I'm just working on my first wheel build, and it appears that I completely messed up the spoke calculator when I ordered the parts. It looks like be the time I tension everything up, the spokes will be sticking several mm past their nipples on the inside.

Now, it's a double walled rim, so everything is recessed...I'm thinking that once I put in the rim tape, nothing will be in contact with these overlong spokes. Is this a reasonable assumption? Can I keep building the wheel, or should I pull all the spokes out and order shorter ones?

I don't really want to take it apart, but it's for my winter bike, so I've lost of time to get it finished if I really have to.

I'd take the wheel apart and get the right length spokes. While there's a possibility that you might get it to work, since you're talking about "several millimeters" almost surely the nipples are going to run out of threads and bottom out and you won't be able to get the wheel tensioned and trued.

As a general rule when you discover a screw up, the sooner you turn around the better.

I agree.

But before you order new spokes make sure the spokes are laced correctly with the correct number of crossings. If 3 cross the first crossing is really close to the hub.

Thanks. Not what I wanted to hear, but probably the right approach.

The lacing is definitely correct. I've done enough spoke replacements to be familiar with the crossing pattern for a typical 3-cross, and that's what I've built. Plus I was being really anal about getting the lacing right.

Priorities are in order when being anal. Before becoming anal over lacing, you should be anal over getting the spoke length correct for the rim and hub your using. I believe the best way to do that is an anal do-it-yourself measuring of the pertinent hub and rim. Then anally repeat the exercise and check the results in several spoke calculators including comparing your hub and rim measurements with multiple databases. Once you believe your chosen spoke length is appropriate proceed to the next most appropriate anal focus.

you can twist the spokes into each other to effectively shorten the length.
PITA to replace broken spokes, but wheels with spokes bent around each other are stronger than conventional wheels.

something like this
https://www.instructables.com/id/Twis...ng---flowers!/

if the wheel allows it, you can also go to a 4 cross. But these would be on 36h or 40h 700c wheels.

Maybe you'll like adding my executable and spreadsheet calc tools to your calculation checklist:

https://www.mrrabbit.net/wheelsbyflemingapplications.php

=8-)

That's what I always do as well. There are A LOT of measurement errors in the various hub & wheel databases out there. Even with the major manufacturers like DT & Wheelsmith. Best way is to measure all the dimensions yourself and plug actual values into the spoke-calculators rather than relying on their built-in tables.

You can get a cheap digital or dial caliper for around $20 and you could have taken correct measurements, and had the right #'s from the get go.

Although...I have the calipers because of Cartridge reloading, they sure come in handy for wheel building, too!

Get the right spokes, and try again. It will be worth it in the end!

see if you can lace it 4x

I can't answer because I don't know how far off you are, not how far the spokes can stick up before running out of thread. Before you throw up your hands in disgust and take it apart, thread one nipple down a spoke and find out how far your spokes can potrude, and compare it to your expected build. I'd say you want a safety margin of at least 1mm, but if it looks close, you have a decision to make, whether to gamble your time in completing the wheel, or start fresh.

No way, the difference in spoke-length between 3x and 4x is usually about 11-12mm. And his hub-flange might be too big to support 4x.