I had a problem with my first road bike in Korea and my korean is poor right now. The LBS made the problem worse. After reading a bunch of posts and buying/borrowing some tools I managed to fix and tune up my 10 speed drivetrain including a chain replacement (I made the LBS pay for). I'd never really worked on a bike before. The bike shifts like butter now. I've learned a lot about bikes sifting through these threads. Thanks Bike Forums I particularly like the mechanics section of this forum.

GZB


Since I'm posting anyway I'll ask a question. I am changing out my pedals and I was thinking it would be a good idea to put a little white grease on the pedal before installing. Is that a good idea? Also, should I just use a little white grease on all the bolts like water cage bolts while I'm at it?

Yeah, everything I've read recommends using a bit of grease on those threaded parts. Some folks might say to use a thread locker instead to prevent loosening via vibration on the bottle cage bolts though...

I've never used white grease - I use cheap automotive grease, but bike-specific grease is probably better.

I use anti-seize on my pedal threads. It holds up better than grease and makes removal easier since the act of pedaling will tend to tighten pedals over time. Grease on bolt threads is always a good idea. Also, remember, the left pedal is reverse thread -- turn clockwise to loosen -- while the right pedal is regular thread -- counterclockwise to loosen.

Bike grease is just grease. Use any good automotive grease on all of your threads.

White lithium grease is pretty thin. I'd lean more toward nice gunky axle grease.

Just use any grease you can find - axle grease or something. Your future-self will thank you!

The bicycle grease that I use appears to be the same as boat trailer wheel bearing grease.

Al

white lithium grease should be just fine for bolts, seatposts, stems etc. thicker stuff, bike specific or otherwise would be reccomended for moving parts like BB and headset bearings.

Yes! That stuff comes in a big tub and costs very little. Bicycle-marked grease comes in little tubes and costs a fortune. Same animal - different cage.

I had some peals installed at my lbs yesterday. i left a can of anti-seize next to the bike and when i got back the apprentice (this guy is my bane) had put them on without using it. I told him I was wanting to brush some on and he told me it was a bad idea b/c it wasn't needed and it would make cleaning my bike harder (i don't know what he meant by that. Anyway, i use these guys a lot and they give me a discount on everything so I just let it go; but this guy is full of **** right? I know I've seen pedals stuck on cranks before.

Edit: he also advised against a light layer of grease on my bottlecage screws saying they might work themselves out. That idea made a little sense though.

The main purpose of grease on threads is to allow you to undo them later on. It won't cause them not to tighten enough to do their job. It's fine to use on bottlecage screws - in fact probably more important there than some other places - you don't want to have a bolt stuck in your frame, because replacing the frame isn't an option, and nor would it be fun trying to twist out or drill out a broken off bolt thread.

The only place where I've seen thread locking fluid e.g. loctite recommended to be used are where the threads/bolts can't be tighted enough without the risk of stripping the thread in the nut. Jockey wheel axel bolts in the rear derailleur are an example.