Hi,

I was working on a new bike and I managed to really scratch up the threaded headset locknuts when adjusting it. It was painted black so it doesn't look new anymore. Sheeet.

What do you fellas or fellets use to protect the finish of the threaded headset locknuts when adjusting the headset? I was thinking maybe using plumber's tape?

Thanks

What type of wrench are you using?, if using an adjustable, could see how you are scratching the locknuts, but using a dedicated headset wrench, say Park, this shouldn't give you many issues

Nature of the beast, unless you have the wrench that fits super perfect in there. For the record, everything that is black will scratch easier, with AL parts scratches are almost non visible.

use of thin headset wrench on the top nut will damage them easily. cheaper wrenches are stamped and have poor finishing on the open end, this leads to pressure spots. use the park flare nut style wrench or knipex pliers wrench

Black Sharpie on the damage

Touch Up Paint.

Been there done that. Had an oversized headset on a Santana tandem. Too impatient to order a large wrench for the oversized headset. Bike was my own, so I wasn't screwing with a customers bike. Sharpie hides the worst. Makes it look fine from about a foot away and further.

Just make some scratches on the paint. He won't notice the headset

I'm using the real deal Park tools with the correct size wrench 36.

I used Black Sharpie before, but it doesn't last long and fades.

I used the thick Park tool headset wrench on the top and the thin on the bottom. I am pretty sure I used the right size wrenches as there is no stripping marks(just paint wear), but I will double check on Monday. It took me longer than usual to readjust this headset so I tightened and loosened it about 5-6 times. I had to even start from zero and take the fork out and put it back on just to make sure there was nothing binding on the bearings. I greased the bearings while I did this. Man, bike companies are REALLY STINGY with the grease. After I did this, it took me one-two tries to get it just right.

What brand and type?

This is my preferred wrench for those situations:



Full contact on five of the eight faces on the nut helps prevent marring.

I am using the similar style wrench,specifically designed for shimano 600ex,dura ace head set. Every time it scratches the locknut,not when I rotate it. But when having the wrench fitted to the locknut.

That Park locknut wrench is absolute garbage, it doesn't even come close to fitting tightly on the nut. Several way better alternatives have been made by J.A.Stein, Trek/Wrench force and probably others.

The smaller of the two Wrench force locknut wrenches made: Wrench Force 30mm 32mm Professional Headset Wrench by Snap-On New! Heavy Duty!! | eBay

The 12" Knippex smooth jaw plier wrench is also a popular choice, designed to not damage soft/nice/chrome plumbing fittings. A little pricey though.

Thanks for your information. But isn't 12" Kinippex too large and too heavy to handle when working on headset locknut?

is a 15" adjustable wrench too heavy for you to handle when working on a headset? My 15" adj. wrench weighs 2.9 lbs.

switch to an 18" adjustable wrench, grow some muscles.... it weighs even more.



is the 8 lb. sledge with the bar stock handle i use to threaten my computer too heavy to hoist?

no.

check the wrench faces with a file... remove any burrs... put a bit of masking tape on the nut... you know, the one under the steering stem, not the one behind the handlebars... tighten jam nut... remove tape from nut... quit whining and touch up the scratches you previously created with some paint... no "touch up paint"? spray some spray paint into a suitable small disposable container(the lower portion of a trimmed dixie cup, or a spray can cap, works great!), then dab it into the scratches with a toothpick... let dry... done.

Chromed steel lock nuts can be substituted *, I did this with my new Chris King Headset Decades ago.

I got one from Tange, it* had a sealing O ring to fit around the stem to block water running down inside the steerer tube.







....

If you have an adjustable wrench and you're reasonably sure the faces are parallel, you can use a folded piece of cooking parchment paper around the nut before you clamp the wrench in place. As long as the wrench is clamped tightly onto the nut, the parchment paper will prevent marking the nut.

Take a strip about 3/4" wide and fold it in half so you have 2 thicknesses. If you leave it a little long it's easier to hold while you tighten the wrench.

I'm down with the adjustable wrench. I use an ancient 15" Crescent that is in as-new condition with a layer of aluminum foil between the nut and the wrench flats. This has worked very well for me. I have Park wrenches in the correct sizes, but none of them snug up to the nut as well as the adjustable wrench.

Dean

A good adjustable wrench, a definite yes. But, aluminum foil can scratch or mark anodized surfaces, where parchment paper won't.

I use an adjustable wrench with Gorilla tape applied to the jaws. It works.