I'm going to do my first headset overhaul, on my '82 Trek 613. It seems the locknut is most likely 34mm (I don't have a metric caliper, but used a standard one and converted). The question is, considering this is something I'll only be doing occasionally at most, do I need a headset wrench, or will an adjustable wrench work well enough? I understand how non-adjustable wrenches fit best, but I also believe that for jobs that are only occasional, an adjustable wrench is fine if used properly.

Is there something special about using a headset wrench that I can't get from a 12" adjustable that opens to 1.5"? My 10" Craftsman is currently the largest I have, but doesn't quite open enough.

Many thanks,
Kevin

Go with the headset wrench. Adjustables tend to slip.

Thanks. It seems a 34mm isn't available, so I measured again... 1-3/8", so it must be 35mm. I see a 33/35 on biketoolsetc.com, from Zogs.

+1...I hate using adjustable wrenches for that very reason. There are double ended headset wrenches out there that will give you a bit more utility for your money. An adjustable wrench will work but there is the chance it will slip and muck up the wrench flats of your headset. You may find, in general, that you are more inclined to do maintenance when you have the write tools for the job. Also, often times with a threaded headset you need to loosen and re-tighten until you get the perfect adjustment, this is more even more common when you are learning how to adjust a threaded headset or don't perform this maintenance very often...often the act of tightening the locknut affects the overall adjustment...everytime you stick that adjustable wrench on there is another oportunity to bust a knuckle or ruin your part.

-j

Have any of you seen headsets that use a standard wrench instead of metric? Mine is "Trek micro-adjust", according to Trek's brochure for that year, and the flats measure right on 1-3/8" with my caliper. The 35mm size wrench seems to be rare... the only one I've found is the aforementioned Zogs one. Then again, I had a hell of a time finding a thin 12mm wrench for the brakes on the same bike, and when I did find one, it was in a cone wrench, also from Zogs.

Only the top locknut has wrench flats. The top "cup" - the part that goes just above the ball bearings - has a knurled surface instead. I suppose I'm supposed to hold that with "Channel-Lock" pliers while turning the locknut with the headset wrench, ya? This is a lot like overhauling wheel axle hubs, isn't it? I've gotten pretty good at that.

you sure it's not the more common 36mm?

There are actually grades of adjustable wrench. The $5 special is likely to make a mess, but a decent one -- like the Crescent brand, for instance -- is actually a pretty useful tool. I personally have found that a good adjustable wrench properly used is pretty unlikely to mar a headset -- but I have certainly done my share of damage with cheap, poorly fitting "correct" headset wrenches!

Pretty sure - I have the park BB tool with 36mm flats (HCW-4), and I put that on it just to measure, and it's definitely too big. I measured right on 1-3/8" with my caliper, and that's very close to 35mm. Maybe it's time to get a metric caliper...

I talked to a woman at Menard's. They have both Channel-Lock and Irwin (Vise-Grip) brands that fit the bill, both opening to 1-1/2" (38mm) in the 12" size. Both of these brands are pretty good from my experience, and both wrenches are made in the states, which is my first consideration. Since becoming a tech (my current job) I've learned to shy away from cheap tools, though I don't necessarily buy the absolute most expensive. The Craftsman brand seems to have just about the right balance for me, and the same goes for Park in the bicycle realm.

I figure if such an adjustable works well enough, it would be a good purchase... I can buy one locally instead of having to have it shipped, and can probably use it for other jobs.

I had been oogling over the Milli-Grip https://www.milli-grip.com/welcome.cfm wrench before and was just thinking this might be the time to get one. Unfortunately the larger one opens to only 32mm.

the main problem with adjustable wrenches on headsets is that often they're too thick to hold the adjustable race when the top locknut is present. it helps to be able to get a wrench on both nuts at once.

+1
If I'd had an adjustable wrench thin enough I'd never have bought the specific tool.

You may end up doing that, but it might not be the original intention. Some forks have a groove cut across the threads, and then a washer with an internal tab. The washer goes between cup and locknut, the tab keeps the washer from rotating, which isolates the the cup from the locknut movement, making it possible to torque the locknut with only one tool.

Yes indeed. The basic concept can be found in other places on the bike too, pedals and BB for instance.

I've always used a good quality adjustable and have yet to round off anything. Just make sure the wrench is facing the right way and it is adjusted very snug before turning it.

Most decent quality threaded headsets of that era had 32mm flats on the locknut and threaded cup. An adjustable wrench will work on the locknut but needs care to avoid damaging the flats. You will not be able to fit an adjustable wrench onto the threaded cup, which will make bearing adjustment tricky.

The proper tools are not terribly expensive and will be a good investment if you intend to maintain your bike yourself.

Headset wrenches are for 8 sided nuts so standard wrenches dont do too well.

Yes, this is what I have. I was under the impression that it was normal to have the toothed washer, but then again I'm a beginner at this.

Many thanks for all the help (to everyone).

That style you can do with just an adjustable wrench (and holding the wheel between your knees to give some torque.) Undo the locknut a couple turns, pop up the toothed washer, turn the knurled adjustable race with your fingers, then tighten down again. Because the locknut squeezes the race down to bear on the lower surface of the fork threads it takes a couple tries to hit the right adjustment.

the #1 key to using an adjustable wrench is never believe the adjustment will stay where you set it -- always tighten down each time you put it on the nut before you try turning it.

The keyed washer is not needed and major fail. The only thing it does is slip and take fork threads with it. ALWAYS replace with a non keyed washer.

It sounds like the OP has one of those headsets whose keyed washer has saw-tooth serrations that mate with corresponding sawtooth serrations on the top race, like this:



Not sure how you would get rid of the keyed washer there since the top cap would slip on those teeth, and you can't grab the adjusting race with a wrench to keep it from spinning while you tighten it.

Headset wrenches are expensive, and if you work on many bikes, you can't realistically buy one to fit each headset. I've had to improvise with things like slip-joint pliers. I don't like using pliers where wrenches belong, but it seems to be less of a disaster on big nuts like these compared with smaller ones. Not a disaster at all, really. And maybe my 12" adjustable wrench is a high quality one, because it doesn't slip. Actually, yes, it's at least 20 years old.

Not to mention that putting a keyway in an already thin wall threaded tube creats a very weak seam in the tube.

Use the correct tool.

I just saw this video, wherein the threaded headset overhaul did not require a cup press. Am I getting this right? My bike has a late 90s Ultegra threaded 1" headset which I wish to overhaul. Do I really need the headset cup press?

video link: https://bicycletutor.com/overhaul-threaded-headset/

Yup, mine is almost exactly like that, though mine has a second, non-keyed and non-threaded washer between the locknut and the keyed washer. The section with the flats on the locknut is considerably shorter too. But the top cup and the keyed nut in your picture look like they may be the exact same parts I have.

Can't see the video, but unless you're planning to pop the cups out of the head tube I can't see why you'd need the headset press. That's normally only done if you're replacing the cups or painting the frame or something like that. Unto the stem and the top nuts and the fork will drop right out, giving you ample access to clean, inspect and relube the bearings.

You need the press to remove/install/replace a headset, not to overhaul it. Overhauling involves cleaning it, repacking it with grease, and re-assembling it. You will need the press if you have to replace one or both of the cups that are pressed into the head tube, but that's rarely necessary.