Reducer headsets
#1
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Reducer headsets
I need to go from 1.5" to 1 1/8", torn between a few options. Should I run the "problem solver" spacers and a 1 1/8" headset, or a reducer headset (leaning toward Crank Bros Opium C)? Or is a reducer headset essentially the same thing as option 1 (doesnt look like it...)?
#2
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I use both and both solutions work well. I prefer a reducer headset, though. The extra room gives the designers the ability to use larger bearings to take the load and the leeway to design a headset with almost no stack height.
Headset reducers are fine, though, especially if you already have the 1 1/8" headset on hand and wish to make use of it. The reducers insert as far as a deep-insertion headset, usually, so there is no danger of ovalizing a headtube just because you run an adapter. And if you want a bit of extra insurance, you can press a deep-insertion headset into the reducer.
If you want a super-beefy reducer heaset, check out the Syncros FBI. Yeah, it's a bit heavier than most; but that's a real Timken tapered roller bearing in the bottom end of that sucker.
Headset reducers are fine, though, especially if you already have the 1 1/8" headset on hand and wish to make use of it. The reducers insert as far as a deep-insertion headset, usually, so there is no danger of ovalizing a headtube just because you run an adapter. And if you want a bit of extra insurance, you can press a deep-insertion headset into the reducer.
If you want a super-beefy reducer heaset, check out the Syncros FBI. Yeah, it's a bit heavier than most; but that's a real Timken tapered roller bearing in the bottom end of that sucker.
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Last edited by dminor; 05-12-11 at 10:37 PM.
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I run a Cane Creek reducer headset on my Cannondale- originally it had a HeadShok, now has a Manitou. It works great. I have the reducer rings from problem solvers, but thought the reducer headset was a better option.