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Hand strength < squeeze linear pull brakes to install wheel

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Hand strength < squeeze linear pull brakes to install wheel

Old 07-25-18, 01:44 PM
  #1  
framistat
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Hand strength < squeeze linear pull brakes to install wheel

Arthritis is affecting my hands.

I'm able to do most things, but removing/installing a wheel is a problem, because I can't squeeze the brakes enough to disengage/re-engage the noodle.

I even tried a big zip tie, but I couldn't pull it hard enough to make it work.

Ideas anyone? I may have to buy a tool, maybe a large c-clamp? Not sure I could squeeze 4-5" channel locks.
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Old 07-25-18, 01:53 PM
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Aha! Mini bar clamp works great!
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Old 07-25-18, 07:57 PM
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You will need to take the tool with you lest you get stuck on the road. Maybe something like this would work for you and be light enough to carry: https://www.amazon.com/Third-Hand-Br.../dp/B0787T5KWD
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Old 07-25-18, 07:59 PM
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Back off your cable adjuster at the brake lever on the handlebar.
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Old 07-26-18, 01:54 AM
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These may work. 4 1/2" size is the smallest I've seen. Also in 6" length. https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-QUICK...mps/1000235699 Also something like this but may not fit in the space available. https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-QUICK...amp/1000209415

Last edited by Crankycrank; 07-26-18 at 01:58 AM.
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Old 07-26-18, 02:48 AM
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Originally Posted by framistat View Post
Aha! Mini bar clamp works great!
I use these also in helping set a caliper brake
'

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-6...3139/204389199
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Old 07-26-18, 03:13 AM
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Originally Posted by framistat View Post
Arthritis is affecting my hands.

I'm able to do most things, but removing/installing a wheel is a problem, because I can't squeeze the brakes enough to disengage/re-engage the noodle.
V-brakes?

Push the brake arms together with your palms. Push or pull the boot away from the noodle. Slide your hand out until your pinky finger is holding the boot arm. Use your thumb and forefinger to pull the boot out.
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Old 07-26-18, 06:10 AM
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Thanks dsbrantjr, but reviews indicate that tool is too small to work around larger tires, mine are 700c x 38.

Trailangel, yes, although I prefer not to if possible.

Crankycrank and JoeTBM, exactly, works great.

Toast3d, linear pull... v-brakes don't have a noodle.

Last edited by framistat; 07-26-18 at 06:18 AM. Reason: more words
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Old 07-26-18, 06:48 AM
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i had a similar problem and I cut the tip off of the noodle, so I don't have to squeeze as much to remove the noodle. You will need to use a dremel and make sure that you have free cable travel..
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Old 07-26-18, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by trailangel View Post
Back off your cable adjuster at the brake lever on the handlebar.
If you have to do anything other than this, adjust your levers and cables so you can do this.
Some times brakes are set up so that there is not enough free play in the system to remove the noodle when the brake arms are squeezed together. loosen the cable anchor on the brake arm and add a tiny bit of slack to the cable, then take up that slack with the adjuster on the lever. Now when you need to remove the wheel, you can turn the adjuster, loosen the cable, and be able to squeeze the brake arms enough to get the noodle off.
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Old 07-26-18, 12:20 PM
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brake?

Un hook the return springs , then once it's together,
put them back where they were, 1 at a time..

Or , let the air out of the tire* and you can get it out leaving the brake be.

* puncture does this for you.

after mending your flat, put the wheel back in soft, then pump it up firm.



...

Last edited by fietsbob; 07-26-18 at 12:26 PM.
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Old 07-26-18, 12:36 PM
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I think if you had more slack in the line it would be easier to unhook the noodle. Shimano makes a quick release thing that will do that - "Shimano SM-CB90 In-line Cable Adjuster"


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Old 07-26-18, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by framistat View Post
v-brakes don't have a noodle.
...

https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-V-Brake-Noodle
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Old 07-26-18, 03:01 PM
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upgrade to a frame with disc brakes
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Old 07-26-18, 04:26 PM
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aggiegrads: Velly intellesting :-)

leob1: Thank you very much for that explanation.

fietsbob: Actually, the air was out of the tires, as the bike had just been shipped, and I added Mr Tuffy liners before assembly.

tyrion: Also interesting.

Toast3d: Ok, so technically you are correct. From BikeRadar:

V-Brakes

This is the generic name that was invented by Shimano -SRAM call it Linear-pull but they're essentially the same.



wsteve464: For someone retired on disability, that's not an option.
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Old 07-27-18, 05:24 AM
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This is what I did to my noodle. Do this at your own risk. I only ride this bike on CX courses, not on the road. I took this to the max, you should only cut off what you need to be able to unhook the brake. The brake return springs needs to be strong enough that the noodle doesn't come off too easily. Make sure that the noodle is seated EVERY TIME you reconnect the brake.



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Old 07-28-18, 08:28 PM
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If you are concerned about wheel removal while out on the road install a tube with a removable valve core and put some tubeless tire sealer in the tube as a back up. Works for me with goatheads.
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Old 07-28-18, 09:19 PM
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Deflate the tire and slip the wheel out. Any road removals will likely be a flat which automatically deflates you for wheel removing.

When patched or replacing of tube is done, inflate after wheel has been installed in bike.
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Old 07-28-18, 09:23 PM
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I just tried this out in the garage, and it seems to work: An old fashioned toe strap around the two brake arms. That would be easy to roll up and stow in the seat bag.
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Old 07-29-18, 11:25 AM
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Another thought, ...for road bar V brakes
there are 'noodles' with a cable adjuster on their top end .
because unlike straight bar levers , no adjuster is on road levers..

you can loosen that and make cable slack , then tighten it again
once its back together..

right at the wheel caliper..
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/cables/t...juster-90-deg/


Last edited by fietsbob; 07-29-18 at 11:48 AM.
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Old 07-30-18, 05:02 AM
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Those mini bar clamps are definitely the answer as a third hand. No real need for a specialty tool.
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