Rear wheel not straight after brake applied?
12-02-10, 04:40 PM
#1
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Rear wheel not straight after brake applied?
The rear wheel was perfectly straight but as soon as I applied brake pressure at the back (in an actual riding situtation), the rear wheel got side way and actually scrubbed the inside of the chain stay. At first I thought I didn't tighten up the QR enough but that wasn't the issue. I tried to release the wheel, put it all the way back in, tighten up the QR and ride again but the problem comes back as soon as I hit the rear brake in an riding situation.
If I hit the rear brake when the bike is parked, the rear wheel will not be side way at all.
Thoughts?
If I hit the rear brake when the bike is parked, the rear wheel will not be side way at all.
Thoughts?
12-02-10, 04:49 PM
#2
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No way to tell over Internet if you are tightening correctly, so here's full explanation with images: https://www.bicyclinglife.com/howto/UseAQuickRelease.htm
This one is specific to slippage, easier than writing it out all over again - https://www.cyclingforums.com/forum/t...ng-rear-skewer
This one is specific to slippage, easier than writing it out all over again - https://www.cyclingforums.com/forum/t...ng-rear-skewer
12-02-10, 05:28 PM
#3
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It probably is the QR that's not tight enough. Do you have horizontal drop outs?
I could pull my wheel if I torqued hard on the cranks, until I got a different skewer. I am not sure why your wheel would only move during braking. Can you crank hard enough to throw the wheel?
I could pull my wheel if I torqued hard on the cranks, until I got a different skewer. I am not sure why your wheel would only move during braking. Can you crank hard enough to throw the wheel?
12-02-10, 08:51 PM
#4
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Start by checking that the axle on each side is flush or below the outer face of the dropout. If it's not then you aren't tightening the proper stuff.
12-02-10, 09:13 PM
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This is what I'm wondering. If dropouts are horizontal the ends of the axle needs to be within the dropout plates. If not the skewer or axle nuts cannot tighten against the dropout plate.
12-02-10, 09:24 PM
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1. Check rear dropout alignment they should be parallel. Tools have a T-Handle appearance.
2. With horizontal dropouts, it's best to use steel quick releases...i.e., alloy quick release aren't really meant for horizontal dropouts. Check for quality serrations on the nut faces of both ends.
3. QR lever should start to sieze at the "pointing outward direction" and you should feel a little "ouch" in the palm once you have finished closing the lever a full 90 degrees.
=8-)
2. With horizontal dropouts, it's best to use steel quick releases...i.e., alloy quick release aren't really meant for horizontal dropouts. Check for quality serrations on the nut faces of both ends.
3. QR lever should start to sieze at the "pointing outward direction" and you should feel a little "ouch" in the palm once you have finished closing the lever a full 90 degrees.
=8-)
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5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
12-02-10, 10:01 PM
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This may seem like an obvious question to many, but, are you operating the Quick Release properly ? Some people mistakenly spin it tight as if it were a large nut. It is a cam and "flips" open and closed.
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12-02-10, 10:03 PM
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I know I tighten the QR properly and in a correct way (not tighten it as a nut, not spin it tight). However I will have to double check the axle like you all mentioned.
12-02-10, 10:07 PM
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What kind of brakes do you have ? Normally wheel slippage happens when stomping hard on the pedals, noit from braking, but maybe disk brakes could cause it ?
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12-02-10, 10:13 PM
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Okay I just try to reproduce the issue when the bike is parked. I push the wheel sideway and the QR/wheel slipped. Now I am sure it has nothing to do w/ the brake, but just the brake make the slippage happens sooner.
It gotta be the QR now. I kinda looked at the QR, it seems normal? Will check again
It gotta be the QR now. I kinda looked at the QR, it seems normal? Will check again
12-03-10, 09:45 AM
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Maybe you are just not tightening it enough.
The outer axle nut often has serrations to improve grip against the frame. Same with the inside of the QR head. You could try a different qr lever and see if it has better grip.
The outer axle nut often has serrations to improve grip against the frame. Same with the inside of the QR head. You could try a different qr lever and see if it has better grip.
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12-03-10, 10:00 AM
#12
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Looks like you are going to need an old steel skewer, which can be tightened down good. You are going to want the enclosed cam.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html
Or this style, which costs a bit more. You can really crank these down.
https://www.competitivecyclist.com/product-components/2011-dt-swiss-rws-quick-release-skewers-4026.406.0.html
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html
Or this style, which costs a bit more. You can really crank these down.
https://www.competitivecyclist.com/product-components/2011-dt-swiss-rws-quick-release-skewers-4026.406.0.html
12-03-10, 11:02 AM
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Have you had the bearings apart on the wheel lately? Or done any work involving removing or changing axle nuts or washers or cones? Because what you are describing (quick release seems tight but does not hold the wheel in place) can be caused by having too much axle sticking out past the axle locknut and not allowing the QR to clamp on the dropout.
If this is the case you must either shorten the axle or re-space the nuts/washers/cones to give the side that is too long a little bit less.
If this is the case you must either shorten the axle or re-space the nuts/washers/cones to give the side that is too long a little bit less.
Last edited by LarDasse74; 12-03-10 at 11:34 AM. Reason: holy **** I can't spell
12-03-10, 11:23 AM
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Have you had the bearins apart ont he wheel lately? Or done any work involving removing or changing axle nuts or washers or coned? Because what you are describing (quick release seems tight but does not old the wheel in place) can be cause by having too much axle sticking out pat the axle locknut and not allowing the QR to clamp on the dropout.
If this is the case you must either shirten the axle or re-space the nuts/washers/cones to give the side that is too long a little bit less.
If this is the case you must either shirten the axle or re-space the nuts/washers/cones to give the side that is too long a little bit less.
I'm guessing someone rebuilt the hub and removed BOTH cone nuts. If you leave one on the axle it acts as a reference point to locate all of the other components in their original location. Or if you a replacing a broken axle or worn out cones you have to align everything again and match the axle length with your replacement.
12-03-10, 01:13 PM
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Have you had the bearins apart ont he wheel lately? Or done any work involving removing or changing axle nuts or washers or coned? Because what you are describing (quick release seems tight but does not old the wheel in place) can be cause by having too much axle sticking out pat the axle locknut and not allowing the QR to clamp on the dropout.
If this is the case you must either shirten the axle or re-space the nuts/washers/cones to give the side that is too long a little bit less.
If this is the case you must either shirten the axle or re-space the nuts/washers/cones to give the side that is too long a little bit less.
its probably not the braking that is causing the problem, but the torque applied when starting from a stop, pulls the drive side forward.
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