Determining Chainline
#1
Thread Starter
Full Member

Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 396
Likes: 86
Determining Chainline
I have an old mountain bike which has a triple crank. Being that the chainrings need to be replaced, I am considering a 1 X setup. Measuring from the middle chainring, the chainline is 55mm. How would I calculate the needed chainline for a 1 X setup?
Thanks
Thanks
#2
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,668
Likes: 818
However, are you sure you're measuring correctly? A typical "old mountain bike" has a chainline of 47.5-50mm. What bicycle are we talking about, exactly? Has the bottom bracket and/or crankset ever been replaced? It's possible the wrong BB was previously installed, which resulted in an incorrect chainline for that bike. Here's a good reference.
All About Bicycle Chainline
#4
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,668
Likes: 818
If you can find specs for that bike that say otherwise, then of course go with the published specs. But I'd be really surprised if the correct chainline for that bike isn't the standard mountain triple which is 47.5-50mm. Especially a Giant, from the early 90s.
#5
Thread Starter
Full Member

Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 396
Likes: 86
Is there any reason to believe that the correct chainline for that bike isn't the industry-standard 47.5-50mm, and that somehow, somewhere a mistake was made? Is the bike stock, otherwise? Are you the one that installed the last BB?
If you can find specs for that bike that say otherwise, then of course go with the published specs. But I'd be really surprised if the correct chainline for that bike isn't the standard mountain triple which is 47.5-50mm. Especially a Giant, from the early 90s.
If you can find specs for that bike that say otherwise, then of course go with the published specs. But I'd be really surprised if the correct chainline for that bike isn't the standard mountain triple which is 47.5-50mm. Especially a Giant, from the early 90s.
#6
SE Wis

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 11,549
Likes: 4,329
From: Milwaukee, WI
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
#9
Really Old Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,639
Likes: 1,887
From: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Bikes: 87 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds. 2019 Giant Explore E+3
On paper, you want the center ring to line up perfectly with the center cog of your cassette. (presuming an odd number of cogs, else "split the difference" if an even number)
However, some of us match it to our specific needs.
For example, I tend to use my 3X9 on the middle ring and outer cogs mostly, so I use a slightly longer spindle to better match those cogs.
However, some of us match it to our specific needs.
For example, I tend to use my 3X9 on the middle ring and outer cogs mostly, so I use a slightly longer spindle to better match those cogs.
#10
Senior Member

Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,924
Likes: 589
From: San Jose, CA
Bikes: Too many bikes, too little time to ride
If you're going to replace with external cup BB and modern 2-piece cranks then the BB length is irrelevant. Assuming it's a double crank and you want to run a single ring, most people mount the 1x chainring on the inside of the spider.
#11
Mostly harmless ™
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 4,462
Likes: 243
From: Novi Sad
Bikes: Heavy, with friction shifters
If you run it with a "normal" cassette (i.e. not the ones with over 40T on the largest sprocket), you could go without the 2mm offset (how far inwards you can move the front chainring also also depends on your chainstay length).
How to measure the front and rear chainline
As far as I know, Shimano 1x cranks are designed to provide the wider chainline when used with Shimano Hollowtech II bottom brackets (and, if your frame has British, or "at least" Italian thread, you should be able to source a Shimano Hollowtech II BB).
P.S.
I see going from 3x to a 1x as a step back (1x drivetrain pros and cons).
Relja
#12
Thread Starter
Full Member

Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 396
Likes: 86
Ideally, "by the book," for a 1x, you want the front chainline to be about 2 mm larger (further outwards) compared to your rear chainline.
If you run it with a "normal" cassette (i.e. not the ones with over 40T on the largest sprocket), you could go without the 2mm offset (how far inwards you can move the front chainring also also depends on your chainstay length).
How to measure the front and rear chainline
As far as I know, Shimano 1x cranks are designed to provide the wider chainline when used with Shimano Hollowtech II bottom brackets (and, if your frame has British, or "at least" Italian thread, you should be able to source a Shimano Hollowtech II BB).
P.S.
I see going from 3x to a 1x as a step back (1x drivetrain pros and cons).
Relja
If you run it with a "normal" cassette (i.e. not the ones with over 40T on the largest sprocket), you could go without the 2mm offset (how far inwards you can move the front chainring also also depends on your chainstay length).
How to measure the front and rear chainline
As far as I know, Shimano 1x cranks are designed to provide the wider chainline when used with Shimano Hollowtech II bottom brackets (and, if your frame has British, or "at least" Italian thread, you should be able to source a Shimano Hollowtech II BB).
P.S.
I see going from 3x to a 1x as a step back (1x drivetrain pros and cons).
Relja
#13
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,668
Likes: 818
#15
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,668
Likes: 818
#16
Thread Starter
Full Member

Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 396
Likes: 86
#17
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,668
Likes: 818







