Hand strength < squeeze linear pull brakes to install wheel
07-25-18 | 01:44 PM
#1
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Hand strength < squeeze linear pull brakes to install wheel
Arthritis is affecting my hands.
I'm able to do most things, but removing/installing a wheel is a problem, because I can't squeeze the brakes enough to disengage/re-engage the noodle.
I even tried a big zip tie, but I couldn't pull it hard enough to make it work.
Ideas anyone? I may have to buy a tool, maybe a large c-clamp? Not sure I could squeeze 4-5" channel locks.
I'm able to do most things, but removing/installing a wheel is a problem, because I can't squeeze the brakes enough to disengage/re-engage the noodle.
I even tried a big zip tie, but I couldn't pull it hard enough to make it work.
Ideas anyone? I may have to buy a tool, maybe a large c-clamp? Not sure I could squeeze 4-5" channel locks.
07-25-18 | 01:53 PM
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Aha! Mini bar clamp works great!
07-25-18 | 07:57 PM
#3
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From: Roswell, GA
Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta
You will need to take the tool with you lest you get stuck on the road. Maybe something like this would work for you and be light enough to carry: https://www.amazon.com/Third-Hand-Br.../dp/B0787T5KWD
07-26-18 | 01:54 AM
#5
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These may work. 4 1/2" size is the smallest I've seen. Also in 6" length. https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-QUICK...mps/1000235699 Also something like this but may not fit in the space available. https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-QUICK...amp/1000209415
Last edited by Crankycrank; 07-26-18 at 01:58 AM.
07-26-18 | 02:48 AM
#6
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I use these also in helping set a caliper brake
'
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-6...3139/204389199
'
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-6...3139/204389199
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07-26-18 | 03:13 AM
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Push the brake arms together with your palms. Push or pull the boot away from the noodle. Slide your hand out until your pinky finger is holding the boot arm. Use your thumb and forefinger to pull the boot out.
07-26-18 | 06:10 AM
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Thanks dsbrantjr, but reviews indicate that tool is too small to work around larger tires, mine are 700c x 38.
Trailangel, yes, although I prefer not to if possible.
Crankycrank and JoeTBM, exactly, works great.
Toast3d, linear pull... v-brakes don't have a noodle.
Trailangel, yes, although I prefer not to if possible.
Crankycrank and JoeTBM, exactly, works great.
Toast3d, linear pull... v-brakes don't have a noodle.
Last edited by framistat; 07-26-18 at 06:18 AM. Reason: more words
07-26-18 | 08:30 AM
#10
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From: Middle of the road, NJ
If you have to do anything other than this, adjust your levers and cables so you can do this.
Some times brakes are set up so that there is not enough free play in the system to remove the noodle when the brake arms are squeezed together. loosen the cable anchor on the brake arm and add a tiny bit of slack to the cable, then take up that slack with the adjuster on the lever. Now when you need to remove the wheel, you can turn the adjuster, loosen the cable, and be able to squeeze the brake arms enough to get the noodle off.
Some times brakes are set up so that there is not enough free play in the system to remove the noodle when the brake arms are squeezed together. loosen the cable anchor on the brake arm and add a tiny bit of slack to the cable, then take up that slack with the adjuster on the lever. Now when you need to remove the wheel, you can turn the adjuster, loosen the cable, and be able to squeeze the brake arms enough to get the noodle off.
07-26-18 | 12:20 PM
#11
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brake?
Un hook the return springs , then once it's together,
put them back where they were, 1 at a time..
Or , let the air out of the tire* and you can get it out leaving the brake be.
* puncture does this for you.
after mending your flat, put the wheel back in soft, then pump it up firm.
...
put them back where they were, 1 at a time..
Or , let the air out of the tire* and you can get it out leaving the brake be.
* puncture does this for you.
after mending your flat, put the wheel back in soft, then pump it up firm.
...
Last edited by fietsbob; 07-26-18 at 12:26 PM.
07-26-18 | 12:36 PM
#12
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I think if you had more slack in the line it would be easier to unhook the noodle. Shimano makes a quick release thing that will do that - "Shimano SM-CB90 In-line Cable Adjuster"
07-26-18 | 02:54 PM
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07-26-18 | 04:26 PM
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aggiegrads: Velly intellesting :-)
leob1: Thank you very much for that explanation.
fietsbob: Actually, the air was out of the tires, as the bike had just been shipped, and I added Mr Tuffy liners before assembly.
tyrion: Also interesting.
Toast3d: Ok, so technically you are correct. From BikeRadar:
V-Brakes
This is the generic name that was invented by Shimano -SRAM call it Linear-pull but they're essentially the same.
wsteve464: For someone retired on disability, that's not an option.
leob1: Thank you very much for that explanation.
fietsbob: Actually, the air was out of the tires, as the bike had just been shipped, and I added Mr Tuffy liners before assembly.
tyrion: Also interesting.
Toast3d: Ok, so technically you are correct. From BikeRadar:
V-Brakes
This is the generic name that was invented by Shimano -SRAM call it Linear-pull but they're essentially the same.
wsteve464: For someone retired on disability, that's not an option.
07-27-18 | 05:24 AM
#16
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From: Sherwood, OR
This is what I did to my noodle. Do this at your own risk. I only ride this bike on CX courses, not on the road. I took this to the max, you should only cut off what you need to be able to unhook the brake. The brake return springs needs to be strong enough that the noodle doesn't come off too easily. Make sure that the noodle is seated EVERY TIME you reconnect the brake.
07-28-18 | 09:19 PM
#18
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Bikes: RSO E-tire dropper fixie brifter
Deflate the tire and slip the wheel out. Any road removals will likely be a flat which automatically deflates you for wheel removing.
When patched or replacing of tube is done, inflate after wheel has been installed in bike.
When patched or replacing of tube is done, inflate after wheel has been installed in bike.
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07-29-18 | 11:25 AM
#20
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Another thought, ...for road bar V brakes
there are 'noodles' with a cable adjuster on their top end .
because unlike straight bar levers , no adjuster is on road levers..
you can loosen that and make cable slack , then tighten it again
once its back together..
right at the wheel caliper..
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/cables/t...juster-90-deg/
there are 'noodles' with a cable adjuster on their top end .
because unlike straight bar levers , no adjuster is on road levers..
you can loosen that and make cable slack , then tighten it again
once its back together..
right at the wheel caliper..
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/cables/t...juster-90-deg/
Last edited by fietsbob; 07-29-18 at 11:48 AM.
