Has anyone tried using slim wrenches instead of cone wrenches. I'm curious if I should get a specific cone wrench or set of cone wrenches (Park) for rebuilding hubs vs a slim wrench/wrench set that would also double as automotive slim wrenches. I was looking at these Capri wrenches https://capritools.com/shop/super-th...enches-metric/.

I assume someone has been down this road before. Maybe it is better to have bike specific tools where they make sense (ex. Park cassette tool, BB tools), and automotive tools for everything else (Ex. ratchets and sockets and normal wrenches from a automotive tool company).

I use both. There are some spots where only a cone wrench really works.

Get cone wrenches for working on hubs. Those 'slim' wrenches get thicker as they go up in size and I'm betting the sizes needed for most hubs (15-17mm) are probably too thick.

Those "thin wrenches" are 2.2 to 4.6mm thick, and it doesn't say how thick the ones are that would be most likely used for bearing cones (13-15mm).
Park Tools cone wrenches are all 2.0mm thick. FWIW.
EDIT: D'oh... CXWrench beat me to it!

There is a chart if you scroll down a bit, which has the thickness of each wrench in hundredths of an inch (lol ya not great for metric). Sounds like bike specific stuff makes sense in this application.
Thanks!

Cone wrenches are bike specific and are the only things that can fit in wheel hubs.

It's ok that cone wrenches are stamped from flat steel because hub nuts are of low torque.

Automotive slim wrenches will not fit into hub nuts at all, and are better suited for axle nuts which are at the ends anyways, and also pedals that don't have the hex allen.

Under no circumstances do you use cone wrenchs for pedals.

MKS quick-release pedals have couplers with wrench flats too thin for regular wrenches. Cone wrenches work nicely for these and, IME, don't get damaged. Park Tools cone wrenches are pretty sturdy.
Otherwise, I agree with you completely.

If it helps, you really only need a couple 15 mm cone wrenches for most hubs. I use a standard metric wrench or even a Crescent adjustable wrench for the outside nuts (they're easier to keep on the nut flats than the skinny 17 mm cone wrench).

You might could find a thin tappet wrench set. But then you'll have to buy two of them so you can have a pair of the sizes you need.

Just get the cone wrenches and be done with it!.

A pedal wrench, Park Tool or compatible, is still the proper tool for these, because a proper pedal wrench is about 2x-3x thicker than a cone wrench.

The MKS quick-release couplers appear to have ample space to justify a proper pedal wrench, whereas a hub nut has only enough space for only a cone wrench.

As a 20-year user of MKS AR2-EZY pedals, and owner of a Park Tools PW-4, I can confirm that the latter will not fit the couplers, but the Park cone wrench will. I'll see if I can get some images for you. I completely agree that a pedal wrench *should* be used for pedals... if there is enough space.

I understand, please bear in mind you created a fringe point to which very few or no one at all will ever have these specific pedals.

I've seen too many people use cone wrenches in an attempt to remove pedals to which they messed up their cheap tool and scarred pedals badly.

I am almost certain MKS themselves may have a specific tool for them as anything to do with a pedal on a crank requires a PROPER tool that is both hardened enough and sufficient length to provide necessary torque that a thin short and soft cone wrench can not provide, ever.

Again, NEVER use a cone wrench for pedals, period.

I can't speak to how may other people have these pedals, though I suspect I'm not the only one in the world. As for "no one at all"... we know there's at least one!

Possibly you have never seen a Park Tools cone wrench. They are hardened and more than up to this task. I grant that it shouldn't be necessary to use them, but there it is.

"Never" is a pretty strong word; there's almost always an "off-label" use for things. How 'bout we agree that no one should use a cone wrench for removing a pedal unless it's the only tool that will work?
(Notice that I'm not asking who made you the Grand Poobah of Appropriate Tool Application! )

There is a reason why they make cone wrenches. If you have cones you need to tighten or loosen you the proper tool for the job. Cheap wrenches designed for other purposes are certainly not a good thing to use and in general cheap tools are only for really rich people who can afford to buy new ones or replace parts they break or strip.

Cheap tools have their place as Harbor Freight can attest to.

I don't need the $60 sockets for Dana 44 and GM 14 bolt spindle nuts when the $14 ones work for the few times in my life I need to work on them.

Here are some images of the Park Tools pedal and cone wrenches showing their relative thicknesses and the relationship of the pedal wrench to the MKS pedal coupler.
While I agree that cone wrenches generally should not be used for other high-torque applications such as pedals or pedal couplers, there is at least one example of use of a cone wrench being successfully used for pedals. It is possible that there exists a pedal wrench slightly thinner, which would be suitable for these pedals.


On the left is the Park Tools cone wrench, next to its thicker cousin, the pedal wrench. They both seem to be made of the same hard, high-quality steel.


Park Tools pedal wrench thickness: about 4.75mm.


Park Tools cone wrench thickness: a bit over 2mm.


Here is the Park Tools pedal wrench on the flats of an MKS pedal coupler. It is clearly too thick for this application.

Thanks for the reminder not to use a cone wrench on my pedals that ONLY use hex fittings! Period. And reminding me that I am another "no one" with my several pair of MKS-EZ pedals.

Apparently you haven't worked on very many hubs. Over the years I have accumulated every Park cone wrench size from 13mm through 22mm (except 18mm) and have used every one on one hub or another. I even have an older Dura Ace hub that requires two 14mm cone wrenches as the locknuts aren't the usual 17mm hex but flanged nuts with a cone wrench groove. The most needed sizes are 13, 14 and 15 cone wrenches and a 17mm regular box or open end but all the others have been needed.

I'm not sure our positions are mutually exclusive. Running a bike shop? Sure, you'll probably want a full set of cone wrenches. And other specialized tools, like perhaps a bottom bracket shell facing tool, which most casual cyclists won't need to maintain their bike(s). From the tone of the O.P., my assumption is that he's the latter use case.

MKS does make a wrench that is a bit thicker than a cone wrench (3.2mm), but no longer (160mm):

I can't post links, but just search "MKS pedal wrench 173."

That being said, I've used a cone wrench to install EZY pedals without damage to the wrench or pedal flats.

Thought about buying cone wrenches for hub rebuilding, and probably will eventually, but so far no issues using 2 small (4 in) adjustable wrenches, when rebuilding vintage hubs.
Tim

​​​​​​https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/pro...5?category=859

​​​​​​https://www.mkspedal.com/?q=en/product/node/164

Thanks for the links. Just noticed this statement on the MKS product pages for EZY pedals:

"​​​​​​A thin pedal spanner (15 mm wrench flat with under 3.2 mm thickness) is required for initial attachment of the adapter.
For the installation of Ezy Superior, we recommend you to use dedicated MKS original PEDAL SPANNER or thin wheel hub spanner."

Again, I can't post a link, but that statement is near the bottom of MKS pages about EZY pedals. It seems MKS is okay with using cone wrenches to install their pedals.

I have used both and been satisfied. The best set I have is "Sunlite" but if you can afford it "Park" rules the roost. I would advise you to avoid the many Multi wrench types that have two different sizes in one.

Thanks for those links. The MKS tool is about 1.5mm thinner than the Park Tools pedal wrench.
You can make someone very happy by purchasing this tool so you don't have to resort to using a cone wrench!