Scratched braking surface (pics)
04-13-11 | 06:58 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,172
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From: SoCal T.O.
Bikes: CAAD9-6, 13' Dawes Haymaker 1500
Scratched braking surface (pics)
Hello everybody!
I was riding my bike a couple of days ago at a moderate pace and suddenly my rear wheel slid into a crack in the road. I was going fast enough to not get stuck and fall, but my rear wheel is very scratched up. Unfortunately I have nowhere enough money to get another wheel(I am a 15 year old kid and have very little support from my parents to bike). So I wanted to ask if there is anyway I can repair the scratches or will I have to survive with these scratches? Thanks!
I was riding my bike a couple of days ago at a moderate pace and suddenly my rear wheel slid into a crack in the road. I was going fast enough to not get stuck and fall, but my rear wheel is very scratched up. Unfortunately I have nowhere enough money to get another wheel(I am a 15 year old kid and have very little support from my parents to bike). So I wanted to ask if there is anyway I can repair the scratches or will I have to survive with these scratches? Thanks!
04-13-11 | 07:03 PM
#2
Reppin' the hacks
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 325
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From: North Alabama, or Auburn
Bikes: '07 Diamondback Respones XE-based frankenbike (since deceased). '92 Schwinn Hurricane. '97 Trek 800.
How do you have a caad9 with no parental support?
I wouldn't try to do anything, it'll only make worse... unless you want to take VERY fine sand paper and LIGHTLY take down sharper edges... but do NOT get carried away. And be prepared to replace pads often.
I wouldn't try to do anything, it'll only make worse... unless you want to take VERY fine sand paper and LIGHTLY take down sharper edges... but do NOT get carried away. And be prepared to replace pads often.
04-13-11 | 07:06 PM
#3
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
You can't magically fix a scratch, but that doesn't matter because they won't affect anything. The only problem is if there is a raised burr which can cause your brakes to be grabby.
File off the burr flush to the rim. If you don't have a file you can use sandpaper backed up with a block, or an emery board. BTW- if you do nothing the brakes will wear it smooth eventually.
File off the burr flush to the rim. If you don't have a file you can use sandpaper backed up with a block, or an emery board. BTW- if you do nothing the brakes will wear it smooth eventually.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
04-13-11 | 07:08 PM
#5
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 12,257
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From: A Coffin Called Earth. or Toronto, ON
Bikes: Bianchi, Miyata, Dahon, Rossin
doesn't look terminal.
the braking surface will even out the more you use them anyways.
the braking surface will even out the more you use them anyways.
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Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
04-14-11 | 08:01 AM
#8
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
If you want a new wheel set for another reason, save weight, status, cool factor, or these are trashed and no longer round fine. But there's no reason to scrap these over a scratch. If there's not another reason to replace them keep riding them until there is, regardless of how much money you have.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
04-14-11 | 08:45 AM
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 8,951
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+1. If you use sandpaper, back it up with something hard and flat so that it preferentially removes the raised edges of the scratches.
04-15-11 | 08:12 AM
#12
Recreation Ecologist
Joined: Mar 2008
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Bikes: Schwinn Criss Cross (hybrid beater), Nashbar AT-2 disc MTB
First off, glad you're okay. Any encounter with the pavement that's enough to chew up your steed's metal is generally enough to chew you up too. So primum prima, it is good that a fellow BF rider escaped unscathed. 
Second, sounds like you've just christened your first pair of training wheels (race training, not "stay upright" training).
The advice you've gotten on sanding them down is sound. If you take care of your rig it will take care of you.
Third, check to ensure that the wreck did not knock the wheel out of true. Spin the wheel with your hand and ensure that the rim has no left/right wobble relative to the brake pads, when viewed from above.
Next, check to ensure that the wheel is not out of round. Spin the wheel again and view it from the side. Does the rim stay the same radius from the hub at all points? You're good to go.
Rock on man.
Second, sounds like you've just christened your first pair of training wheels (race training, not "stay upright" training).
The advice you've gotten on sanding them down is sound. If you take care of your rig it will take care of you.
Third, check to ensure that the wreck did not knock the wheel out of true. Spin the wheel with your hand and ensure that the rim has no left/right wobble relative to the brake pads, when viewed from above.
Next, check to ensure that the wheel is not out of round. Spin the wheel again and view it from the side. Does the rim stay the same radius from the hub at all points? You're good to go.
Rock on man.
