Creaking bottom bracket?
#1
Thread Starter
bike2mars
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 26
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Bikes: 1986 Nishiki Prestige 52cm
Creaking bottom bracket?
so on my SS bike, the bottom bracket makes a creaking sound (kind of like an old wooden boat) whenever i start pedaling, and continues until i get up to about 15 mph. it seems to only happen when i put force on the left pedal.
i've recently converted this bike to a ss/fixed, andi made sure the chain had absolutely no slack when i installed the wheels. so, should i give the chain some slack? or is something else wrong with bottom bracket?
any help is appreciated, thanks much!
i've recently converted this bike to a ss/fixed, andi made sure the chain had absolutely no slack when i installed the wheels. so, should i give the chain some slack? or is something else wrong with bottom bracket?
any help is appreciated, thanks much!
#2
smitten by саша
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Eugene, OR
Bikes: Salsa La Cruz with Rohloff; mutt parts
did you check the tightness/torque of the crank onto the bb (or the torque of the bb, if it's not the crank)? i don't think this is a chain issue. and given it's the left (non-drive) side, my hunch is that it's the crank.
#3
Thread Starter
bike2mars
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 26
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Bikes: 1986 Nishiki Prestige 52cm
crankset came on the frame which was given to me by a friend. checking the torque is a good idea since he claims the bike has been sitting around for a while. is there some sort of chart that explains how much torque i need to give it or is it universal for all cranks? i have an open model frame, nothing very special.
Last edited by marrzipan; 01-27-10 at 11:58 PM. Reason: better wording
#4
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From: Portland Oregon
Bikes: '82 Giante super challange, 70 Gitane Tour de France, GT Gutterball
If you know the make/model of the crank you should be able to find the torque specs, assuming your talkingabout square taper i've heard 35ftlb(?) I don't use a torque wrench but many will tell you it is nesicary. could also be a lose lockring if its an adjustable bottom bracket
#5
#11
aka Tom Reingold




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From: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
Take the pedals out, grease the threads, and put them back in, tight.
Also, read this: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/creaks.html
Also, read this: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/creaks.html
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
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#12
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From: Santa Fe, New Mexico & San Juan Del Sur, Nicaragua
Bikes: '72 Colnago, 84 Trek 600, 87 Specialized Sirrus, 87 Specialized Rockhopper, '04 Cannondale Optima, '06 Motobecane 600HT, 08 Motobecane Single Speed
I had a similar creak and it turned out to be the Right Side -chainring side- Fixed Cup.
I tightened it w/a big Crescent wrench. This was an old, loose ball type square taper BB.
Cheers
I tightened it w/a big Crescent wrench. This was an old, loose ball type square taper BB.
Cheers
#13
Thread Starter
bike2mars
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 26
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Bikes: 1986 Nishiki Prestige 52cm
You know i did get a new seat post recently! will try that first, although it'll have to wait a while since i blew one of my tires today (bead ripped off the rubber, taking the tube with it). Thanks for this recommendation.
thanks for the chart and the link MudPie and noglider.
ColKrenzer, are you saying you also though it was the left side, but it turned out to be a problem with the drive side?
thanks for the chart and the link MudPie and noglider.
ColKrenzer, are you saying you also though it was the left side, but it turned out to be a problem with the drive side?
#14
aka Tom Reingold




Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 44,160
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From: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
You can't adequately tighten a fixed cup with a crescent wrench.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#15
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Santa Fe, New Mexico & San Juan Del Sur, Nicaragua
Bikes: '72 Colnago, 84 Trek 600, 87 Specialized Sirrus, 87 Specialized Rockhopper, '04 Cannondale Optima, '06 Motobecane 600HT, 08 Motobecane Single Speed
Well, it was one of those things - the squeeek - that just bothered me.
I checked the saddle & seatpost by swapping them with ones known to be quiet. Still squeeeked.
Took off the crankarm - left side, cleaned, greased, torqued back on. Still squeeeked.
Took off the right crankarm and chainrings, cleaned, greased and saw the bearing cup with the two flats on it. I have a 15" crescent wrench I hadn't used in a while and thought "why not"? I fitted the wrench on the two flats and probably applied 75lbs force x 1.25' = about 90ft/lb. The cup turned about 1/8 turn right away w/maybe 20ft/lb, then firmed up quite a bit. Altogether it turned a little less than 1/4 turn. That felt about right.
I put everything back together. NO MORE SQUEEEK even after almost a year. So I don't know, I'm just saying....
This bike is an old Colnago w/ a steel frame. I'd have let up on the torque sooner if it had been Aluminum.
I hope this helps in some way!
Cheers
I checked the saddle & seatpost by swapping them with ones known to be quiet. Still squeeeked.
Took off the crankarm - left side, cleaned, greased, torqued back on. Still squeeeked.
Took off the right crankarm and chainrings, cleaned, greased and saw the bearing cup with the two flats on it. I have a 15" crescent wrench I hadn't used in a while and thought "why not"? I fitted the wrench on the two flats and probably applied 75lbs force x 1.25' = about 90ft/lb. The cup turned about 1/8 turn right away w/maybe 20ft/lb, then firmed up quite a bit. Altogether it turned a little less than 1/4 turn. That felt about right.
I put everything back together. NO MORE SQUEEEK even after almost a year. So I don't know, I'm just saying....
This bike is an old Colnago w/ a steel frame. I'd have let up on the torque sooner if it had been Aluminum.
I hope this helps in some way!
Cheers
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