Seatpost shims
#1
Thread Starter
THE STUFFED


Joined: Oct 2009
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From: San Francisco, CA
Bikes: R. Sachs Simplicity; EAI Bareknuckle; Madone SLR9 Gen 8
#2
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 30,225
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From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
I've used seatpost shims for extended periods with no ill effects. If anything super thin ones are bad. At 4.4mm difference you'll be OK.
#3
Banned
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
2 bikes, I own, both top dollar, have Machined shims between the ID of the seat tube,
and the OD of the seatpost. they are fine .
USE a British Company, make a 25.0 and a 27.2 seat post,
and a series of shims for all the sizes in between.
and the OD of the seatpost. they are fine .
USE a British Company, make a 25.0 and a 27.2 seat post,
and a series of shims for all the sizes in between.
#5
Normally, a seatpost is a close fit in a seat tube and so is supported over a fairly long length. I the shim is short and only supports the seatpost at the clamp, there will be a lot of stress at that point since the bottom end of the seat tube will be loose in the seat post and free to wobble around. Ideally, the shim should be long enough to support the seatpost in the seat tube over a good length, suggest at least 8 cm.
#6
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Joined: May 2005
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From: SFBay
Bikes: n, I would like n+1
Normally, a seatpost is a close fit in a seat tube and so is supported over a fairly long length. I the shim is short and only supports the seatpost at the clamp, there will be a lot of stress at that point since the bottom end of the seat tube will be loose in the seat post and free to wobble around. Ideally, the shim should be long enough to support the seatpost in the seat tube over a good length, suggest at least 8 cm.
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 5,773
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From: West Yorkshire, United Kingdom
Read this one again if you didn't. Supporting a length of the seat tube is important for much the same reason following "minimum insertion" marks is important. If you look around the forums you'll find a few threads where people didn't follow that guide and separated their frame at the seat post lug.
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 12,257
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From: A Coffin Called Earth. or Toronto, ON
Bikes: Bianchi, Miyata, Dahon, Rossin
you know, most shims are long enough to reach down below the top tube joint.
and most seat tubes are butted anyways, meaning the seat posts don't touch the inside of the seat tube after a certain amount of insertion.
Which is usually just below the joint at the top tube.
and most seat tubes are butted anyways, meaning the seat posts don't touch the inside of the seat tube after a certain amount of insertion.
Which is usually just below the joint at the top tube.
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Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
#10
Banned
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 43,586
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
BEER can shim? better get out the dial caliper..
many frames get damaged by kludging in a too small seat post
then overtightening the frame to compensate.
that is why there are seatposts made in increments to the 2 tenths of a millimeter.
many frames get damaged by kludging in a too small seat post
then overtightening the frame to compensate.
that is why there are seatposts made in increments to the 2 tenths of a millimeter.





