On a Specialized Vita WSD hybrid, I was adjusting the gears and found that I couldn't get the front shifter to go to the big ring. It would shift from small to middle well enough, but when trying to go to the big ring the shifter wouldn't catch. I took the lid off and could see it didn't, but couldn't figure out what could be tightened. Is there some adjustment or lever that switches from 2 speed to 3 speed that needs to be set, or something to tighten? When I did it slowly it would catch but that was on stand and I can imagine that the rider would have trouble out on the road, and she's doing the NYC Century this coming weekend.

On the rare occasions I've had to deal with Shimano triple front shifting over the years, I've been surprised at how dependent successful shifting is on having the cable at higher tension than I think it should need. There are probably a lot of how-to videos on getting it right, but one method might be this:

(1) With the chain on the small ring and the shifter clicked into the position where the cable is slackest, turn the barrel adjuster at the lever until it's a turn or two out from fully tightened into the lever.

(2) Shift from small to middle (as you've succeeded in doing before), click the shifter into its most relaxed position, so to speak, and then take a good bit of the slack out of the cable (using a pair of pliers if necessary) and snug up the pinch bolt.

(3) Shift to small, then middle, then large.

If the cable tension is still too low, the chain won't make it on the large, or won't stay there when you release the lever. If too high, the chain will go on the large but won't make it back to the middle. In either case, follow the steps listed above and try again.

Once it's working almost but not quite perfectly, use the barrel adjuster to get it just right.

That's all from memory. Others may come along with much better info. Or double-check with, e.g., a Park Tools or some other pertinent video.

You might try spraying WD-40 into the shifter, then working the shift lever immediately afterwards.

The front shifter not catching is a common issue with Shmano front derailleurs because the grease gets thick and hard and prevents the full throw of the lever. I try to take the cover off so the mechanism is exposed, and then flood it with a lubricant or degreaser. Keep working it unti the old hard grease loosens up and the shifter should work again.

TBH I detest those shifters. There is just no need for indexing in the front. Friction shifters are all one needs. (And there you have my anti-Shimano, C&V rant for the day.)

Agreed on all points. I mentioned the procedure for getting the cable tension right because that's another idiosyncrasy of Shimano's front indexing. I much prefer Grep Shift's ratcheted-but-not-indexed design for front triples on hybrids.

At least Shimano's flat-bar shifters (probably the ones in question here) are easier to lube than those used for drop bars.

I found this to be true, though not because there was anything wrong with the shifter. I changed my bars and tried to use XTR shifters with Ultegra derailleurs (3 x 9). The rear was fine, but the front had a different pull ratio or something. So I went with a nice friction shifter, and am very satisfied with the result.


Rivendell "Silver Shifter"

just loosen the clamp, spin the shifter so you can see the bottom, remove the tiny screw holding the round-ish cover on, rotate the shift lever a bit, rotate the cover, hope the tab comes loose without breaking it off the cover, then use PB Blaster Penetrant on the Mechanism, begin Exercising the mechanism until the GUMMED UP PAWL decides to start Moving again, Exercise it some more, then Carefully work the cover back on without breaking that hidden tab off, put the tiny screw back in without dropping an losing it, and reposition the shifter on the Handlebar.

IF your shifter is of the type where you can see the stuck pawl, DO NOT over-excurt that Pawl !! The super thin spring may become damaged, and then you'll need a New shifter.

a shimano flat bar brifter (EF-51-style) has TWO tiny screws to lose, but the TOP cover is easier to remove.. with no super-annoying hidden tabs.

Here is a video of how to fix this kind of (very common) problem


You don’t need to flood the shifter with lubricant or solvent. Try to direct your oil application to the holding pawl shaft.

I'll give this a try today to see if it frees up. I did eventually get it to work but it is sticky.

Sounds like cable tension, limit screw, or both. Rule out the shifter by detaching the cable from the dlr, and going through the clicks while pulling tension manually. Doesn't sound like a hard one.

No, cable tension is fine. It is the shifter that isn't catching. If I pull at the cable it shifts. And it shifts from small to middle no problem. When I took the cover off I could see what was happening, I just couldn't figure out how to fix it, but the lube was thick and sticky so that is likely it. And just by looking at it I could make it work but not consistently.

Even better, gunked up Shimano Shifter Lube is a thing. Flush it out, add some fresh lube, and GTG.

I just gave it a squirt of WD40 and it freed right up. I'll let it dry a bit and put some lube in there.

When I do this for customers I'll do a solvent soak and air blow out and work the stuck pawls to both free them up and hopefully dissolve out some of the old now gummy lube. I'll spray apply TriFlow and work that in with motion and air blow out. Then a serious dripping of medium oil (FL Wet is our bench oil) with another round of motion and blow out. Depending on how much oil has remained I might add a few specific drips and end up with a light grease brush dabbed on. Very early on I had a couple of returns because our flush and spray lube while still on the bike all hooked up method wasn't enough to really help the pawl pivots. BTW one can not just work the pawl by rotating it on the pivot shaft but often there's some end play that the pawl can be pushed "sideways" along the pivot shaft. I use a sharpened spoke as my pick/tool. Just be careful if you go deeper and remove the pivot's tiny E clip to not loose it... Andy

(gets out soapbox and ultrasonic cleaner)

What the OP describes is a classic case of an older Shimano shifter gumming up as the grease ages and hardens, as correctly diagnosed by several replies. WD-40, White Lightning Finish Line Clean Streak, PB Blaster, and other solvents can be effective in temporarily fixing the problem. But over time these solvents will evaporate, the grease will re-solidify, and the problem will recur. If it's your own bike, periodically shooting the shifter with solvent should work to keep it working. But for a bike that's going to others, I don't feel all that great about selling or giving away what is in effect a ticking time bomb in terms of shifting.

The only way to permanently fix the problem is to (a) remove the shifter, optionally hurl it against a wall*, and replace it with one that isn't as susceptible to the problem. Or (b) you can remove the shifter and get the gunky grease completely out of it with an ultrasonic cleaner. Which takes time. Lots of time.

Here is my definitive posting on the process:
De-Gunking Balky Shifters - For the Long Haul

(puts away soapbox and ultrasonic cleaner)

* Not recommended, as you might hit someone else or damage something valuable. Plus the shifter might not be able to be cleaned ultrasonically after this treatment.

The first question is one of semantics. What do you mean by "catch?" Is the shift lever not holding tension on the cable after you ratchet it to the next click, or is the chain not being pulled far enough to "catch" onto the next ring? The first would be a problem with the shifter itself. The second would be a problem with the derailleur or the tension of the cable pulling on it.

Of course, if you're really in a hurry, you could take it to a bike shop where they'd fix it in ten minutes as long as there are no broken parts.

A third possibility. The shift lever was not catching on the ratchet advance mechanism internal to the shifter so it wasn't pulling the cable at all. All is good now. A few squirts of WD40 loosened it, and some fresh lube put in its place and it all works again. It holds and shifts pretty cleanly for an indexed front triple.

That's what I meant by the first possibility. Glad you found it. Ride on.