Squeaky jockey wheels
#1
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From: Topton Pa
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Squeaky jockey wheels
I have an 84 Trek 610 w/ a Shimano 600 SIS R/D. Occasionally the R/D starts squeaking. It doesn't seem to affect performance but, it sounds like a POS. I tried some chain lube on the axle that goes through the jockey wheel but, that seems to only temporarily fix the prob. What is a more permanent solution? Thanks!
#2
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
You didn't say what kind of chain lube you used, but if it solved the problem for a while, I'd venture that oil (not wax or dry lube) will solve it for a longer term. If you want to do a better job, remove one pulley at a time, disassemble, clean, and reassemble with a well oiled bushing (or bearings) and it should run quiet for the next decade.
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Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#3
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From: NY state
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A light oil should quiet them... Tri-Flow works pretty good 
If the jockey wheels are worn enough, it may be a good idea to replace them as well. But if they are in good shape, no reason to replace, just oil them with a good light oil!

If the jockey wheels are worn enough, it may be a good idea to replace them as well. But if they are in good shape, no reason to replace, just oil them with a good light oil!
#5
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Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Syracuse, NY
Bikes: 2008 Novara Randonee - love it. Previous bikes:Motobecane Mirage, 1972 Moto Grand Jubilee (my fave), Jackson Rake 16, 1983 C'dale ST500.
Maybe Tri-flow has changed their formula since the days when I was wrenching, but my experience doing tour support was that when it was contaminated by water it made chains and pulleys squeak. I would second the recommendation of using oil (a waterproof one) or you can use a wet lube made to stand up to harsh conditions.
I'll freely admit that I have not tried nor been exposed at the mechanic level (where one sees hundreds of "experiments" per year) to the more recent lubricant products, so I still use my stock from my wrenching days with great success - Phil Wood tenacious oil for cable housings, freewheels, pulleys, etc, Phil or Finish Line grease for bearings, Finish Line Dry Lube for chain, derailleurs and brakes, and Finish line wet lube in the winter. If I'm doing someone's bike who may not attend to lubing often I'll up the ante to heavier stuff.
I'll freely admit that I have not tried nor been exposed at the mechanic level (where one sees hundreds of "experiments" per year) to the more recent lubricant products, so I still use my stock from my wrenching days with great success - Phil Wood tenacious oil for cable housings, freewheels, pulleys, etc, Phil or Finish Line grease for bearings, Finish Line Dry Lube for chain, derailleurs and brakes, and Finish line wet lube in the winter. If I'm doing someone's bike who may not attend to lubing often I'll up the ante to heavier stuff.
Last edited by cny-bikeman; 05-22-10 at 07:35 AM.
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