hey y'all,

I had a quick question about a Ritchey Logic threaded headset.

I've been having a hard time installing it onto my '96 cannondale 2.8 r2000. At first I wasn't able to eliminate play (even when fully tightening the headset). I realized the bearings are top and bottom specific which helped but then realized that the locknut on top was bottoming out.

Are there any special tricks or things to keep in mind when installing this specific headset?

I received the headset along with the frame and fork from another ******er so I assume that they are all compatible and I'm just woefully ignorant about how to properly install them.

Thanks!

All the Ritchey tech manuals are online in pdf format.

TECHNICAL INFORMATION & USER MANUALS

# 5 is supposed to cover all the headsets, and should have some diagrams/information.

It sounds like your fork steerer is too long. Which is usually dealt with by adding a washer under the locknut so it doesn't bottom out. The bike probably had a taller headset at one time.

Could be wrong, though. Just basing that on what you explained.

I'm thinking the same thing as Kontact in that your headset has what's called a different "stack height" than the previous one. Stack height is how much the headset protrudes from the headtube once it's installed and yours is probably slightly shorter than the original headset which is easily fixed, as Kontact mentioned, by just adding a spacer under the top nut which most bikes shops will have in stock.

How could the locknut bottom out if the top race is threaded down far enough to properly adjust the bearings. I also expect the steerer is too tall and the threads don't go down far enough to screw down the top race, not the locknut.

A well equipped bike shop could extend the threads enough to allow the adjustment to be made correctly.

Some locknuts have a wrap-over cap that doesn't allow the steerer to poke through. These locknuts stop threading down when cap contacts top of steerer. I know for sure Campy and Tange headsets are like this. Not familiar with that vintage Ritchey though. As others mentioned, a washer or two between locknut and adjustable cup will allow locknut to press on cup.

Also trick with these old headsets is you want to unscrew the adjustable-cup upwards while screwing down the locknut. This provides more positive locking action than the locknut alone. So make an extra 1/16th turn tighter on adjustable-cup to allow for this unscrewing amount.

Would help if the OP posted some pictures of what he has. Assembled and disassembled.

I've never seen a locknut that positively stops at the steerer top but I've seen several with a plastic O-ring that makes them a tight fit on the steerer if you try to thread them down too far as does act as a sort of depth stop.

There may be two issues in play here. First, it appears the Ritchey headset may have a shorter stack than the original headset, so the top nut bottoms out on the steer tube before locking against the lower pieces. This is easily remedied with a a spacer(s).

Second, if the headset can't be adjusted without either play or binding, this suggests that the upper and lower races are not properly aligned. This can happen if the pressed-on pieces (crown race, and upper and lower head tube pieces) are not fully seated or if the crown race seat and/or head tube faces are not properly milled.

Look for gaps between the crown race and fork crown, and between the head tube pieces and frame. If you see a gap, that part is not fully seated. Use a crown race seater tool (aka "slide hammer") and/or headset press to fully seat the parts. If you're lucky, that should fix the problem. If the problem persists, take the frame and fork to a well-equipped shop to be milled into alignment.

All threaded headsets I've seen have a lip on the top locknut that prevents it from threading beyond the top of the steer tube.

Yes but the "lip" on the ones I have is a plastic ring that does act as a stop but could be pushed out if you keep tightening beyond the end of the steerer.

Ahhh, we just have to take a trip down memory lane... Cheapo headset had plastic or rubber top, nicer ones had one-piece locknuts that cover the unsightly rusty end of cut steerer tube. Campy for example, never ever made a locknut that allowed the steerer to peek through. He considered that unprofessional, what kind of mechanic doesn't know how to measure and properly cut a steerer tube.






Tange too has solid top. Their BMX headsets even have a screw that you can tighten down onto the adjustable-cup for really tight locking.

Weird. I believe you, but I've only witnessed the opposite. All of mine, ranging from super cheapos to decent, very old to modern, have a lip (collar?) at the top of the nut.

I offer an exception, Bike Friday .. they have headsets with the threaded steerer tube passing through the head set..
and continuing upward.

with a clamped on extension to support a Quill fixed handle bar mast .. that continues upwards from there..

On my Pocket Llama It's a 1,25" CK Gripnut.. Mr Kings company alters their product for the other Oregon Company. (Upstream on the same river)


Now back to topic at hand...



...

This ^^^^ is it. And no.................you are not wrong. I've installed dozens/tons/lots/whole buncha 1" threaded headsets where the top cap stops at the top of the fork steerer.

This ^^^^ is it. And no.................you are not wrong. And to the other concern(s), I've installed dozens/tons/lots/whole buncha 1" threaded headsets where the top cap stops at the top of the fork steerer.

I have a 1" threaded Ritchey Logic headset purchased in 2017. The top nut DOES have a lip which covers the end of the threads on the steerer tube. This would prevent this upper nut from being tightened against the threaded bearing cup if the steerer was too long. The stack height is fairly low at 33mm.