah, the "A" answer you suggest is best, but the cons, which I haven't revealed, mainly that the bike has center pull DC700 brakes, so the fork has braze-on bosses for that, not to mention other braze-on for racks. I'm not inclined to switch out the brakes.

A shorter stem, for sure. Good thing is that the short stem is suggested by Jim Jones himself. I just posted earlier that I found the Jones has a riser version of his H-Loop bar, so my ultimate result may not be as awkward as I first thought. A short, but steep stem affixed to a regular length threaded-to-threadless adapter, plus the riser version of the H-bar should solve it me.

You might consider this stem. https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Alloy...te+2+bolt+stem

Since it opens up using a 2 bolt faceplate, you could easily mount the handlebars you want. And the stem itself has built-in rise, which may be enough for your needs.

For some reason 2-bolt quill stems aren't very common but they do allow you to remove the handlebars without unwrapping the bars on one side.

Oh, your aesthetics dont like the simplest choice?
Mr Jones has a single tube model with out the welded second tube , so you could thread the bars into the closed face stem..
and get the fit and grip angle ..

https://fat-bike.com/wp-content/uploa...es-h-bar-3.jpg

Quill to threadless keeps the threaded headset, has a quill plug that is 7/8" on the bottom 1.125" on the top.

You then put a threadless stem on that.. most basic is a steel tube, stem raiser..
hot rolled down to be 7/8 bottom > 1" top, ... then you use shims to go out to 1.125" ...

Others hate the looks of that. .... Soma/MerrySalesImports , has a tall quill to threadless.

NL designed BBB BHP 20 offers a way to play with spacers under the stem to create the look,,

Factory 5 Titan and Nitto UI-12 both have removable faceplate. Will work if they go high enough for you with the Jones.

Hey thanks for suggestions, fietsbob, and the pic. I think I'd prefer the full H-loop, so I've got the aero option available if need be.

Although I don't "hate" the first setup you describe the way Soma/MerrySalesImports do, it does, well, uh, look a little weird. I think it's the perception of mass/volume, going from a thinner tube to support a more voluminous superstructure on top, like a fat guy with really skinny legs?

But, I think you may have my answer! Fake it! Play with spacers under the stem to "create the look". Within a suitable liner/shim to keep them from rattling and shaking about. That would get rid of the fat guy/skinny legs aesthetic. Here's a pic of the NL's BBB BHP 20. Those are removable spacers to "play with", I presume?

If I owned a Mariposa touring bike, I would never ever think about selling it. I would do anything it takes to make it fit me. I feel this way because I own a Gilles Bertrand touring bike that I love to ride. Mike Barry is a Canadian cycling icon. His legacy lives on through his son who has revived the company

Thanks for the suggestion, speeddevil. It would probably work, except the Jone H-bar has a 31.8mm clamp diameter, and Sunlite you point out doesn't appear to go that large. Shucks. I think there would have been enough height, though.

shaft of the BHP 20 is 22.2mm 7/8" , keyed shims take it out to the same OD as the fork. 1"

use less , to bury the quill shaft deeper in the fork , add the 1" to 1.125" stem shim.. on the top..

the spacers under the stem would come out from those, a spacer ID of 1" , so you need to buy those in addition,
ie, those made for 1" threadless forks..

I used the BHP 21, on my threadless fork with a too short cut steerer..

https://www.cyclofiend.com/working/im...-5P1010010.jpg

the steerer spacers went over the BBB BHP 21, using all of their keyed spacers.. I still get to use the top cap adjustment..


(I get the aero headwind posture on that bike's Trekking bars)








....

Yeah, I kinda feel privileged to have my own Mariposa, designed by Mike Barry. That said, I also feel pretty sheepish about mucking around with it. To be honest, I was dreading a post like yours, someone who appreciates the iconic status of Mariposa in the Canadian cycling community! hehe That said, I would never make any structural changes. I've kept all the original parts and the bike is in very good condition. I did switch out the original wheels, though, because they had those pain-the-rear helicomatic hubs.

But times have changed and I have changed and trends have evolved, especially touring geometries, I think, in positive, progressive ways. That evolution somewhat dates the Mariposa, even though it'll still be around 50 years from now, long after I'm six feet under. I guess I'm more dated than the darn bike!

Yes, I know the Bertrand, although not intimately. I checked one out for sale on kijji in Ottawa, but rats, didn't fit!

Bertrand built very few touring bikes, and mine isn't all that great for what it is supposed to be designed for. Gilles Bertrand bikes were mostly built for racing. The reason that I treasure mine is that it was custom built for a friend, I remember him showing it off at the beginning of one of our club rides many years ago. He rode it for years, even adapted it for time trials one time. It is beautifully crafted, and probably overbuilt with Columbus SPX tubing that was usually used in super stiff track bikes. My friend died a few years ago at a very young age. He was a very good person. Every time I ride "his" bike, I remember him

Thanks Lester. I did do a quick check on both your suggestions. Yes, they've got the correct 31.8mm clamp size and removable face plate. A tiny bit on the short side, maybe. I tried to find the same thing, only with an upward stem rise instead of down or level. But no luck. I need to look harder. A 17 or 25 degree rise might get me there.

Nitto quill, oversize bar 4 bolt faceplate.


https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...6&category=784


Nova Cycle supply probably has all the materials for your friendly frame builder to make one with a different angle ..

I got the long technomic bolt & wedge thru my LBS, who got it from QBP.






....

I envy you guys with the luxury of handy urban amenities, like your friendly frame builder. I live in Prince Edward Island, a cold heap of red dirt flung out in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. The closest I could probably come to a friendly frame builder might be Uncle Floyd's Collision & Repair. [[cringe]]

That said, your reply is still really helpful because I've been combing Nova Cycle's website with curiosity.

Thanks fietsbob. I understand the first part of your explanation. I didn't realize these were "keyed shims", not plain spacers. So, remove or add keyed shims as needed to get the desired depth of the BHP 20 in the steerer tube. I'm foggy on the second step. You say, "add the 1" to 1.25" (25.4mm to 28.6mm) on top". If I look at the photo below of the BHP 20/21, there doesn't appear to be a 1" to 1.25" shim like you describe. All shims appear to have the same diameter. It's spec'd at going from 22.2mm to 25.4mm, not 28.6mm.

So, I'm assuming that you mean I'd have to buy a shim to take the 1" up to 1.25" separately? And to install that top shim, I'd necessarily have to remove enough of original shims to fit the 1" to 1.25" final, topmost shim. Does the 1" shim have a key slot for the 1.25" shim to slide into with its key? What would be the length of the 1.25" shim?

And do I get this correctly? I.e. that the finishing spacers with 1" ID would slip underneath the 1.25" shim, the end result being that there would be only one diameter (1.25") of tubing top to bottom, not two like would happen with a regular threaded to threadless quill stem extender (7/8" out of the steerer tube then 1.125" top section where stem attaches).

Thanks for the photo, fietsbob. Your stem setup looks fine, and pretty much what I'd want to achieve, and your trekking bar is about the same height I'd need.

Sorry to pester you with what may seem easy and obvious to you. That 1" to 1.25" shim has got me puzzled. I'm hoping that I'm just missing something really obvious, obvious enough to need to respond with "Doh!"

This quill stem at Velo Orange has a 31.8 removable faceplate and lots of rise.

https://velo-orange.com/collections/...ceplate-31-8mm

BBB used shims they made, molded with an anti rotation key to fit in a groove (shown) in the quill shaft , they are 1/16th thick ,
like the tube wall of the steerer tube so they are combined to be the same 1 " outside diameter.. 25.4mm


I have bought threadless stems , and they included the split shim to use that on a 1" threadless fork.

Otherwise, they should be available from where you get the stem ..



FYI .... 0.125 " is 1/8" _ 1.25" is one and a quarter inch _ 31.8 the metric equivalency. (31.75, to be more accurate)







...

Another option, thanks Cross Creek. Ain't ugly either.

Thanks for pointing out my measurement typo. Took a while, but pretty sure I finally understand your suggested BBB BHP-20/21 setup. I went to the BBB site. Took a screen shot of their manual. It illustrates the 1" to 1.125" shim (if needed).

You may not need more height for the Jones bar. Stem length must be varied to use the Jones and that will have some impact on height.I suggest you try the Jones before buying one .some people have great luck with the Jones and some (me) find it a terrible bar, but, the point is its use impacts stem length.

Thanks for the tip, Gronck. Pretty sure you're right because I believe Jeff Jones, himself, has suggested his bar tends to work better with a shorter stem.

I've also read some tales of folks who's initial response to the Jone H-bar was a downer, but after fiddling with its horizontal tilt and stem length, they came to like the bar. I'd assume, though, that you tried it out in different setups and still it couldn't win you over.

[QUOTE=bashley;20082561]Thanks for the tip, Gronck. Pretty sure you're right because I believe Jeff Jones, himself, has suggested his bar tends to work better with a shorter stem.

I've also read some tales of folks who's initial response to the Jone H-bar was a downer, but after fiddling with its horizontal tilt and stem length, they came to like the bar. I'd assume, though, that you tried it out in different setups and still it couldn't win you over.[/QUOTE
I tried everything: different stem lengths, height,grips, tilt. It was on my purpose built gravel bike(Rove Ti frame). Setup is great with drop bars,but, went to wide gravel tires and other mods for rough and steep gravel so spent the money convinced the Jones would work,but , it didn't. Flat bars work great on the bike with the same rise as the drops had. I am 70 and not flexible. I found the Jones put my wrists is a painful position and that the other handholds were pretty well useless. The Jones puts you in a very different position on the bike. My trial period was 7 months and many k of riding. So, once again, try before you buy. As you have a Mariposa and know Mike Barry I'll assume you are in Canada and the Jones bars are very expensive here.

[QUOTE=Gronck;20082885]Thanks for the followup, Gronck. Definitely giving me cause for second thoughts on the Jone H-Bar. In fact, I'm reconsidering the abandonment of drop bars. I should give the newer styles of drop bars a good look, like the Cowchipper or Nitto, something with shorter reach, shallower drops, some flare, flatter ramps, maybe wider, all features all absent on my old Cinelli.

I've also got a 84 Miyata Terra Runner, my work commuter. I'm the original owner! I understand there's something of a cult for these old triple-butted Japanese frames and their readiness for conversion into good tourers. Maybe I could try a set of trekking bars on that one, a cheap experiment since no need to have to switch shifters or brake levers.